Redding Competition shell holder set has been a good investment for me.
Decisions Decisions (What to Buy ? )
- Thread starter AzMandella
- Start date
Since you haven't gotten started yet stop buying stuff exept powder , primers and bullets at this point... Buy a loading manual , really buy three and read the first part of them.... Then get some junk brass and sit down and practice setting up your dies and resizing properly , load a few dummy rounds WITHOUT PRIMERS OR POWDER so you can see what's going on....
If you don't have some imperial sizing wax for lubing rifle brass , get a can it will last you years.... You don't need to lube pistol brass but you definitely need to lube rifle brass or you will get to practice removing stuck brass out of your dies and it's absolutely no fun.... Remember you're the Safety officer and Reloading is not fast... You never master it you will only get better... Ask questions here if you can't figure something out.... Now it's time to practice on some junk brass , read some manuals and even watch some YouTube videos....
Edit... I use TAC for .223 and what I am getting at is some powders work good for certain calibers and some don't so you don't want to buy a bunch of powder that's not the best for what you need.... For instance TAC flows like water and I like it but it doesn't really do alot of things well , there's better.... I use it but some don't... It's best to ask what powder people are using and make a judgement call on what to stockpile.....
Ohh ya , get a box out now and label it , LATEST AND GREATEST so you can throw the things you just had to buy in it and can give away latter , trust me we all have one.... Figure out what works and stick with it , it's really not rocket surgery.... Stop buying and start loading... Don't be scared of the Dillon just make sure you have a decent digital scale to spot check powder weights , you will be loving it before long but you're doing the right thing learning on a single stage first in my opinion.... That's exactly what I did... TAKE YOUR TIME....
If you don't have some imperial sizing wax for lubing rifle brass , get a can it will last you years.... You don't need to lube pistol brass but you definitely need to lube rifle brass or you will get to practice removing stuck brass out of your dies and it's absolutely no fun.... Remember you're the Safety officer and Reloading is not fast... You never master it you will only get better... Ask questions here if you can't figure something out.... Now it's time to practice on some junk brass , read some manuals and even watch some YouTube videos....
Edit... I use TAC for .223 and what I am getting at is some powders work good for certain calibers and some don't so you don't want to buy a bunch of powder that's not the best for what you need.... For instance TAC flows like water and I like it but it doesn't really do alot of things well , there's better.... I use it but some don't... It's best to ask what powder people are using and make a judgement call on what to stockpile.....
Ohh ya , get a box out now and label it , LATEST AND GREATEST so you can throw the things you just had to buy in it and can give away latter , trust me we all have one.... Figure out what works and stick with it , it's really not rocket surgery.... Stop buying and start loading... Don't be scared of the Dillon just make sure you have a decent digital scale to spot check powder weights , you will be loving it before long but you're doing the right thing learning on a single stage first in my opinion.... That's exactly what I did... TAKE YOUR TIME....
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Thank you for the reply . Just about everything you mentioned is on my list already . I just was looking for info on major purchases I.E Press , Powder Measure etc . As far as cleaning I am going to start with vibratory for price . All case tools are on my list including OAL and Headspace gauges and case tools . Going to go with the LE Wilson trimmer . Calipers I don't use digital . Been in the steel and machine business my whole life . I use Vernier Calipers . No zeroing and never out of whack unless you drop them off the roof . And yes I will work on the single stage press for a while before moving to progressive . Looking mainly at Redding Dies .
Actually except for the Dillon the only thing I have bought is primers and powder and the latest Hornady and Lyman reloading books so far . That's why I started this thread . I like the Hornady book because it has load data for .233 Service Rifle And 5.56 rather than lumping it all together as .223 as the Lyman book does .
So far all I have is:
2lbs CFE pistol
3lbs Accurate 2520 this is listed in all bullet weight charts in the Hornady Book . Keep looking for Varget .
3000 LRP's
2000 CCI SRP
1000 CCI #41 for 5.56
I have read all the begining of both books and have been following Gavin on Ultimate Reloader for a few yrs .
I think I read most if not all inputs from others but I would like to add some things that you may want to consider that I don't think I saw mentioned too much.
A big one is deciding what the purpose of the ammo is, I did see you mentioned for instance service rifle shooting for 223/5.56. But do you want ammo that can win Perry, or something that groups 1 MOA in a good gun from a bench. And will you be shooting to 600 yards? Not many ranges afford that ability and much less critical on reduced distance ranges. In general I find Berger bullets very expensive but often easy to get good accuracy but for my service rifle Sierra old school not pointed SMK's in 52 grain (I get 52 & 53 mixed up, one is flat bottomed, I use that one) and for me TAC (mentioned my another) is really easy to get great loads with.
Similar when considering a lot of the brass prep and brass or bullet improvement type tools, depends on what you need from your ammo. Erik Cortina is a nationally ranked F Class and PRS shooter and he says buy Lapua brass and Berger bullets and just load. If you watch all his videos this isn't really true for bullets but I think his bullet work is only for 1k yards.
When it comes to the 550 for rifle, you can run in full progressive as 550 was designed to do depending on what ammo is for or for more extreme accuracy check 6.5 Guys website on their method using two different shell plates per caliber but getting very accurate ammo.
Lastly, 4 die Lee carbide pistol dies should not be underestimated. They come with a separate taper crimp die which you will want for the cartridges you mentioned as many others have also said. I'm not convinced that for pistols if real accurate loads are important to you that dies are where you want to spend your money. For instance for 9mm & 45 ACP at 50 yards you need really good bullets (e.g.: Nosler 185 45 ACP is a common 50 yard line bullseye choice) and brand new high quality brass. I do find for rifle that for very accurate loads I prefer bushing full length sizing dies so I don't overstress brass and competition seater dies for lowest runout.
I would echo what others have said is don't try to buy so much before you are loading. Depending on volume, you can clean brass by hand, depending on quality of brass you start with, how many times you reload it and what cartridge you load the need to trim may be in the distant future. If you find your initial ammo loaded does what you need you can focus on the right things which is not always tools.
Oh, and start with small quantities and test often as the guns will tell you if you are doing a good job. And for when you don't an inertia hammer style bullet puller is inexpensive.
I hope that is more helpful than confusing.
John.
A big one is deciding what the purpose of the ammo is, I did see you mentioned for instance service rifle shooting for 223/5.56. But do you want ammo that can win Perry, or something that groups 1 MOA in a good gun from a bench. And will you be shooting to 600 yards? Not many ranges afford that ability and much less critical on reduced distance ranges. In general I find Berger bullets very expensive but often easy to get good accuracy but for my service rifle Sierra old school not pointed SMK's in 52 grain (I get 52 & 53 mixed up, one is flat bottomed, I use that one) and for me TAC (mentioned my another) is really easy to get great loads with.
Similar when considering a lot of the brass prep and brass or bullet improvement type tools, depends on what you need from your ammo. Erik Cortina is a nationally ranked F Class and PRS shooter and he says buy Lapua brass and Berger bullets and just load. If you watch all his videos this isn't really true for bullets but I think his bullet work is only for 1k yards.
When it comes to the 550 for rifle, you can run in full progressive as 550 was designed to do depending on what ammo is for or for more extreme accuracy check 6.5 Guys website on their method using two different shell plates per caliber but getting very accurate ammo.
Lastly, 4 die Lee carbide pistol dies should not be underestimated. They come with a separate taper crimp die which you will want for the cartridges you mentioned as many others have also said. I'm not convinced that for pistols if real accurate loads are important to you that dies are where you want to spend your money. For instance for 9mm & 45 ACP at 50 yards you need really good bullets (e.g.: Nosler 185 45 ACP is a common 50 yard line bullseye choice) and brand new high quality brass. I do find for rifle that for very accurate loads I prefer bushing full length sizing dies so I don't overstress brass and competition seater dies for lowest runout.
I would echo what others have said is don't try to buy so much before you are loading. Depending on volume, you can clean brass by hand, depending on quality of brass you start with, how many times you reload it and what cartridge you load the need to trim may be in the distant future. If you find your initial ammo loaded does what you need you can focus on the right things which is not always tools.
Oh, and start with small quantities and test often as the guns will tell you if you are doing a good job. And for when you don't an inertia hammer style bullet puller is inexpensive.
I hope that is more helpful than confusing.
John.
The Sierra manual also has good data for .223/5.56.... you can also download the manual from Ramshot powders for free from Western powder I believe.... Although to me their data tends to lean on the hot side so of course start low and work up to what you want.... I normally just shoot Hornady 55gr FMJs in my ARs but the 69gr Sierra matchkings are hard to beat.... They are a little pricey for plinking.... I try and stay with ball powders for 5.56 simply because they flow through powder throwers like water and stick powders not so much , I use stick powders like IMR 4064 or Varget in large Rifle , Mainly for .308 etc... Unfortunately right now you kinda have to use what you can get... It sucks but will get better in time....
I think I saw were your going to be loading for .380 and I started loading for pistol long before rifle , just be careful the smaller the case the more sensitive to powder charges and seating depths which need to be correct , just check and double check everything and you will be fine... So here's a few things I use constantly and I think you might also....
1. A case prep station... I use the Lyman but there's many others... I find it an absolute must for .223 brass since you mainly reload in bulk , your hands will thank you and it can be used for all calibers...
2. A headspace comparator , I use Hornady and I use it alot especially for setting up shoulder bump on dies... Also use their bullet comparator to determine AOL since no two bullets are the same and measurements with a standered caliper for COAL will be all over the place...
3. A decent single stage press if course.... I use RCBS... There's cheaper , more expensive , better and worse out there...
4. A decent digital and/ or beam scale plus a good set of check weights.... This is were in my opinion spending money on a good one is worth it.... For the Dillon press I use digital and for my large caliber I use a beam to trickle up.... I have to admit I have gotten lazy and love the digital scales.... I have been loading more shotshells for skeet than anything and the digital for spot checking is a must... Both mine are rcbs , once again there's certainly better out there...
5. A GOOD brass trimmer for rifle brass , I hate my Lyman but like my Forester....
These 5 things I use alot... I can't say I would reload without any of them because I found them necessary... Your wallet will determine what you buy or when but be sure and ask before you buy if you're not sure to try and keep that latest and greatest box as empty as possible , these guys love to help....
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ronemus
Gold $$ Contributor
For reloading dies, I like Forster Ultra Micrometer seaters; the standard stem will handle VLDs with no issue, and the metallurgy/temper is right so the stem will not bell and gall the sliding sleeve. The sleeve is a very useful feature for minimizing runout - the case is positively located before the bullet begins to enter the neck.
Hornady sizers are my go-to choice, primarily for the elliptical expanders which work as well as mandrels due to their shape - gentle tapers at either end and a cylindrical center section; this is also one step vs. two for separate sizer and mandrel.
Hornady sizers are my go-to choice, primarily for the elliptical expanders which work as well as mandrels due to their shape - gentle tapers at either end and a cylindrical center section; this is also one step vs. two for separate sizer and mandrel.
Just a couple of thoughts:
Top Grade Ammo by Glen Zediker is a great START for reloading. It was pretty in-depth, yet easy to understand. It’s teachings are applicable for most all ammo, but the author gears it toward .223/5.56. It was a Big help to me when I started.
I have to say, Boyd Allen is a HUGE help and mentor to me. He made Short Range Benchrest very exciting and easy to understand (if there is such a thing). He pointed me in the right direction on many things. If you need help, he (like many on here) is a great friend to have!
Anything 21ST Century, Harrell’s Precision and K&M will be top of the line. (There are others)
Enjoy the world of reloading and “The Rabbit Hole”
Top Grade Ammo by Glen Zediker is a great START for reloading. It was pretty in-depth, yet easy to understand. It’s teachings are applicable for most all ammo, but the author gears it toward .223/5.56. It was a Big help to me when I started.
I have to say, Boyd Allen is a HUGE help and mentor to me. He made Short Range Benchrest very exciting and easy to understand (if there is such a thing). He pointed me in the right direction on many things. If you need help, he (like many on here) is a great friend to have!
Anything 21ST Century, Harrell’s Precision and K&M will be top of the line. (There are others)
Enjoy the world of reloading and “The Rabbit Hole”
Thank you . I found Top Grade Ammo and ordered it .
One of the most helpful tools I acquired was a chronograph.
Ok so I have ordered some stuff
Hornady AOL Gauge and bullet comparator
MEC Marksman SS Press
Lyman Universal Case Preparation Kit
Redding Match-Grade 3BR Powder Measure
Hornady M-1 Case Tumbler
Hornady G3-1500 Digital Powder Scale
Ohaus 5-0-5 scale
Redding #5 Powder Trickler
DAA Primer Flip Tray
Top Grade Ammo by Glen Zediker
Hornady AOL Gauge and bullet comparator
MEC Marksman SS Press
Lyman Universal Case Preparation Kit
Redding Match-Grade 3BR Powder Measure
Hornady M-1 Case Tumbler
Hornady G3-1500 Digital Powder Scale
Ohaus 5-0-5 scale
Redding #5 Powder Trickler
DAA Primer Flip Tray
Top Grade Ammo by Glen Zediker
Did you notice results on target or just on the runout indicator?
garandman
Bolt Gun Bodacious
On target. Both in 6.5 CM and 224 Valkyrie. I got the 6.5CM first, and I went straight to chamber dies for all my precision stuff. 224 V shot tighter groups than 6.5 Cm did.
searcher
Gold $$ Contributor
Echoing some of the others - I'd make my first buy a Hornady (or other brand) headspace measuring tool which affixes to the end of your calipers. The importance of having this tool for accurate head-spacing (translating to accuracy and safety) cannot be understated. I'd forego the Redding powder measure and get a Harrell's. They cost a bit more but you will be glad you did. Reloading can be expensive just because of all the "upgrading" that can occur when stepping up your game. You want to minimize that as much as you can. I have used three hand priming tools, for example - two are trash and my Sinclair is a winner. I haven't used the Frankford Arsenal one - I'd get a lot of feedback first on that gear. As another noted - I also have the Wilson trimmer. Be SURE to get the one with the micrometer dial or you will be soon wanting another upgrade. I love that as verty accurate - but I also own the WTF's (World's Finest Trimmer) in caliber specific model as they are VERY fast - but not quite as accurate as they register off the shoulder instead of from the base of the brass. Still - they are the way to go for doing volumes of .223's, etc. Be wary of case lubes - there are many good and some really BAD lubes. You can't go wrong with RCBS lube when rolling on the pad - or Dillon spray lube when doing high volume. That leads me to a stuck case remover. A cheap one (like RCBS) is inexpensive enough to have on the shelf hoping you will never need to use it. Odds are - you will if you use a cheap lube. Amazing how stuck they can get in that die with so little effort.
Just seating or neck size also?
garandman
Bolt Gun Bodacious
Thus far, Ive always FL sized, and only use LEWs seater. Now that Im getting into 6 Dasher, Im considering neck sizing.
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