Dark walnut stocks.

[Ross308]

Picked up a Kimber 82G awhile back at Camp Perry. It's got real nice figure and grain in the stock but is so dark that it's hard to see unless the light is just right. I know you can use a stain on curly maple and some of the other more exotic wood to heighten the contrast between the figure but this would be just the opposite. I need to lighten the wood to bring out the contrast and then use a clear finish of some kind to protect the finish. Thanks for any info.
Dan R.

 

[Ggmac]

If after stripping you still want it lighter, Ive been using an acid based fence wash from home depot , they have a chlorine based one that doesnt work near as well , I think its a ZEP or ZEB product . Ive had great success with it .
Gary

 

[katokoch]

You may be surprised at what you see after the muddy finish is stripped off.

 

[Ggmac]

Yes after you remove the tinted finish you may like it . But if not try the ZEB deck an fence wash . Just get the one with acid not chlorine , and remember it is acid and if on any bluing it WILL REMOVE IT .

 

[Ross308]

Thanks for the quick replies. Not sure what the finish is on my Kimber 82G. Looks more line an oil finish which shouldn't need any stripping, but I'll check with some of my more savvy club members and find out. Does the process you use just strip the finish off or brighten the wood also? Thanks again for the input.
Dan R.

 

[Ggmac]

Ive done a few 82g ,they have a tinted finish on them . You need to strip the stock first , then wash with lacquer thinner or something that will remove the stripper , I use automotive spray paint thinner from one of the box stores . You use the fence and deck wash after the finish is removed .

 

[xs hedspace]

Formby's Refinisher and 2/0 steel wool, with neoprene gloves on, outside, will take off as much finish as you want. Stop when you like the color, dry for one day, rinse/rub with acetone and 3/0 steelwool or gray skotchbrite, dry for another day, then finish with poly satin for a quick job. Formby's low gloss tung oil finish, like 8 coats, with gray skotchbrite every 2nd coat for an oil finish. The tung oil finish is really a mixture of varnish and tung oil, so it wears better than tru-oil. I add a reddish walnut dye powder to the tung oil, for a traditional 1900s Winchester look. Not a pigmented stain, like the Kimber has now, but a oil soluble dye, so the grain can be seen nicely.

 

[Hollerpoint]

Citristrip from Home Depot. Get the Citristrip afterwash to clean the residue off after along with a stiff bristle scrub brush. Citristrip is the only stripper that removes lacquer, the mud tinting, and also the stain from the wood. Makes easy work of the tougher-than-nails finish from Remington. After you get ALL the stain off (maybe 2 to 3 applications and scrubbings) , rub down with 0000 steel wool and follow up with a rub down from a tack cloth. I like to apply very thin layers of boiled linseed oil with a baby wash rag and rub each layer approx. 30 minutes as if I were hand waxing a car. The more you rub a thin layer the more it shines and sheens.

 

[xs hedspace]

Just remember, boiled linseed is NOT water resistant. Tung oil is. My first stock I finished with Lin-speed, was out hunting in the rain, the finish turned to flypaper in half a day, where my hands were holding it. I use spray satin poly Minwax for my target stocks. 4-5 coats, rub with 0000 steel wool, wax with paste wax for nice soft gloss.