Have been using an AMP annealing machine and it seems like the necks of some cases are darker than normal.
Is it possible for the machine to malfunction and over-anneal?
Is it possible for the machine to malfunction and over-anneal?
That's probably what's happening. Burnt powder residue is getting baked on. ThanksI polish the necks of my brass every time before I anneal with my AMP. The idea is to polish all the muck-muck off so it doesn't get baked on by the annealing.
Don't know if this might be associated with your dark necks, just food for thought
How do you clean them before loading to get the residue off.As a final step before priming, polish them in corn cob media with a dab of metal polish until even the annealing discoloration is removed. Run them long enough and they will shine like new pennies - inside and out! Another benefit of this final polishing will be that seating smoothness will be much improved.
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The usual way . it's a lot easier and safer than polishing after its loaded .How do you clean them before loading to get the residue off.
Have been using an AMP annealing machine and it seems like the necks of some cases are darker than normal.
Is it possible for the machine to malfunction and over-anneal?
Sounds like your torches are adjusted too close to the case neck, back em off a bit and see if the darkening disappears.
How do you clean them before loading to get the residue off.
That's what I do before annealing.I polish the necks of my brass every time before I anneal with my AMP. The idea is to polish all the muck-muck off so it doesn't get baked on by the annealing.
Don't know if this might be associated with your dark necks, just food for thought
If you dont rinse a citrus based polish off real good they turn beautiful shades of purple and blue
I don't have to worry about the darkening of necks. To start I brush inside of neck and steel wool outside, decap without sizing, then I anneal. Next I wet tumble witch removes all coloration, then size because I want the cases to have a slight coating of Imp. wax left on the case to impede any tarnishing. There are many that believe tumbling with stainless steel pins will work harden the cases. That is not true, according to Alex Finnley at AMP. He posted on the FAQ page that the cases are only surface hardened and it does not harden any further when tumbling.After FL sizing, ultrasonic cleaning - usually two 30 minute cycles will almost entirely remove the carbon residue inside the case and the primer pocket residue using Hornady One Shot® Ultrasonic case cleaning solution mixed up at about 2.5% by volume. Annealing is next (AMP), and then corn cob vibratory polishing with a few drops of Flitz Tumbler Media Additive. The tumbling is anywhere from 3 hours to overnight (if I forget to turn it off). Overnight will definitely polish off the discoloration from annealing but this is purely cosmetic. The real benefit in my mind is the smoothness of the bullet seating step. The polishing with the Flitz additive gets rid of the "grabbiness" from just ultrasonic cleaning alone.
Next I wet tumble witch removes all coloration, then size because I want the cases to have a slight coating of Imp. wax left on the case to impede any tarnishing. There are many that believe tumbling with stainless steel pins will work harden the cases. That is not true, according to Alex Finnley at AMP. He posted on the FAQ page that the cases are only surface hardened and it does not harden any further when tumbling.