Damaged stock pillars

[DShortt]

New to me problem and not sure what is the best way to correct it. Looking for suggestions.

Savage Model 12 with the thumb hole laminated stock. I purchased this rifle used and apparently the action screws were loose enough at some point that the action has done a considerable amount of rubbing on the factory pillars. Enough that I think the pillars are no longer flat and probably not even any longer if they ever were. What is a good way to correct this? Mill the pillars off flat and bed? Remove the pillars and start fresh? Leave as is and bed? Or something else?
Thanks for looking.

 

[AlNyhus]

New pillars and proper bedding. On the rear, I notch the sear and keep the pillar full diameter rather than notching the pillar.

There's more but that's the basics.

 

[DShortt]

New pillars and proper bedding. On the rear, I notch the sear and keep the pillar full diameter rather than notching the pillar.

Thank you for the suggestion. I never cared for the partial pillar but never considered that idea.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I float the tang on a savage when i do one. I like my pillars below the epoxy anyway so just re-bed it

 

[AlNyhus]

With a notched sear, I fit a .625 pillar in the rear. Since you don't want to bed the tang, the .625 pillar makes a big difference.

 

[DShortt]

I float the tang on a savage when i do one. I like my pillars below the epoxy anyway so just re-bed it

Interesting. Do you find that a particular bedding compound works better for this? The reason I ask is the bedding compound has to resist crush from the action screw pressure, correct?
I thought conventional wisdom was to have the pillars directly contact the action but I've not the experience to know if that's necessary let alone best.
I do understand that a floating tang on a Savage is the widely if not exclusively recommended method.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Interesting. Do you find that a particular bedding compound works better for this? The reason I ask is the bedding compound has to resist crush from the action screw pressure, correct?
I thought conventional wisdom was to have the pillars directly contact the action but I've not the experience to know if that's necessary let alone best.
I do understand that a floating tang on a Savage is the widely if not exclusively recommended method.

I use jb weld or marine tex. And the reason you dont expose the pillars is a year from now any epoxy out there will shrink and the action will only be sitting on the pillars.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Heres one bc’z painted. Once i got it back i scuffed it up and did a final skim bed to clean it all up. If you look close inside the front hole you can see the pillar in there about 1/4” deep. Im not a savage guy but this one turned out nice. That was a square tang BR action mcmillan stock modified for the savage rear tang. It has about exactly .091 gap between the action and stock behind the trigger

 

[AlNyhus]

Like Dusty, I keep a significant thickness of bedding compound over the tops of the pillars. This is a laminated Savage. The mag well was filled with a piece of aluminum and a SSS single shot adapter epoxied into the action.

Just some ideas for 'ya.

Good shootin' -Al

 

[DShortt]

Thank you for the photos, that helps a whole lot. Much appreciated guys!

 

[natdscott]

I float the tang on a savage when i do one. I like my pillars below the epoxy anyway so just re-bed it

You should just pour pillars.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

You should just pour pillars.

If you look close the pillar in front of the trigger, the middle one, is poured. The stock is hollow on the front screw area so that wouldnt work so its aluminum

 

[Bc'z]

If you look close the pillar in front of the trigger, the middle one, is poured. The stock is hollow on the front screw area so that wouldnt work so its aluminum

Poured with 3m panel bonder, unless you dug it out and replaced it.
That was a fun paint job

 

[rebeltex]

OK, I'll ask the dumb question...
why even use a pillar if the action does not rest on it?

 

[Alex Wheeler]

OK, I'll ask the dumb question...
why even use a pillar if the action does not rest on it?

So you do not compress or crush the stock. Some stocks dont even need pilars. But some you would deystroy the first time you tightened up the screws

 

[Dusty Stevens]

OK, I'll ask the dumb question...
why even use a pillar if the action does not rest on it?

No dumb questions. Like alex said youd just crush that stock. Its made for a glued in lv rifle. You need that few ounces elsewhere

 

[rebeltex]

Thanks Alex and Dusty
So, the pillar supports the bedding around and partially over the pillar and saves weight doing so?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Thanks Alex and Dusty
So, the pillar supports the bedding around and partially over the pillar and saves weight doing so?

No it saves weight not using screws and pillars. Putting the bedding over pillars keeps your action in full contact after the bedding shrinks. If the pillars are exposed thats not the case

 

[DShortt]

So you are talking about glue-ins primarily?

No it saves weight not using screws and pillars. Putting the bedding over pillars keeps your action in full contact after the bedding shrinks. If the pillars are exposed thats not the case

Now I'm a bit confused. Are you saying don't use pillars and pour everything with bedding compound?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

So you are talking about glue-ins primarily?

Now I'm a bit confused. Are you saying don't use pillars and pour everything with bedding compound?

He asked why use pillars. Its so we dont crush the stock.
If we’re saving weight we dont use pillars or screws period, thats what that stock was designed for.
Very rarely pour pillars. I just use aluminum or similar if i use a pillar.