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Crazy idea?

Ok be gentle... ;)

But could you use the exact same chamber reamer that cut your chamber to remove the carbon ring?

Say that you tapped the end of the reamer 8/32" and attached a short chamber cleaning rod and gently turned it in the chamber with a fine layer of oil on the reamer? Would that scrape out the carbon ring in one twist?

Too risky, won't work?

Thanks
 
Not a crazy idea. It's actually a very good one, however I would strongly advise against it. Here's why; a finish reamer has cutting edges on each flute which have very little to no margin which allows the cutting edge to do it's job very efficiently. Because of this, you would very likely remove some amount of metal as you drove the cutting flutes through the carbon ring. Even if you have a very special touch and could somehow gauge your pressure and pull, you would at the very lease install scratches in the chamber that I am sure you don't want there.

Also, you could have a finish reamer made with wide margins so that the cutting edge will not cut, however, the reamer material is a far sight harder than the barrel steel, again resulting in scratches.


Just some friendly advise...don't do it.

JS
 
But could you use the exact same chamber reamer that cut your chamber to remove the carbon ring?

Isn't that a bit extreme? Why take a chance on scratching your chamber.

You could just spray some brake cleaner down there after you're finished shooting and while the barrel is still warm. Let the cleaner soften up the ring and when you get home just clean as usual. If you're really determined you could wrap a patch around a bore mop and add some JB bore cleaner and just clean the throat with it.
 
each time you finish shooting and are going to pause a while, take a plastic brush with Bore Tech Carbon Remover on it, spin around and around in the neck of the chamber, let it sit a little bit and patch it out. If it never gets a hold on your barrel, you will never have a problem.
 
Too risky for sure. Better to use something to soften up any carbon after a match (I use regular ATF transmission fluid) then deal with it a few hours (sometimes a day or two) later with more appropriate tools. On really bad deposits I've used an oversize bronze bore brush (size larger than your bore works great in the neck) on a pistol cleaning rod. If that's not enough, chuck it in a variable-speed drill but wrap a patch around the brush first to trap the carbon that's removed.
 
too risky, like shotgunning a housefly. somebody suggested sharpening? the end of an aluminum arrow shaft and twisting it at the end of the chamber. hoppes sell a VERY stiff brush made of a plastic material and if you buy one slightly larger than caliber (a 6mm for a 22 cal) coat it with a jb/kroil paste, insert into chamber until you feel it going into the neck portion and twist for a minute or so, patch out and if you have one, borescope. an estalished carbon ring is a beast, so out comes the b&d drill and the ring goes away.
 
I would not use the reamer for many of the reasons noted above.

If your have a lot of problems with a carbon ring then your cutting your brass back to far. Do you know how to make a chamber depth gauge.

How about brush and some windex or some of the reputable carbon removing agents you can buy at the gun store. You could also measure the depth of your chamber put a brush in that distance and rotate it.
 
Peter: I agree with everything you said, except the word "Windex". Windex is basically water. I would never deliberately put water into any of my barrels.

I keep my case mouth length's very close to the chamber mouths, after measuring each and every one & recording that number, so the infamous carbon ring(s) never form.

Before I began doing that, when a ring of carbon would form, it was easily removed with a bronze brush on a short non-rotating pistol cleaning rod, with IOSSO or JB bore paste, turning clockwise. All results verified with my borescope.

There is no way I'd ever run one of my chambering reamers into the chamber & begin turning it.
 
You really did have a good question. I have heard much worse ideas. Don't ever be afraid to ask. We won't mock you it really is good that you did ask.
Good luck on your carbon removal. :)
 
thefitter said:
Ok be gentle... ;)

But could you use the exact same chamber reamer that cut your chamber to remove the carbon ring?

Give Dave Kiff a call at Pacific Tool and Gauge: http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/ If I remember corectly, I believe he has a tool that some of the top short-range benchrest shooters are using specifically for that purpose. Give him a call.
 
Would not running the reamer into the chamber and gently turning it also risk the chance of it cutting and removing metal from the freebore length and the all critical leade? Not to mention having the exact proper size pilot to insure not putting cross reamer marks on the surface of the lands?

After all the work and expense of having your gunsmith cut as perfect chamber as possible, you're now going to run a reamer into the chamber and turn it? I'll let somebody else do that "experiment". Good luck with your efforts.
 
Why not buy a piece of brass flat stock, 1/4" or 3/8" at the hardware store, and file the ends to make a blade that fits the neck tightly - no worries about hurting the chamber.
 
Wonder if JGS would cut a brass neck reamer only from a custom reamer print? Hypothesising is fun for the whole family!! ;D
 

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