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Correct Scope Base Bedding

teele1

My question of the the day is What is the correct method to bed a scope base.
I have the correct 1 pc. base, bottom of the base is scuffed up and cleaned
the Action is clean and has release agent applied, Kiwi wax, as well as the screws
JB Quick mixed up and applied to the base, not to plug the screw holes,
the base set upon the receiver and screws started in the receiver.

Which screws get tightened first, which get tightened to snug, which get tightened to spec before
letting the epoxy cure? Thank you for your time
 
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I have never bedded a scope base. So w that disclaimer:
Your prep seems to be well thought out. The only suggestion which you probably already are aware of is to start in the middle and work your way out toward each end.
As far as how many torquing steps, I'll guess two, maybe 3.
Will be following this w baited torque wrench - :D
 
Start the screws for alignment don't tighten then put a rubber band mid way between the front and rear contact point?????
 
On a one piece base I just used the epoxy only on the rear portion prepped pretty much like you did and then just snugged the screws down, not tight but just enough to pull it down into the epoxy but not enough that it could start to bend the rail.
 
First thing, check your base to make sure it is flat and straight. Nearly every base I've bought had some sort of twist, bend or bow to it. I only use steel 1 piece picatinny bases, so I straighten them as best I can.

Before I bed them, I will put it on the rifle with a straight edge laying on top and tighten down the screws to see which order of tightening gives me the least upset of the base. Once that is determined then I proceed to bedding. Chances are you will have hard contact in a couple spots and epoxy filling in the rest. This is what you want. No stress bending the base to fit the action and keeping it straight.
 
wkdickinson said:
The process is explained here very well:

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Bed-A-Scope-Base-Remington-M700-308-AAC-/
Click to expand...
Thanks, a really excellent & detailed article - I book marked it!

Tony Boyer's book "The Book of Rifle Accuracy" also gives a good explanation of bedding a scope base for bench rifles. He goes further into details on how to get your scope mounted with the reticle optically centered within the windage/elevation adjustments with the rifle zeroed.

BTW: If you are real nit-picky (like I can be sometimes) add a drop or two of black acrylic dye to the epoxy & the bedding will dry invisible to the eye.
 
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“Best”, I can’t say but it is a very good way that produces excellent results.
This is my limited experience speaking.
 
Murphy Precision also has instructions on their website.
It’s whats needed and how to.

Hope this helps Waverly
 
My preferred actions have an integral picatinny rail milled above the action.

Obviously, that is not coming off, and actually adds to the rigidity of the action.

Accepting as I do that a picatinny rail will never be obsolete, and an integral rail is superior, - then the next closest option for an action like a 700 is to permanently cement and screw a wide, steel base to the action.

I use the Nightforce steel rail now because it is wider at the base than the Badger, by a lot. Both have an integral abutment lug contacting the action to absorb recoil, and both extend in front of the action.

I do remove all traces of oil but I don’t scuff the base or the action. I don’t think it’s needed as I have tested JB on coins and such. I make certain there could be no voids, and all four screws float in the base as I lower it to the action and then torque the screws a little at a time in rotation. There’s a lot of cleanup.

Then I don’t shoot them until they have cured for several days. The cement creates a physical moisture block.
 
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IMO
I don’t see a need to bed one piece bases on most custom tubular or flat actions. But if it makes you feel good - do it.
Many factory actions have two different levels for the scope bases. It is possible that many one piece bases will not set flat on both surfaces. It isn’t anyone’s fault - tolerances in the manufacturing of the action and the base can cause gaps. If the base is used “as is” then the scope is put in a bind - bent. So then there is a need for it to be bedded so it is sitting solid and straight. If you tighten only the front screws and there is a gap under the rear. Then the rear needs to be bedded to fill the gap. Same is true if you tighten the rear and the front has a gap - the front needs bedding material.
Two piece bases are more work. You need the rings and a bar mounted to the bases. Again install screws in only one base and find the gap that needs to be filled. Bed with the rings and bar attached.
Third reason to bed - kicking the scope to look up or down. Do it yourself 20 MOA base. To make a 20moa base, I cut a small strip off my wife’s credit card. I put a lot of compound on the bottom side of the base. I tighten only the front screw and the rear screw (pinching the shim). The other screws are just there to fill the holes.
Any questions?
 
FYI I have long 6-48 screws to start the process. Then when gue has been pressed out, I use the proper length screw in the front hole. Most of the rest are pass through holes. Again only tighten two screws.
If they get stuck - put an iron one top till it gets to 200 degrees F.
 
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