Coroplast targets for shotmarkers?

[MikeMcCasland]

Hey Guys,

How are yall getting coroplast targets with the F-Class centers on them? Local sign shops, or is there a preferred online retailer?

For those of you that have sourced them (either for personal use, or club use), did they make you submit a large minimum order?

I figure ~9 sheets varied between 300, 600, 1000 yard faces will last me quite a while (I don't often shoot out the x-ring).

Any suggestions, or just start calling up local sign shops?

Thanks,
Mike

Edit: Also, is there a generic file type they want for sign design? If someone happens to have it already with those targets, it'd be pretty cool if you could share it.

 

[F Class John]

I've been using them for nearly two years. One set of corplast targets (I have 14 Shotmarkers) lasts about a year (that's nearly 40,000 rds a year). We do an offset zero so we have a gorgeous hole up on the 7 ring but the centers stay true. I have a local sign shop that I know from business and he does them PLUS I have them print '9 ring' stickers so we can clean up the centers periodically. I may actually print 8 ring stickers this year and just never actually replace the corplast. There's really no need to replace them.

Best part of using this method is that we NEVER have to worry about shooting in wind, rain or snow which we do all the time. We shoot on them 63 times a year (25rds for an average of 28 shooters each time) no matter the weather because we have a covered firing point.

 

[Oleg S]

I've been using them for nearly two years. One set of corplast targets (I have 14 Shotmarkers) lasts about a year (that's nearly 40,000 rds a year). We do an offset zero so we have a gorgeous hole up on the 7 ring but the centers stay true. I have a local sign shop that I know from business and he does them PLUS I have them print '9 ring' stickers so we can clean up the centers periodically. I may actually print 8 ring stickers this year and just never actually replace the corplast. There's really no need to replace them.

Best part of using this method is that we NEVER have to worry about shooting in wind, rain or snow which we do all the time. We shoot on them 63 times a year (25rds for an average of 28 shooters each time) no matter the weather because we have a covered firing point.

Can you please post some pictures of your targets?
Thank you

 

[F Class John]

Can you please post some pictures of your targets?
Thank you

Sure. I’ll take some pics Tuesday when I’m there.

 

[Stumpy1]

Hi Mike,
We use a combination of corroplast with standard centers cut from paper targets glued on.
The glue we use is 3M 90 contact adhesive

3M 17.6 oz. Hi-Strength 90 Contact Adhesive-90-24VOC40 - The Home Depot

3M Spray Adhesive 90 is an excellent adhesive for securely bonding decorative laminates and wood moldings to tables, cabinets, shelving and furniture. Bonds metal kick plates to doors and furniture. Bonds

www.homedepot.com

https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-17-6-fl-oz-Bonding-Clear-Multipurpose-Adhesive/1160531

It's not too hard to cut out the black of the target, spray it, then attach to the corroplast.
Works well for repairs too.

Frank

 

[LHSmith]

I do range maintenance at 2 gun clubs. Best source for coroplast for target backers I have found is : beacongraphics.com. I order them in boxes of 100 18 x 24 x 4 mm thick. These are white blanks that are used solely as backers for printed targets.
Edit- they have a wide array of sizes and thicknesses in stock.

 

[DaveTooley]

If you have a Home Depot they can get it for you in various thicknesses. That's where I got some double layer 3/8" thick sheets.

 

[MikeMcCasland]

Thanks guys! When ordering, did yall just give them a full size F-Class target for each distance, or did you just give them the dimensions?

 

[DaveTooley]

At HD you buy it by the sheet.

 

[Twicepop]

I go to Lowes and buy it by the sheet.

 

[DRNewcomb]

The club I shoot at uses corrugated plastic (i.e. Coroplast) as a backer for their Shotmarker targets. I don't know where they bought it but I can find out if you like. It lasts very well and is dimensionally stable, unlike cardboard.

 

[PatMiles]

Take a few minutes and call local plastics shops. Here in Albuquerque, Home Depot gets $21.00 a sheet (4'x8') while Lowes sells the same 4'x8' sheet for $24.00. Port Plastics sells the 4'x8' sheet for $16.00. Let your fingers do the walking and save some $$$$'s.

 

[NZ_Fclass]

Most printers can handle the common file formats, but to be sure of accuracy, I would suggest .pdf, as this can be handled by Mac or PC. Does the NRA or IFCRA have a template?

My club has the targets printed on vinyl and stuck onto a corplast type backer. They last a season out in the weather.

 

[MikeMcCasland]

Thanks guys, as always. I'll probably just get the blank sheets and glue a full size target on them, then replace centers as they're shot out.

I do like the fancy printed coroplast, but based on some PMs I received, you'll be up near the price of a shotmarker once you get targets for 300,500,600,1000 printed.

I will say the shotmarkers make non-match shooting enjoyable again. I had to blow off some loaded ammo to prep for our upcoming state LR match, and shot a few practice matches with an old barrel. Two hours, two guns, and 6x 20rd strings for record....with only one trip down range...you can't beat that.

 

[F Class John]

Whatever you do, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting comfortable with inducing an offset to preserve your centers for aiming points. Once your shooters get used to it you'll wonder how you shot at E-targets without it. Saves you tons of time, energy and cost when you get it figured out.

 

[PatMiles]

I do range maintenance at 2 gun clubs. Best source for coroplast for target backers I have found is : beacongraphics.com. I order them in boxes of 100 18 x 24 x 4 mm thick. These are white blanks that are used solely as backers for printed targets.
Edit- they have a wide array of sizes and thicknesses in stock.

Are the 18"x24" pieces you order just blank white pieces you then use as repair sections?

 

[LHSmith]

Are the 18"x24" pieces you order just blank white pieces you then use as repair sections?

This is for short range rifle use. I sized my backers to accomodate IBS 100 yd and 200 yd score targets. Essentially I don't repair sections, I replace them as they cause the targets to tear because @ $1.30/ pc. they are as cheap as anything else out there that is weatherproof. I used to cut up 4x8 sheets of 1/2" homosote like the IBS uses but that became unaffordable and as a result nobody carries it anymore. It was the best at making clean bullet holes, lasted a whole season, but not if left to weather.
I do have 1/2" 4'x6' coroplast that was an old real estate sign for a 500 yd range, I have not had to "repair" sections as the guys are pretty good at alternating the bull centers. That backer has been in place over 10 years and is none the worse for wear- impressed on how well it's holding up - but it's as rigid as 1/2" cdx.

 

[PatMiles]

Whatever you do, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting comfortable with inducing an offset to preserve your centers for aiming points. Once your shooters get used to it you'll wonder how you shot at E-targets without it. Saves you tons of time, energy and cost when you get it figured out.

Do you induce the offset by way of calibration in the system?

 

[F Class John]

Do you induce the offset by way of calibration in the system?

Yes. You mess with Y-axis. Do the math in Centimeters that you want the offset and either make it a positive number Which will put the actual impact underneath the center of the target or make it a negative number and it will be above the center of the target.

 

[PatMiles]

Yes. You mess with Y-axis. Do the math in Centimeters that you want the offset and either make it a positive number Which will put the actual impact underneath the center of the target or make it a negative number and it will be above the center of the target.

Can the adjustments be made at home after the shooting when a target be studied and measured more closely?