Copper wire rings for chuck jaws

[Lucky Shooter]

I've seen pictures of rings others here have made that looked to be a perfect shape.

Mine look more like a wildcat's rear end stitched up with a grape vine. I've kinda
given up on the rings and use short segments of wire----not the easiest thing to handle.

Anybody here willing to describe how to make these better rings ?

Thanks for any info,

A. Weldy

 

[WayneShaw]

It really doesn't have to look good to work. I use 10 gauge wire cut long enough to go around the barrel with a small gap. Put it in the chuck with the gap between jaws then tighten down on the barrel and the wire will conform. Done once, it's easy.

 

[ckaberna]

“Wildcats rear end” LoL
No grapevines involved but not perfect

 

[ebb]

Find a piece of pipe with the OD the size of the ID you want the copper wire circle to be when completed. Out at the end of the pipe take a pair of vice grips and clamp the wire securely to the pipe and wrap the wire around the pipe. You may be able to wrap the wire with your hands or you may need a big pair of channel locks. Cut as needed.

 

[JLittle]

If you want it to look good you’ll have some waste. Take a piece long enough to work with like a foot or two. Bend it around the barrel in the middle of the wire then cut the ends off. Now you can keep making them till the wire is too short to handle.

 

[TAJ45]

Allen, send me your addy and l will fix you up like l did Keith.

 

[Lucky Shooter]

Allen, send me your addy and l will fix you up like l did Keith.

Thanks Tom----will PM you the stuff.

 

[PatMiles]

Take the jaws out of the chuck, mark them so they go back in the same location, then you can put the jaws in a vise. Makes the job MUCH easier.

 

[Phillip Crowe]

I was using this method until I put an indicator back on the barrel after turning or cutting. It would be dialed it very close originally, then when checked again it had moved. I guessed because of the softness of the copper wire. Now just use a piece of 26ga steel bent in an L. Long end goes between barrel and chuck jaw. Once the barrel is dialed in, it stays that way.

 

[ELR LVR]

1.
Take yourself 4 dollars
go to Lowes
and buy 2 feet of 8 gauge solid copper wire from the electrical section
it will be on rolls, they have to cut it to length for you
be sure to hit it with a torch to anneal it before forming it around your part
no need to anneal it after that unless you want to reform it
let it work harden from then on from repeated clamping so you don't get vibration or loosening of the part and your barrel slipping while threading.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
2. Get yourself some brass tags
Cut them into strips with sheetmetal scissors for the flat parts
If you need some brass tags let me know,
I got a few leftover from riveting my business name to the stuff I used to make
I'll send you a few for shipping cost

 

[7887mm08]

I was using this method until I put an indicator back on the barrel after turning or cutting. It would be dialed it very close originally, then when checked again it had moved. I guessed because of the softness of the copper wire. Now just use a piece of 26ga steel bent in an L. Long end goes between barrel and chuck jaw. Once the barrel is dialed in, it stays that way.

I use pieces of brass or copper shim stock the same way.

 

[Chubbs]

What sort of finish on the barrels are these copper rings used on ?