Cooper rifle bolt disassembly instructions

[BadSquirrel]

Anyone have info on how to disassemble a Cooper model 38 bolt for cleaning? My search attempts have not been successful. I had a couple light, no fire, primer strikes on CCI 450’s so thought might help to clean and lube the bolt/firing pin. Second attempt on the misfired rounds resulted in successful detonation. Rifle hadn’t been used for several years before I got it.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Kleinendorst makes a tool most likely. Mine says for model 22, 52, and 54. Mines a 54 repeater and it works great.

 

[BadSquirrel]

Does the bolt on a Cooper model 38 disassemble in the same way as a Remington? I haven’t been able to find any videos of it being done.

 

[JohnHenry]

Does the bolt on a Cooper model 38 disassemble in the same way as a Remington? I haven’t been able to find any videos of it being done.

Yes and a link to the tool is attached. Unfortunately out of stock.

Kleinendorst Cooper, Kimber Bolt Disassembly Tool

The Kleinendorst Bolt Disassembly Tool enables the operator to easily disassemble a firearm bolt for routine cleaning and other maintenance. The tool...

www.midwayusa.com

 

[bluesako]

de cock the bolt and unscrew just like a remmy

 

[BadSquirrel]

Thanks. I must have ordered the last one they had in stock.

 

[dsandfort]

Don't recall it being like a Remington at all. I do recall that after you de-cock the bolt (padded vise works well):
1. tighten the set screw in the hole on the side of the bolt shroud. Hopefully it's still there. It takes a 1/16" allen. You tighten it to keep the firing pin from moving when you,
2. remove the flat blade screw from the rear of the bolt.
3. loosen the 1/16" set screw but don't loose it.

Everything should un-screw now.

For re-assembly, I use the tiniest bit of licktite on both screws. You need to tighten the set screw to kip the firing pin from spinning when you assemble.

Re-cock in the vise

 

[dsandfort]

oh, and you won't need the tool you ordered (unless you have some Remingtons)

 

[BadSquirrel]

Well that sounds more involved. Anyone have a view video of the process they could share?

 

[dsandfort]

I suppose needing 2 tools is more involved than needing 1. It's pretty simple.
Your light strikes could be a broken spring or a worn out one. I once had a similar problem and called Cooper. They sent me a new one on their dime. Bet that won't be the case today. The old spring was a good 1/2" shorter than the new on. Just worn out.
If your bolt has not been maintained it can be pretty gunked and might require putting the bolt in the vise and using a strap wrench to unscrew the shroud.You can make a strap wrench using most anything but I find wet leather works great.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Well that sounds more involved. Anyone have a view video of the process they could share?

I’m not sure if you can pull against a square table edge and put a dime in there like a Remington, haven’t even thought about it.

 

[BadSquirrel]

Don't recall it being like a Remington at all. I do recall that after you de-cock the bolt (padded vise works well):
1. tighten the set screw in the hole on the side of the bolt shroud. Hopefully it's still there. It takes a 1/16" allen. You tighten it to keep the firing pin from moving when you,
2. remove the flat blade screw from the rear of the bolt.
3. loosen the 1/16" set screw but don't loose it.

Everything should un-screw now.

For re-assembly, I use the tiniest bit of licktite on both screws. You need to tighten the set screw to kip the firing pin from spinning when you assemble.

Re-cock in the vise

Now that I've had the chance to take a close look at the bolt, it doesn't look that difficult. I can decock and re-cock the bolt in a padded vice without any tools other than a shoestring. I see the set screw you mentioned too. Do I understand this correctly,

Tighten the set screw, then remove the flat blade screw on end of bolt. Then unscrew the rear of bolt? Is that correct. Do I need to loosen the set screw after rear flat blade screw is unscrewed or do I just leave it tight?

The rear of the bolt doesn't appear easy to unscrew but I didn't any method except by hand. Does the cocking mechanism need to be pulled rearward to allow the rear of the bolt to unscrew? Perhaps, its just too tight and will require a strap wrench. I just wanted to clarify whether the rear needs to be pulled rearward to unscrew before I goof something up?

 

[dsandfort]

Once you take out the rear screw and loosen the set screw there is nothing to pull out. Just unscrew the shroud from the bolt (it could be pretty tight from gunk).

 

[BadSquirrel]

Does it unscrew forward of the bolt handle or just rearward of the bolt handle? It doesn't want to budge yet. I'll try the strap wrench you suggested but want to make sure where the threads are. I assume its rearward of the bolt handle and that the bolt handle is removeable once its unscrewed.

 

[dsandfort]

You guilted me into going to my shop and taking a bolt apart. Damn, I forgot 1 step.
Here they are exactly as I just did it.
1. De-cock bolt
2. Tighten set screw in bolt shroud.
3. Remove screw from rear of bolt.
4. Completely remove set screw from rectangular piece of the bolt shroud.
5. Slide the rectangular piece that has the set screw hole rearward out of the bolt shroud.
It fits in a slot in the bolt shroud.
6. unscrew the bolt shroud.

The bolt handle is part of the bolt.

 

[BadSquirrel]

I followed your directions but found that the rectangular piece, which I believe is the cocking mechanism, on my bolt appears to be under spring tension. With it in the decocked position, the rear screw removed and the allen screw removed, I can move it rearward only about 1/8 inch but it springs back into position when I release it. I doesn't seem to be stuck, just springs forward when released. Is yours the same?

 

[dsandfort]

I’m guessing the cocking mechanism is stuck on the firing pin with gunk/rust etc.
I’d put the bolt in a vise and gently tap it out with a wood block.
My bolt it the same as yours. There’s nothing more to hold the piece in except crap..

 

[BadSquirrel]

Tried tapping with a wood block, just springs back into position. Called Cooper for instructions. They told me to get a kliendorf tool, use it to unscrew the rear of bolt same as a Remington. They said no need to unscrew the rear screw or Allen screw unless you’re replacing the firing pin. I’ll give the tool a try when the it arrives. I might be able to see why it’s not separating once the bolt is apart.

I think the misfires may have been a primer problem not really light strikes since I had removed these primers from other brass and may have damaged the anvils on a couple.