Contouring a blank to Savage large shank

[rocknut]

I am thinking about buying a blank and having it chambered to fit a large shank action. If I were to buy a heavy varmint contour which is 1.25 for 5", then contoured to the muzzle, would that portion need to be turned down to 1" or there abouts to get the barrel nut on.Then the tenon would still have to be at least 1.120 to match thread diameter? If that is true, then these barrels cannot be set back and rechambered, Am I correct in my thinking? Thanks in advance for all the knowledgeable folks sharing on this forum. I have learned a ton.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Go without the nut

 

[MClark]

Like Dusty said, no nut.
Thread the barrel like a Remington. You can keep the 1.25 diameter and still be able to set it back.

Mark

 

[rocknut]

So whoever does the chambering has to time the barrel to tighten against the action to head space correctly?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Yes. No problem

 

[savagedasher]

I am thinking about buying a blank and having it chambered to fit a large shank action. If I were to buy a heavy varmint contour which is 1.25 for 5", then contoured to the muzzle, would that portion need to be turned down to 1" or there abouts to get the barrel nut on.Then the tenon would still have to be at least 1.120 to match thread diameter? If that is true, then these barrels cannot be set back and rechambered, Am I correct in my thinking? Thanks in advance for all the knowledgeable folks sharing on this forum. I have learned a ton.

Your are thinking correct. the very best tenon you could end up with is .130. that is .065 per side.
I don't think that is enough. Small shank is fine. PUT A NUT on it. or order 1.300 barrel. Larry

 

[Rustystud]

Do away with the nut and use a shoulder like the rest of us. If you use a larger tenon and the nut you will have to use a clam shell type wrench, because the standard barrel nut wrench will not fit over the action or barrel. Tightening it with a flat bladed screwdriver and a hammer distorts the barrel nut and is not a reliable tightening of the nut.
Nat Lambeth

 

[Dusty Stevens]

The nut is only there for mass production not conducive to accuracy. Youd come out cheaper with most gunsmiths doing the shoulder as opposed to the nut. Its way easier to do.

 

[Dos XX]

Go nutless. Don't be afraid. It only hurts for a little while.

 

[SBS]

I am thinking about buying a blank and having it chambered to fit a large shank action. If I were to buy a heavy varmint contour which is 1.25 for 5", then contoured to the muzzle, would that portion need to be turned down to 1" or there abouts to get the barrel nut on.Then the tenon would still have to be at least 1.120 to match thread diameter? If that is true, then these barrels cannot be set back and rechambered, Am I correct in my thinking? Thanks in advance for all the knowledgeable folks sharing on this forum. I have learned a ton.

To answer your question directly: You do not need to turn the shank in front of the nut down to 1". The nut threads on from the breech end. Turn it down only small enough to fit the action threads (Savage print says 1.115 max.) and thread only far enough to allow the nut room enough to loosen up when the barrel is removed. That way the threads will be hidden under the nut when it is tightened (like a factory barrel setup) and a large shank nut wrench will fit over the barrel. You can still set the barrel back when needed as the shank in front of the nut is still the major diameter of the threads.

 

[missed]

I am thinking about buying a blank and having it chambered to fit a large shank action. If I were to buy a heavy varmint contour which is 1.25 for 5", then contoured to the muzzle, would that portion need to be turned down to 1" or there abouts to get the barrel nut on.Then the tenon would still have to be at least 1.120 to match thread diameter? If that is true, then these barrels cannot be set back and rechambered, Am I correct in my thinking? Thanks in advance for all the knowledgeable folks sharing on this forum. I have learned a ton.

Exactly. All my barrel nuts are from North land shooters supply there is ~1/4" of the front of the nut that is not threaded that fits over the thread major dimension. I can set my barrels back. I leave about 5" at the major dimension.

To answer your question directly: You do not need to turn the shank in front of the nut down to 1". The nut threads on from the breech end. Turn it down only small enough to fit the action threads (Savage print says 1.115 max.) and thread only far enough to allow the nut room enough to loosen up when the barrel is removed. That way the threads will be hidden under the nut when it is tightened (like a factory barrel setup) and a large shank nut wrench will fit over the barrel. You can still set the barrel back when needed as the shank in front of the nut is still the major diameter of the threads.

 

[Randfal]

Good grief! I can't believe some of stuff I have just read. Welcome to the Anti-Savage website.
What you are asking about is a simple everyday operation for anyone that works with Savage rifles. Just turn down the shank OD and whatever length of barrel(if needed) to 1.120" OD and thread the dang thing for a large shank savage,1.120"-20tpi. Use a large shank nut and be done with it. Simple. Do it all the time.
You can set back your barrel to your hearts content with the above method. Barrel will already be turned to the correct tenon OD. Just cut off what you want, pick the thread up and extend them the correct length and chamber away. Much easier to set back than a shouldered barrel.
Same barrel nut wrench fits on the large and small shank nuts. Don't understand the problem there???
Sorry for the firm words but every expert non-Savage gunsmith or internet smith loves to bash a Savage or say this or that can't be done with a Savage. It just gets sickening. You can even use a large shank nut on a small shank action if you stop to think about it for a minute.

 

[missed]

+1.

Good grief! I can't believe some of stuff I have just read. Welcome to the Anti-Savage website.
What you are asking about is a simple everyday operation for anyone that works with Savage rifles. Just turn down the shank OD and whatever length of barrel(if needed) to 1.120" OD and thread the dang thing for a large shank savage,1.120"-20tpi. Use a large shank nut and be done with it. Simple. Do it all the time.
You can set back your barrel to your hearts content with the above method. Barrel will already be turned to the correct tenon OD. Just cut off what you want, pick the thread up and extend them the correct length and chamber away. Much easier to set back than a shouldered barrel.
Same barrel nut wrench fits on the large and small shank nuts. Don't understand the problem there???
Sorry for the firm words but every expert non-Savage gunsmith or internet smith loves to bash a Savage or say this or that can't be done with a Savage. It just gets sickening. You can even use a large shank nut on a small shank action if you stop to think about it for a minute.

 

[rocknut]

Thanks all for a real education on something I had pondered for some time. Randfal, thanks for your input. That certainly makes the most sense. So you just turn the large end of the barrel blank down to the outside diameter of the thread, then you could just cut off the tenon and rechamber. I do like the idea of eliminating the barrel nut and chamber as usual. I would get the benefit of the stiffer barrel shank. But as some one else mentioned, it sounds like there may not be enough material to support the barrel in the action.

 

[Randfal]

Both ways of threading are good. There would be enough of a shoulder to work fine with the non-nut shouldered method. I don't have one apart in the shop right now to measure but I bet a factory Tikka T3 does not have as much shoulder contact as your 1.25" barrel would on a Large Shank Savsge and Tikkas shoot very well with no work needed. Everybody has their own personal preferences. I prefer the nuts because I change barrels around a lot and it lets me use them on any of my Savage actions. If I only had one action(never) I would probably shoulder the barrel and then not worry about having to headspace them when switch barreling.
Also, either way you go, make sure you have s good recoil lug.