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complete cleaning of the 22 lr barrel

rebs

Gold $$ Contributor
when you clean your 22 rf rifle do you completely clean out all the carbon and lead ? Or is it best to just clean out the crud along with most of the carbon and lead ?
 
Testing will tell you what works on your rifle . When I know Im not going to use the rifle for many months or years , I completely clean . Its humidity that can be under the lead and powder residue that can cause problems down the road .
 
Conventional wisdom, at least in smallbore circles, is that there should be very little lead in a good barrel shooting quality ammo. You'll see flakes in the throat from where the bullet engages the rifling, which should come out with normal cleaning, but not much more. There's probably vaporised lead mixed in with the greasy soot, rather than streaks on the bore as with jacketed bullets. Lead building up further along the bore is always held to be a bad thing, as there is usually a rough spot that is stripping lead; the lead accretion will continue to strip metal from passing bullets, growing until it's big enough to be knocked free. Most cleaning solvents won't dissolve lead (only peroxide and Mercury do), so removing severe leading takes a lot of soaking to creep around the lead, and dissolve surrounding crud, before a lot of elbow grease to brush or polish it away.

That said cleaning is always a cost/benefit equation. A thorough clean each time won't hurt the rifle if you take care, and use good kit. But it takes time you might prefer to spend elsewhere, and depending on your shooting any effect on accuracy may be small, or you might require too many fouling shots afterwards. In that case, a less intensive clean may be enough day to day; wet, or even dry, patches will remove a surprising amount of crud, if applied immediately after shooting when the fouling is still damp. I'd still recommend periodically cleaning thoroughly as patches don't remove everything.
 
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when you clean your 22 rf rifle do you completely clean out all the carbon and lead ? Or is it best to just clean out the crud along with most of the carbon and lead ?
All my rifles the barrels are scrubbed after a range session. during a match I run a wet pellet and 3 dry between targets.

Lee
 
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I found this to be useful info .

Gun Cleaning Procedure by Dan Killough

I would like to thank Dan Killough for sending his rifle cleaning procedure in a recent e-mail from Killough Shooting Sports. Most of you are probably on Dan's e-mail list but in the event you missed it here it is:

One of the most common questions I receive on the phone and at the test range is "What is your cleaning procedure?"
I will share what we do and why. At the range, we clean after every 90-100 rounds. I do not have any of the data, but the engineers from Eley tell me that clean guns shoot better than dirty guns. They get this opinion from all of the data collected from the three Eley Test Ranges. They keep the test information from every rifle that has ever been tested in an Eley Test Range. When testing a rifle we note when we clean the rifle and data is collected on the fouling shots. They have crunched the numbers from this information and come to the conclusion that cleaning is a good thing for rimfire barrels. I have also drawn the same conclusion from my experience shooting benchrest. It has been my experience that every barrel loses accuracy once it becomes dirty, the point at which it loses accuracy is different for each barrel. Almost all of the competitions across rimfire whether 3-P, Benchrest, or Silhouette require somewhere between 25-100 shots before a competitor can easily clean their rifle. I also have not personally seen a rifle that could not shoot at least 100 rounds before losing accuracy due to fouling. So, we settled on 90-100 rounds in between cleanings.

Now part 2, how do we actually clean. We use a bore guide that fits the cleaning rod tightly and the bore guide does not go all the way to the barrel, it stops at the loading ramp. I like to see the rod as it goes into the barrel so I can verify that it is going down the center of the barrel. I use a Kleen Bore Jag because it is the same diameter as my cleaning rod, we use Pro-Shot 1 1/8" square cleaning patches, and we use Pro-Shot 1-Step Solvent. I push one wet patch down the barrel and remove the patch at the muzzle. I then use a Short 10" cleaning rod with a .22 caliber Nylon brush and I scrub the first 2-3" of the barrel with a back and forth motion for about 10 strokes. This is to remove the combustion ring. I then push more wet patches until they come out clean. Typically this is about 4 patches. If we are still shooting the rifle, then I finish with a dry patch. If we are finished shooting, then I finish with a wet patch. I have bore scoped many .22 barrels and I have not found one yet that the nylon brush would not remove the combustion ring. In the past, I used a bronze brush, JB Bore Cleaner, or Iosso polish. They will remove combustion ring, but JB and Iosso are both removing metal from the barrel. They are removing very, very, little metal, but they are removing some. I do not believe the bronze brush will damage the barrel, but many people do not like to use bronze brushes on rimfire barrels. Now the Nylon brush could not possibly damage the barrel and I know it is getting the job done, so that is what I use.

Also, if you are testing your rifle with us and you have a different cleaning regimen, we will be happy to follow it for your rifle. It is your rifle, and we will do everything we can to accommodate you.

I hope you find this information helpful. Perhaps it is not the best cleaning regimen, but it has served me well. We only shoot lead bullets and the forces for a rimfire are not what a centerfire rifle is subjected to. Cleaning the rimfire is relatively easy and can be done in just a couple of minutes and I think it is extremely beneficial for accuracy. If you are not currently cleaning your rifle on a regular basis, I strongly urge you to do so.

Until Next Time,

Dan Killough
 
Not brake cleaner, PCV valve or carburetor cleaner will eventually get carbon out.
Not sure about carb cleaner, but I can guaranty a LOT of Big Time RFBR shooters use brake cleaner. Great for flushing triggers and cleaning tuners/bloop tubes. At a big match/tournament you'll see dozens of cans of it. I have not, nor will I, use it in the bore of the barrel.

Scott
 
Not sure about carb cleaner, but I can guaranty a LOT of Big Time RFBR shooters use brake cleaner. Great for flushing triggers and cleaning tuners/bloop tubes. At a big match/tournament you'll see dozens of cans of it. I have not, nor will I, use it in the bore of the barrel.

Scott
I'm with you Scott, I'd never use Break Cleaner for anything else other than cleaning triggers or other essential parts. Why use it in the bore when there's something available like Bore Tech C4 that doesn't even need a brush if you so choose.

Landy
 
Rimfire barrels, I use a pull thru bore cleaner cord thing....no rods to touch the rifling , my Anschutz, my AR22.....

My "big guns" about the same....personally I don't feel a "spic & span" clean is needed....

My opinion
 
Rimfire barrels, I use a pull thru bore cleaner cord thing....no rods to touch the rifling , my Anschutz, my AR22.....

My "big guns" about the same....personally I don't feel a "spic & span" clean is needed....

My opinion
Not my opinion, but fact. With a quality rod, proper sized patch to jag, and the proper bore guide for said rod, NO rods are touching the rifling in any rifle......RF or CF. I used pull thru 'cord things' before I started shooting sanctioned on very tricked out 10/22 clones until my best one fell on it's face accuracy wise. I pulled the barreled action out of the stock and cleaned it properly with a rod, patches, and brush thru the cleaning hole in the back of the receiver. Guess what, it returned to the extreme accuracy it had when it was new.

Scott
 
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After every target. That’s usually between 40-60 rounds for BR.
If it’s not a match rifle, I’d say let the gun tell you. I’ve heard of some with stupid high round counts still shooting well.
Only you will know what’s acceptable for what your trying to hit with it.
I edit because not everyone shoots BR and cleaning that often isn’t needed for run of the mill 22lr.
 
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Bench rest custom.

Cleaning the barrel without damaging stock and or bedding is my goal....
I don't want The build up that will never come out without destroying allot of barrel. I don't use chemicals that will, over time, cause damage.
I don't clean like i use to but i clean regularly. And i use a brush after a match, wanting the rifle to be as it was before the match.
A 22 will last a hundred thousand rounds. Could you imagine the build up if not cleaned regularly !
 
I clean my cz 457 mtr after every shoot. It dont matter if i shoot 10 rounds or 500 i clean. Bronze brush the crap out of the chamber and throat area and full length of barrel. Bore scope reveals throat is clean with this cleaning regime i do. Rifle shoots cold clean bore into the group consistently. I have ran perfect scores on ARA targets from cold clean bore. My specific rifle does not need any fouler shots after cleaning to hit poa poi.
 
I used to clean after every outing. I now clean after every 50 rounds or so. Before I started shooting ARA I never would have believed my rifle’s performance would drop so quickly. The first card I ever shot was a 2500 (Factory class). I saw everyone cleaning vigorously after each card. Several people offered to let me use their cleaning supplies, but I declined. For the next five cards there was a linear decline in my scores.
At my second match I too cleaned between cards and there was no decline in my scores. I’ve shot several matches since and if anything it’s the opposite. There is a linear incline in scores as I settle in and learn the conditions.
 

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