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comparator

I thought the bushing would
be double sided and do both.
You can buy the case comparator you need alacart and it will fit the Red comparator mount that came with your bullet comparator. You can also buy the just the case comparator body set without the red body mount I believe. I would keep the bullet comparator you bought, its very useful for setting up your seating depth.
 
After reading here for hours about these
(tooo much lol) I bought the Hornady one.
I thought this could be used to accurately adjust the sizer die.
Did I think wrong or am I totally missing something?
Just make sure the primer is not sticking above the base of the cartridge.
 
Well I got the shoulder bushings.
Using the red base from the oal comparator
I measured 9 boxes of once fired brass.
Primers still in and no block on solid
caliper jaw.

5 boxes of Win cases, most were 2.048,
9 of them were a little larger.
4 boxes of Rem cases were not as consistent,
2.045 to 2.049.

Checked a bunch of my old brass that had been neck sized many times.
All over the place and were all longer.
That makes me think it takes more than one shot to form out the brass.

Thanks guys. Before this forum I had not heard of comparator.

One more tool (FL die) and I am ready,
says the tool hoarder.
 
Just make sure you deprime without resizing the case to get an accurate fired measurement then adjust the setback accordingly
 
Or you can just seat the fired primer then measure. No worries about pushing the shoulder back and changing the length.
Joe
 
No, this way you get to buy two sets and as mentioned once you buy the correct set you'll have both. I use them both, very handy. Just keep the list from each set so you know what numbers are for what sizes. I really need to print off a proper cheat sheet that has it listed for both sets. On that note, I think their website has updated info on cases not listed on the box.
When you get that list done, Please shoot me a copy...HaHa
 
The Hornady case comparator is not designed for absolute measurement of book spec values. I use a go gauge or fully fire formed case and zero the caliper. That way, all the measurements come out as thousandths above or below that target. Far easier and faster to read -.002 or .005 for example when going through multiple cases.

I keep the a list of these values for all my rifles. For example, I have a 308 Howa that just chambers a go gauge, so it's on my list as .0000. Then a custom 308 that's a .003. makes setting shoulder bumps real easy
 
Is using a case length gauge pin to knock primer out an acceptable method? Or, other than buy another die?
I don't see why that won't work, but it's more difficult than using a "decapping" die - I use a Lee Universal depriming die. However if you are using SRP brass, you will need to grind the decapping pin down to fit the flash hole (electric drill on a fine grinding wheel).
 

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