Commercial Mauser magnum receiver relief cut/ ejection problems

[akajun]

I have a Interarms mark X that I rebarrelled to 338 win mag, was a 300 win mag from the factory. Has a new extractor and ejector, bolt holds the case firmly and the ejector sticks out past the bolt sufficiently. Upon extraction and ejection the case hits the rear bridge/back of the ejection port about midway up the case and instead of kicking the case out, about 50% of the time it kicks the case back into the action. Loaded mag, last round, doesn't matter or change the frequency of it happening. Looking at the receiver I think if I cut a bevel on the rear bridge/back of the ejection port at the top or the bolt raceway that it would put the case out of the action more and cause it leave the action instead of bouncing back in. I have found reference to other commercial mauser actions in magnum calibers having a relief cut from the factory . I also found that Mark X owners with this issue and one on the Alaska outdoor forum stated that he cut a relief in his action which fixed his issued, but I cant get the pics to pull up to see what he did as they wont approve my membership. Anyone have pics of this or of the Alaska outdoors pics that Im referencing?

 

[Sniperhandle]

I have a Interarms mark X that I rebarrelled to 338 win mag, was a 300 win mag from the factory. Has a new extractor and ejector, bolt holds the case firmly and the ejector sticks out past the bolt sufficiently. Upon extraction and ejection the case hits the rear bridge/back of the ejection port about midway up the case and instead of kicking the case out, about 50% of the time it kicks the case back into the action. Loaded mag, last round, doesn't matter or change the frequency of it happening. Looking at the receiver I think if I cut a bevel on the rear bridge/back of the ejection port at the top or the bolt raceway that it would put the case out of the action more and cause it leave the action instead of bouncing back in. I have found reference to other commercial mauser actions in magnum calibers having a relief cut from the factory . I also found that Mark X owners with this issue and one on the Alaska outdoor forum stated that he cut a relief in his action which fixed his issued, but I cant get the pics to pull up to see what he did as they wont approve my membership. Anyone have pics of this or of the Alaska outdoors pics that Im referencing?

I would buy some ejectors on Ebay and mess with the angle on the face of the ejector before I started grinding on the bridge. I have tuned many 1911 ejectors to get just the right throw by filing the ejectors at the angle each one likes.

The extractor has to have the perfect tension also, Or problems can be encountered. Put a dial indicator against the extractor and when you insert a cartridge it should move the dial approx 6 thous. And hold the cartridge firmly at all angles. Go to D'Arcy Echols Blog and you can find a lot of useful information about getting controlled round feed actions to feed. Another guy by the name of Duane Wiebe has a small book that I purchased called "Making It Feed" I found it to be helpful although not real comprehensive. It's a small pamphlet type book with lots of color photos, It was a about 25 dollars back when I bought it.

 

[Sniperhandle]

What I mean by putting a dial indicator on the extractor, Is clamp the bolt in your mill vise and position your indicator up against the side of the extractor and set it to zero, Then gently place a cartridge, Not an empty case into the bolt, The indicator should show somewhere close to 0.006 of deflection.

 

[gat]

On 98 style actions, tight is too tight. Tune extractor and leave the ejector alone!

 

[shortgrass]

Before you do anything, check the extractor as Sniperhandle said, and adjust it if needed. If you get the extractor right and still have problems, then move on to the next 'fix'. I have converted many military '98s to belted mag, and never had to relieve the ejection port. But, the extractor always needed tuning. Mausers are not "plug-n-play", they require 'gunsmithing' to function properly,,,, especially on a cartridge conversion. You installed a new extractor, go there first. If you have the 'old' extractor from the .300 in Mag, try it!

 

[akajun]

Before you do anything, check the extractor as Sniperhandle said, and adjust it if needed. If you get the extractor right and still have problems, then move on to the next 'fix'. I have converted many military '98s to belted mag, and never had to relieve the ejection port. But, the extractor always needed tuning. Mausers are not "plug-n-play", they require 'gunsmithing' to function properly,,,, especially on a cartridge conversion. You installed a new extractor, go there first. If you have the 'old' extractor from the .300 in Mag, try it!

The old extractor was worn in the retention groove , causing it to shift back and forth. And not hood the case which is why I got the rifle cheap.It was useless
I’ll look up the reference materials mentioned and play with it some more.
One thing I noticed that with military Mausers, the “ relief cut” I mentioned is already there because the stripper clip cut takes that hunk of metal out.
I simply read somewhere that some commercial mauser actions had a relief cut . Not much room for the empty to eject on a mag case in this action.

 

[shortgrass]

Now, I am wondering why you changed the ejector?

 

[akajun]

Now, I am wondering why you changed the ejector?

I changed the extractor first, some improvement but not 100%. Changing the ejector made no difference

 

[Will Henry]

You need just a little less grip on the extractor. If you want to cut any relief on the receiver, you want to just take a bit of the corner off the top of the right hand locking lug raceway, at the bridge. Leave some support for the tang of the extractor. WH