I use a media tumbler for cleaning brass. The most teadious part of this is cleaning primer poctets and inside of case necks trying to get it free of media dust and carbon in primer pockets. It shure would be nice to clean all in one step. I saw the other post about cleaning necks and didn't want to steal his thread. Are the sonic cleaners any good?? I usually get 400 in bass pro gift cards from the inlaws and am getting a RCBS chargemaster and need one other item.
Cleaning Cases Period
- Thread starter jsthntn247
- Start date
Erik Cortina
Team Lapua Brux Borden Captain
They work fine. Get some Citranox and you are good to go.
Get a ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight, they cost about $60.00 and they are good. The best way I have found is stainless tumbling media, but US will work good too.
Also get a Lee universal depriving die to pop primers out before you clean.
Get a ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight, they cost about $60.00 and they are good. The best way I have found is stainless tumbling media, but US will work good too.
Also get a Lee universal depriving die to pop primers out before you clean.
Erik Cortina said:
Everything Erik said. I have all the same equipment. Stainless media is great but the Harbor ultrasonic cleaner will do just about as well for a lot less money.
It does not get large primer pockets as clean as SS media but does about as well on small pockets. I run mine, starting with hot water and heat option enabled, for three 480 second cycles, 24 minutes total.
I use IOSSO liquid cleaner kit. If you dont load a bunch,it's the way to go. The only thing wrong with it is,dont leave the cases in the cleaner more than one minute ,while shaking them around in the bag. Rinse the bag and cases off under warm water. Clean out the cases with Q-tips soon. If the cases are exposed to the cleaner too long,they will etch and ruin them. It does work good though.
jsthntn247 said:
I just came back from the National Bench Rest Shooters Association [NBRSA] Nationals in Midland and I can tell you the only things the shooters there cleaned were inside case necks and primer pockets. And, these guys are the best in the world at what they do. If time permits, they may wipe off the outside of the neck, but that's it.
If you want squeaky clean, pretty, shiny brass [which hasn't proven to reduce group size], then UltraSonic cleaning, along with its UltraSonic apparatus, liquids, beakers, dry lube for facilitating bullet seating, etc., may just be what you're looking for.
Been there, done that, no thanks.
I do vibrate my .45 ACP brass with primers in [keeps media out of the flash hole] and then reload. However, for my 6PPC and 30BR competitive rifles, I wipe off the outside of the case neck with 0000 steel wool or a little patch of NEVR-DULL, run a nylon brush inside the neck a few times and then clean primer pockets with a carbon steel primer pocket uniformer chucked in a portable drill [makes life easy]. I routinely, keep the inside of my dies cleaned with either lighter fluid or Butch's Bore Shine.
I don't like to get my cases wet, because then there is tarnishing to manage.
I only vibratory clean.
If excessive dusting is an issue, you're using bad media.
Bass Pro in particular has excellent media in clear jugs(Lyman).
http://www.basspro.com/Lyman-Case-Cleaning-Media-Corncob/product/10202407/83542
I only vibratory clean.
If excessive dusting is an issue, you're using bad media.
Bass Pro in particular has excellent media in clear jugs(Lyman).
http://www.basspro.com/Lyman-Case-Cleaning-Media-Corncob/product/10202407/83542
If not annealing cases, other than aesthetics, there is no strong reason to use either ultrasonic or stainless media cleaning. If annealing, it is desirable to get as close to bare brass as possible.
After stainless tumbling, drying and annealing, I polish the cases in a vibratory tumbler to provide a little more slickness before sizing. A graphited nylon brush in the neck eases bullet seating. Typical lot sizes are 100-150 cases.
My experiments show annealing provides significant ES/SD reduction. In calibers 7mm and ,30, I use .004-.005" diametral clearance. In 6mm and .22, .002-.003". This works for me in F-Class and varmint rifles. Other folks doubtless have different approaches that work for them in their applications.
After stainless tumbling, drying and annealing, I polish the cases in a vibratory tumbler to provide a little more slickness before sizing. A graphited nylon brush in the neck eases bullet seating. Typical lot sizes are 100-150 cases.
My experiments show annealing provides significant ES/SD reduction. In calibers 7mm and ,30, I use .004-.005" diametral clearance. In 6mm and .22, .002-.003". This works for me in F-Class and varmint rifles. Other folks doubtless have different approaches that work for them in their applications.
Mike,
Any remaining carbon inside the case neck can become hard and very difficult to remove after annealing. Since cartridge cases are a copper alloy, they are very thermally conductive and the inside and outside are heated equally.
Any remaining carbon inside the case neck can become hard and very difficult to remove after annealing. Since cartridge cases are a copper alloy, they are very thermally conductive and the inside and outside are heated equally.
My experience is that, once neck carbon is hardened, more carbon collects than otherwise and neck tension becomes more erratic. My point in annealing is to reduce neck tension variability and velocity variation. For my purposes, my current regime achieves that. I am not saying that mine is the only way, just that this is what works for me.
dreever said:
Do you anneal your brass, Danny?
jonbearman
I live in new york state,how unfortunate !
Since I bought an annealing machine(best money I ever spent) reloading has been so much easier and my groups have shrunk in otherwise only fair shooters.I use tuffnut with the jewelers rouge on it and tumble till clean and blow out anything remaining which isnt much if anything at all. Then I anneal, a light polish again to smooth anything I missed and off to the range. I also invested in 2 graceys as I do alot of 2 caliber shooting and trim ,chamfer, and deburr all at the same time.I do use a vld reamer in some cases depending on the shape of the base of the bullet. Prior to this I decap and ream all pockets to uniform the depth. Damn thats alot of work,but the trick is volume preping so you can keep brass all ready to load and hit the range.
Ultransonic gets the job done well and I used to clean ultransonically. But, it you have no pre-conceptions, I would strongly suggest stainlesss media with a Thumlers tumbler. This is the best brass cleaning method hands-down IMHO. It's a wet method and if you live in a high humidity area, it may not be the right choice.....takes too long to dry. But, I live in AZ and with our low humidity, there is no doubt this is the best method.
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
Picking media out of flash holes gives you another "good" chance to inspect your brass.
If you can't take the time or too busy, let someone else do the work for you.
If you can't take the time or too busy, let someone else do the work for you.
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.