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Choosing Between The Kahles 1050, March Majesta, , Or Valdada Terminator For The Tack Driver

jackieschmidt

Gold $$ Contributor
As the title says, I am going to invest in one of these three scopes for the next Tack Driver. The sole object is to be able to see bullet holes in he terrible mirage at Orangeburg.

I have only looked through the big Valdada, the one Bart had two years ago. It was impressive.

I like he Kahles because of the 31 ounce weight. But if he glass is not capable, what’s the point.

Any thoughts from some one who has looked through any of them.

Keep in mind, the only concern is optics. I have used both the March High Master 48x And the NightForce 15x55 Competition, and neither is up to the task.
 
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I’d really like to hear someone say: “I used my _________ scope at Tackdriver 5 and I could see every bullet hole I made.”

I’d order THAT scope TODAY. I personally don’t think it exists. “I used my Nightforce Competition at Tackdriver 5 and I couldn’t see squat when the mirage got bad”
 
Did anyone use the plastic screw in thing that goes in the objective bell? It has a hole in that reduces the aperture so that the focal distance is increased. It is like the difference on a camera between an f8 and f16 focal stop, for instance. F8 and f16 are example numbers and i just used them for the example, I have no idea what the actual aperture difference really is.


These have come with every 10-50 March HM I have bought. I have had them made for NF and maybe Kahles 10- 50, can't remember for sure on Kahles.

My March 10-50 HM sees through mirage better than my NF comps did and better than my Kahles 10-50 did. The reticles are darker or bolder or thicker or all 3 on th March HM too.

No experience with the big Valdada or the Majesta.

Here, I found the link.

 
I have both NF Comp’s and the 10-50 Kahles. I found the Kahles to handle high magnification in heavy mirage a good bit better than the NF Comp. I find it constantly very useable at 50x. But the way scopes work with everyone’s eyes slightly differently you really need to get behind one and see for yourself.
I have looked through several Majesta’s and can’t say I was blown away, but I also haven’t set one up for myself and spent a day with one either.
 
As the title says, I am going to invest in one of these three scopes for the next Tack Driver. The sole object is to be able to see bullet holes in he terrible mirage at Orangeburg.

I have only looked through the big Valdada, the one Bart had two years ago. It was impressive.

I like he Kahles because of the 31 ounce weight. But if he glass is not capable, what’s the point.

Any thoughts from some one who has looked through any of them.

Keep in mind, the only concern is optics. I have used both the March High Master 48x And the NightForce 15x55 Competition, and neither is up to the task.

There will be a pile of different scopes to look through at the next Bayou match. Even if you didn't register to shoot, with some kindness, I know all the fellas there would be more than happy to offer you a peek in-between individual relays so you can see first hand what works best for your eyes. It might even be worthwhile to swing by say 1000ish and stick around and view through a couple different ones as conditions change or degrade as the day and match progress.


 
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I have both NF Comp’s and the 10-50 Kahles. I found the Kahles to handle high magnification in heavy mirage a good bit better than the NF Comp. I find it constantly very useable at 50x. But the way scopes work with everyone’s eyes slightly differently you really need to get behind one and see for yourself.
I have looked through several Majesta’s and can’t say I was blown away, but I also haven’t set one up for myself and spent a day with one either.
I had a Kahles 10x50 and it seemed to me to have a better image on 50x plus the image or bullet holes were much larger than the NF comp but my eyes r pretty bad
 
Did anyone use the plastic screw in thing that goes in the objective bell? It has a hole in that reduces the aperture so that the focal distance is increased. ..

I run one on mine but it probably the last thing you want if it's bullet holes you're after. As it says, the reducer gives a better view of mirage over a greater distance.
 
Jackie,

I have only went to Tack Driver 4 and 5. In td4 I used my Magesta, and when it got ugly in the afternoon score targets I had to back off to 40x, and even then I had to "focus for a few seconds" to see the 6mm holes. In td5 we used Alex 15-55 comp, and again backed to 40x I had to "focus for a bit" to see them. One wasn't better than the other for that purpose. I do not think the Kahles is a step up for resolving...actually the other way, at least for me. I have the terminator, and would say, for me, it's between kahles and majesta/comp for resolution.

Tom
 
I run one on mine but it probably the last thing you want if it's bullet holes you're after. As it says, the reducer gives a better view of mirage over a greater distance.
"Shooters notice the lines on the target are more defined with the mirage cap in place, especially on hot afternoons with heavy mirage."
 
Did anyone use the plastic screw in thing that goes in the objective bell? It has a hole in that reduces the aperture so that the focal distance is increased. It is like the difference on a camera between an f8 and f16 focal stop, for instance. F8 and f16 are example numbers and i just used them for the example, I have no idea what the actual aperture difference really is.
The smaller hole increase depth of field by allowing only the light to come through a smaller portion of the lens. When the entire diameter of the lens is used, the rays converge at different angles and then the focuses is at one place. The larger the lens, the smaller the single focus place can appear to be. By eliminating the outer rays it provides a greater area that appears sharp to the eye.

The aperture of a camera lens is a ratio for how much light a lens allows. Each of the common f: numbers are a doubling of light. For example, the f:8 allows twice the light of the next number which is f:11 and f:16 is half of f:11. f:16 allows 1/4th the light of f:8. Each full number difference is squared.

Prior to automatic cameras, it was essential to understand the principle, today, not so much. Understanding depth of field is still handy to know.
 
Thanks for highlighting this thread.
I don't have anything to add as I haven't shot at 300 y/m in a half-eternity (aka, a very long time). I shoot only 1000 yrds, with the occasional forays at 600 yards. When I do my initial load development at 100 yards, my point of aim is an X that I scribble at the bottom of a 48-inch paper and the shots impact the paper above the view in the riflescope.

Tim's suggestion that the OP come visit the next match at Bayou is a great idea, but again, the OP should see about going to a 300-yard match, not a long-range match since he has a definite specification in mind.

I very much favor buying the riflescope that fits the needs of the buyer. I know which scopes fulfills my requirements for 1000yard F-Class competition in the mirage soup, where I don't worry about the bullet holes, I want to see the rings and have a round aiming black.
 

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