When you have just purchased a new rifle and mounted a new scope to it, and you have never reloaded for that caliber before, how do you choose what published load to reload first to use as your starting point for zeroing your scope and breaking in your barrel? Or will most fellows recommend starting with factory ammo to break-in a new rifle and establish your first zero?
Choosing a load to zero a new rifle and scope?
- Thread starter Timmis2
- Start date
Jager
Gold $$ Contributor
Kinda depends on the gun.
The conservative choice, especially if you're new to a caliber, is to choose something at the lower charge weight end. No different than any other new load development.
If it's a familiar caliber and familiar bullet, most of us are probably going to choose something we've loaded before and that we know isn't too hot.
If it's a custom gun, especially from a reamer we're familiar with, many of us will simply use whatever competition load - which is often a bit warm - we normally do. I put a scope on a new-to-me benchrest gun (BAT action and heavy barrel) a few days ago. Standard load worked a treat.
The conservative choice, especially if you're new to a caliber, is to choose something at the lower charge weight end. No different than any other new load development.
If it's a familiar caliber and familiar bullet, most of us are probably going to choose something we've loaded before and that we know isn't too hot.
If it's a custom gun, especially from a reamer we're familiar with, many of us will simply use whatever competition load - which is often a bit warm - we normally do. I put a scope on a new-to-me benchrest gun (BAT action and heavy barrel) a few days ago. Standard load worked a treat.
Choose the powder that has the lowest chamber pressure at starting load. Then work up to your most accurate load. Also powder choice depends on many factors like type of bullet you're wanting to reload shells.
KISS - best not to overload yourself on initial range trip. Buy some factory ammo and go have fun sighting in your new rifle and confirm its functions properly. Before the initial firing you’ll want to clean the barrel (run some patches through it) to ensure no metal filings or remnants are left inside barrel.
Now that you have gotten the initial new gun itch scratched, you can start your journey in reloading.
Now that you have gotten the initial new gun itch scratched, you can start your journey in reloading.
64Rambler
Gold $$ Contributor
What's the new rifle and cartridge? What's the intended use? What components do you already have (primers, powder)? With a new caliber/cartridge you'll obviously need to buy cases and bullets. BUT if you're just trying to get it sighted in, a box of factory ammo will get that job done.
ELR LVR
Silver $$ Contributor
I first pick the bullet I will be using
Then work a load around that bullet, preferably with at least 3 different powders
Starting low
If I am sighting in, it stands to reason it should be for the load I will be shooting later
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
Find your bullet weight listed. Find your powder listed, Find the MAX load and start maybe 1.5 grains lower. Maybe even 2.0 grains. Go up a couple on 10th at a time till it starts grouping. When THAT starts, adjust accordingly. And not a thing wrong with shooting so enjoy it while you can. 
And ONLY make one change at a time or you'll end up chasing your tail. 
And ONLY make one change at a time or you'll end up chasing your tail. I don't own a rifle, but in my 40+ handguns I've never shot a factory round ever in 55+ years. Always used my hunting loads & bullets with slow firing & frequent cleaning for the first 25+ rounds. Seems to work well. My .223 Contender handgun and two .22-250 XP-100 handguns still do 3/8" at 100 for over 40 years. These guns have around 2000 rounds thru them.
I did "burn out" a barrel in my 6.5/.284 XP-100 handgun after 2200 rounds. 900 rounds thru the new barrel are still doing well.
I did "burn out" a barrel in my 6.5/.284 XP-100 handgun after 2200 rounds. 900 rounds thru the new barrel are still doing well.
Back during the ammo and rifle shortages we encountered several rifles including some from reputable manufacturers that had issues that required they be returned to the manufacturer. Almost always they wanted to know what ammunition was being used. I haven't purchased a new rifle in about 13 years but based on my past experience I would do the following.
Purchase a standard non match ammunition for sighting in and breaking in the rifle. About 40 rounds. Then purchase a box (20 rds) of known, quality match or hunting ammunition to use as an accuracy benchmark.
You can sometimes bypass the purchase of the latter ammunition when there are known loads that pretty much work in all rifles. For instance in 308 Win a 168 SMK with Varget, RL15, or 4064 have well known loads that duplicate (or did at one time) duplicate Federal Gold Medal Match.
Purchase a standard non match ammunition for sighting in and breaking in the rifle. About 40 rounds. Then purchase a box (20 rds) of known, quality match or hunting ammunition to use as an accuracy benchmark.
You can sometimes bypass the purchase of the latter ammunition when there are known loads that pretty much work in all rifles. For instance in 308 Win a 168 SMK with Varget, RL15, or 4064 have well known loads that duplicate (or did at one time) duplicate Federal Gold Medal Match.
I'll also join with the suggestions to buy a couple boxes of factory ammo for your new rifle. Especially if it's factory new, and not just new to you, and you don't have the dies, bullets, etc. to load for it yet. You'll at the least get some fireformed brass to work with.
My experience with brand new factory rifles, is that they take a bit to settle in. While 20 rounds might be enough to get your scope dialed in, and give you a good zero to work up subsequent loads, 40 lets you shoot a little more and spend a bit more time getting to know the new rifle.
You can also push some patches through every round, or every couple rounds, for the first box, and feel how that changes as you go. It definitely does.
For reloads, pick a bullet known to perform in your chosen cartridge, and load that with a mid range powder at a mid range for pressure and velocity, with the goal of beating what the factory ammo did. Shouldn't be hard, and it give a small psychological win. From there, you can decide how far you want to take things.
My experience with brand new factory rifles, is that they take a bit to settle in. While 20 rounds might be enough to get your scope dialed in, and give you a good zero to work up subsequent loads, 40 lets you shoot a little more and spend a bit more time getting to know the new rifle.
You can also push some patches through every round, or every couple rounds, for the first box, and feel how that changes as you go. It definitely does.
For reloads, pick a bullet known to perform in your chosen cartridge, and load that with a mid range powder at a mid range for pressure and velocity, with the goal of beating what the factory ammo did. Shouldn't be hard, and it give a small psychological win. From there, you can decide how far you want to take things.
Good question.
First of all, in 60 years in this sport, I have never "broken in" a barrel and all my rifles with very few exceptions have performed to my requirements. The ones that didn't had bedding / factory defect issues.
When I get a new rifle, I clean the barrel thoroughly with a bronze brush and Hoppe's 9 to remove all traces of preservative that the manufacturer may have treated the barrel.
Once I have selected a bullet, I use the bullet manufacturer's load data if available and start with their published "accuracy load". Sierra and Nosler have such data. This data has almost always proven beneficial with some minor powder adjustments. Lyman also have useful data to test.
Since I have only ever shot legacy cartridges such as the 30 06, 308, 270, 243, 22-250, 223, and 222; it has never been difficult for me to find a load that performs well assuming the rifle and scope are mechanical sound since these cartridges have well established loads combinations.
First of all, in 60 years in this sport, I have never "broken in" a barrel and all my rifles with very few exceptions have performed to my requirements. The ones that didn't had bedding / factory defect issues.
When I get a new rifle, I clean the barrel thoroughly with a bronze brush and Hoppe's 9 to remove all traces of preservative that the manufacturer may have treated the barrel.
Once I have selected a bullet, I use the bullet manufacturer's load data if available and start with their published "accuracy load". Sierra and Nosler have such data. This data has almost always proven beneficial with some minor powder adjustments. Lyman also have useful data to test.
Since I have only ever shot legacy cartridges such as the 30 06, 308, 270, 243, 22-250, 223, and 222; it has never been difficult for me to find a load that performs well assuming the rifle and scope are mechanical sound since these cartridges have well established loads combinations.
Thanks guys. My new rifle with a new scope is a 350 Legend bolt-action. I think I'm going to use a few boxes of one type of factory target/range ammo to break-in and zero before incorporating handloads into the mix. I'm going to be reloading all kinds of recipes for it which will complicate zeroing with them until they are worked up to their best potential. The rifle will be used mostly, and often, at a range to shoot steel targets setup every 50 yards out to 400 yards. At least with factory ammo, I can determine if the gun will shoot and be sure I didn't get a bad barrel, and not worry so much about a handload that hasn't been worked up yet as a judge for group size and initial zeroing.
I just picked up a bolt 350 legend. I have the advantage of gas gun loads that work for me. I'm still trying new loads to get the best out of the rifle. I don't shot beyond my capability so I only need minute of deer at reasonable ranges.
Good luck,
Paul
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