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Choate stock

I just got a Choate tactical stock for my Savage. There were no instructions with it. My question is- there is a large gap in front of the recoil lug. I assume the lug needs to be a tight fit. I can't figure why they didn't leave a tight slot like the Savage stock that could be enlarged to fit the recoil lug if you are using the thicker lug from SSS. I plan on machining a piece of aluminum to fill it in. Any other ideas. I like the stock though I wish they had inletted it a little closer.
 
Jonl said:
I just got a Choate tactical stock for my Savage. There were no instructions with it. My question is- there is a large gap in front of the recoil lug. I assume the lug needs to be a tight fit. I can't figure why they didn't leave a tight slot like the Savage stock that could be enlarged to fit the recoil lug if you are using the thicker lug from SSS. I plan on machining a piece of aluminum to fill it in. Any other ideas. I like the stock though I wish they had inletted it a little closer.

Bed the action and lug. That is why there is room around the lug.
 
The slot is that big to allow for someone that wants to use a oversized lug .250-.350. Clearance in front of the lug doesn't matter, but it is crucial to have it fit tight to the back towards the action. You could always bed it for peace of mind.
 
I'm betting the large opening is for 2nd ops after the basic stock is injected. It's probably a locating surface for fixturing off the front of the bedding block for machining of the trigger recess & front rail thread inserts (mine looks machined, not injected). It also doubles for clearance for the lug & barrel nut, both.
 
I talked to a guy at Choate and he said they used to leave a narrow gap for the stock lug but when the .25" lug was used people complained so they just cut the whole front out. He said it ought to shoot fine without bedding but he would bed it if it was his. I guess shoot just fine means kill a deer at 50 yards. I plan on filling the gap with epoxy. Does the action need bedding since it has the heavy pillar block. Everything on bottom was a too tight fit in the stock so I ground the sides of the bottom metal just a little and everything went in tight. Is there a better way to bed it.
 
I have one for a 700LA. I use a .300 recoil lug with a Remage barrel from Northland. Jim was concerned about the .300 and available threads on the barrel but it fit with about a rev to spare. It fits the stock well and as was mentioned previously the front of the lug doesn't matter and needs clearance to remove hence taping the front and sides when bedding.
 
What is best way to bed the lug. Does the action need anything besides being torqued to the aluminum pillar.
 
I skim bed the aluminum block to take up the difference's with the bottom of the receiver. Then I put tape on the sides,bottom and front of the lug so it will go in and come out easily.When I skim bed I use a 1/8 th end mill and make little slots for the epoxy to stay put or you could rough it up with coarse sand paper or even drill little hole in the block to hold the epoxy a little better.
 
Hey guys I'm new here so yes, I understand this is an ancient thread but I can't create new ones yet. I see on the page http://www.6mmbr.com/norcaltactical.html towards the bottom,a Rem 700 with Choate varmint stock that has a DBM installed. The editor references the owner Mike. Does anyone know what bottom metal that is and who can inlet this stock for it?
zakuglyx400.jpg

Thanks for any help,
Gary
 
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Yes sir, I got a message from them 2 days ago, he said he can't do that stock. Rookie mistake on my part, I never should have bought this stock. Regardless, as you can see, someone can do it. If I can't figure out who in the next week or so, I'll take it as a loss and buy another stock or just go chassis. I really do not dislike this stock, if I can, I'll keep it. The DBM is a must though for matches.
 
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What is best way to bed the lug. Does the action need anything besides being torqued to the aluminum pillar.


I bedded the Lug on my Choate stock, .223 rifle. i used modeler's clay to build a dam in front of the area the recoil lug goes. you can pick whatever clearance you want in front of the lug. i taped the front of the lug and doubled taped the bottom, but no tape on the sides. came out great. it shoots excellent, but it shot excellent before i bedded it
 
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I'd sell the Choad and buy a KRG Bravo or Grayboe that is already inletted for M5 bottom metal. Easy fix and a much better move.
 
That KRG X-Ray looks like it would suit my needs. If I don't find someone who can inlet DBM on this Choate which I have no problems with, I'll probably go with that or Manners T2. Rookie mistakes are expensive.
 
That KRG X-Ray looks like it would suit my needs. If I don't find someone who can inlet DBM on this Choate which I have no problems with, I'll probably go with that or Manners T2. Rookie mistakes are expensive.
CDI can do the inlet .Last stock I sent to them, the inletting was 'free' uf you bought the bottom metal from them. I have the same stock on a heavy .243, set up for steel shooting, and am completely satisfied. No bedding, jyst bolted in, and it shoots pretty darn well..below target was 108 ELD-M's at 300 yards.0504171819.jpg 0429171113.jpg
 

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