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Checking Twist Rate POSITIVELY

I have NEVER been able to come up with repeatable numbers when checking the twist with a tight patch. I have been cogitating on this idea for a long time and finally decided to give it a try. I wanted to verify the twist on my factory sporter Remington 700 223 bbl. The black stuff sticking out the front of the 22 RF bullet is flat carbon fiber strip about 1/8" wide. I used a razor saw to cut a slot in the front of the bullet and crimped the CF strip in place. Then I used a CF rod to push the slug just into the bore from the chamber end. I put a strip of tape on the CF strip right at the muzzle, noted the orientation of the strip and then pushed the slug down the bore until I got one full revolution. Then measure from the muzzle to the tape and voila, 11.750".

Later I expanded another slug and used it to check a couple of 6mm bbls but it was harder to get the now blunt nosed slug started in the rifling and while I was able to make it work I would recommend sourcing proper sized lead bullets to suit whatever bore you want to measure. Both of the 6mm bbls measured just under 14".

PICT0004_zpsdeotm8gl.jpg


PICT0007_zpsbfazbz7v.jpg
 
That's a pretty clever trick, but... what exactly is it buying you? :) I mean, what's the difference (on paper) between say, 1:11.750" and 1:12? I'm genuinely interested because I don't think I've ever bothered to check the twist rate on a barrel, beyond an initial "yep, that's 1:9-ish alright".
 
In the past using a patch I would one time get say 14 and the next 10 and the next 16. Now I know it's a 12. I had hoped for a 9. And in the 6mm world if you want to shoot a light boat tail BR bullet you buy a 13.5 instead of a 14. Same on my 6mms. I had hoped that one would have been a 12 so I could shoot 80's at 500.
 
I know you can end up with a barrel in a trade that you don't have history for but when I chamber a barrel I take this photo just before I start cutting. I save it where I can find it and associate it and and I always text it to whoever the barrel is for.

 
If your barrel is long enough to push it 2 or even 3 revolutions that will increase the accuracy. Your errors will be unchanged and they will be divided by 2 or 3. --Jerry
 
I have NEVER been able to come up with repeatable numbers when checking the twist with a tight patch. I have been cogitating on this idea for a long time and finally decided to give it a try. I wanted to verify the twist on my factory sporter Remington 700 223 bbl. The black stuff sticking out the front of the 22 RF bullet is flat carbon fiber strip about 1/8" wide. I used a razor saw to cut a slot in the front of the bullet and crimped the CF strip in place. Then I used a CF rod to push the slug just into the bore from the chamber end. I put a strip of tape on the CF strip right at the muzzle, noted the orientation of the strip and then pushed the slug down the bore until I got one full revolution. Then measure from the muzzle to the tape and voila, 11.750".

Later I expanded another slug and used it to check a couple of 6mm bbls but it was harder to get the now blunt nosed slug started in the rifling and while I was able to make it work I would recommend sourcing proper sized lead bullets to suit whatever bore you want to measure. Both of the 6mm bbls measured just under 14".

PICT0004_zpsdeotm8gl.jpg


PICT0007_zpsbfazbz7v.jpg
i have used a bronze brush and have gotten some pretty repeatable figures but ive never tried to get the accuracy you are seeking. good idea - Thanks for sharing
 
In the past using a patch I would one time get say 14 and the next 10 and the next 16. Now I know it's a 12.

Maybe it is difference in technique, but I get very repeatable (within 1/4" which is all I need) when I use a rod with a handle that rolls very easily on the rod and a tight patch. And when you say you know it is a 12, you don't if it is a Remington 204 Ruger barrel.
 
I know you can end up with a barrel in a trade that you don't have history for but when I chamber a barrel I take this photo just before I start cutting. I save it where I can find it and associate it and and I always text it to whoever the barrel is for.


Help me out here please.
May I correctly deduce that it is / was 26", 11tw? The rest seems obvious.
 
I know you can end up with a barrel in a trade that you don't have history for but when I chamber a barrel I take this photo just before I start cutting. I save it where I can find it and associate it and and I always text it to whoever the barrel is for.


Help me out here please.
May I correctly deduce that it is / was 26", 11tw? The rest seems obvious.
 
Length isn't specified. It was a 31" blank with a 1.350 diameter, taper to 1.1. a behemoth. But all that is still visible. All you lose is the SN and the twist rate. This is a 9 tw barrel. --Jerry
 
Help me out here please.
May I correctly deduce that it is / was 26", 11tw? The rest seems obvious.
I did spend some time on the strike above the SS.... My guess was a 9 but too indistinct at that camera angle. The 26 followed by the 11 was too coincidental for me to ignore as well as 9 not being that common for most .308s.
Thanks for the straight dope.
 
I know you can end up with a barrel in a trade that you don't have history for but when I chamber a barrel I take this photo just before I start cutting. I save it where I can find it and associate it and and I always text it to whoever the barrel is for.


So the 1611937 is a serial number? It has no meaning as to contour or anything else.
 

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