Gary,
Just break the sharp edge and polish it by spinning it in steel wool. I still use my old Wilson/rcbs tool. Uniform and not not sharp is what's important. Never seen a need to match a chamfer to an ogive lol.
Tom
I think perhaps you make Tom's point for him. How does a bullet's VLD BC cry out for a special chamfer angle?Tom, the ogive is on the other end...... maybe I'm missing something about seating......... lol..... Jim
A light cut on a K&M and spin on 0000 steel wool works great.I hit mine very light with a K&M chamfer tool.
I think perhaps you make Tom's point for him. How does a bullet's VLD BC cry out for a special chamfer angle?
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His point (as I read him) was that it has nothing to do with ogive. Perhaps his touch of irony was too subtle.What does that have to do with the ogive? 0.......... The real points is a smooth entrance into the neck with no scratches on the heel of the boat tail ........ Jim
His point (as I read him) was that it has nothing to do with ogive. Perhaps his touch of irony was too subtle.
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Didn't ... what?Maybe the guy that ask the question didn't ?
I think perhaps you make Tom's point for him. How does a bullet's VLD BC cry out for a special chamfer angle?
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With the vlds long boattail I believe they DO NOT require vld chamfering tools. The extra angle is just a waste of neck surface in my opinion. I think the vld chamfering tools may be better suited to flat base bullets not vlds or hybrids. Just my opinion. I just touch mine with standard chamber tool and polish with steel wool.
How can you "chamfer" so severely as to actually shorten the case OAL without creating a good, sharp leather hole punch? (Spinning that in steel wool amounts to a prudent safety precaution, if there are small children around.) Besides, isn't chamfering a grossly inefficient way to shorten a case even slightly?OK, now with a Dasher I always try to hold 1.550 case length but those who could not hold it said it wasn't important. Some shoot them short as 1.530's so if you chamfer at all you are super short but if I trim to 1.550 and chamfer .010 to .015 when I'm done I have more neck than the short brass starts out with. I prefer the old K&M tool for a couple of reasons, it keeps it in line, it controls the cut at the case mouth and it cuts smooth. followed by a spin on the steel wool wrapped brush. They slide in slicker than snot on a door knob...... Jim
How can you "chamfer" so severely as to actually shorten the case OAL without creating a good, sharp leather hole punch? (Spinning that in steel wool amounts to a prudent safety precaution, if there are small children around.) Besides, isn't chamfering a grossly inefficient way to shorten a case even slightly?
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