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Chamfering angle for VLD & Hybrid in Dasher

What is the best degree of angle to chamfer the Dasher brass for Berger VLDS & Hybrids- 22-28 or 30 degree???

Thanks.
 
This is clearly the best inside chamber tool I have used. It is Razor sharp and fast. ......now, if Sinclair would make a similar designed outside chamfer tool we would be set. IMO, all the industry standard outside chamber tools are weak.


SINCLAIR CARBIDE VLD CASE MOUTH CHAMFERING TOOL


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What does that have to do with the ogive? 0.......... The real points is a smooth entrance into the neck with no scratches on the heel of the boat tail ........ Jim
His point (as I read him) was that it has nothing to do with ogive. Perhaps his touch of irony was too subtle.
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I think perhaps you make Tom's point for him. How does a bullet's VLD BC cry out for a special chamfer angle?
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Your take isn't maybe isn't how others take it. the guy had a concern about the angle and if it is important and with the replies it isn't as much as being Smooth. I will add this, as you increase neck tension it becomes more important that it be smooth and the angle could the cutter does help. Jim
 
With the vlds long boattail I believe they DO NOT require vld chamfering tools. The extra angle is just a waste of neck surface in my opinion. I think the vld chamfering tools may be better suited to flat base bullets not vlds or hybrids. Just my opinion. I just touch mine with standard chamfer tool and polish with steel wool.
 
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With the vlds long boattail I believe they DO NOT require vld chamfering tools. The extra angle is just a waste of neck surface in my opinion. I think the vld chamfering tools may be better suited to flat base bullets not vlds or hybrids. Just my opinion. I just touch mine with standard chamber tool and polish with steel wool.


OK, now with a Dasher I always try to hold 1.550 case length but those who could not hold it said it wasn't important. Some shoot them short as 1.530's so if you chamfer at all you are super short but if I trim to 1.550 and chamfer .010 to .015 when I'm done I have more neck than the short brass starts out with. I prefer the old K&M tool for a couple of reasons, it keeps it in line, it controls the cut at the case mouth and it cuts smooth. followed by a spin on the steel wool wrapped brush. They slide in slicker than snot on a door knob...... Jim
 
OK, now with a Dasher I always try to hold 1.550 case length but those who could not hold it said it wasn't important. Some shoot them short as 1.530's so if you chamfer at all you are super short but if I trim to 1.550 and chamfer .010 to .015 when I'm done I have more neck than the short brass starts out with. I prefer the old K&M tool for a couple of reasons, it keeps it in line, it controls the cut at the case mouth and it cuts smooth. followed by a spin on the steel wool wrapped brush. They slide in slicker than snot on a door knob...... Jim
How can you "chamfer" so severely as to actually shorten the case OAL without creating a good, sharp leather hole punch? (Spinning that in steel wool amounts to a prudent safety precaution, if there are small children around.) Besides, isn't chamfering a grossly inefficient way to shorten a case even slightly?
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How can you "chamfer" so severely as to actually shorten the case OAL without creating a good, sharp leather hole punch? (Spinning that in steel wool amounts to a prudent safety precaution, if there are small children around.) Besides, isn't chamfering a grossly inefficient way to shorten a case even slightly?
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I guess .015 after the first contact doesn't shorten the case length. My steel wool is captive in after I wrap it around the brush with tape, I only d the very end and not down in the neck. My cases are the same length after chamfering there is no loss of length. The only thing I can't fix is stupid......... done.... Jim
 

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