chamber question

[rebs]

I have a Tikka T3x varmint in 223 cal. I sized, trimmed and primed the once fired LC brass and it slides right in my Lyman case gauge perfectly.
But when I checked to see if it would fit in my Tikka chamber it is quite hard to close the bolt. What would cause this ?
I am thinking if the shoulder wasn't bumped back far enough it wouldn't fit in the case gauge, right ?

 

[fkimble@charter.net]

Most likely is shoulder needs another thou or two bump or you need a smallbase die to reduce the diameter just ahead of the case head. You have a regular die so I would suggest 1/8 turn clockwise of the sizer die an try a couple cases to see if that takes care of the problem. As die goes down, it pushes the shoulder back once contact is made and it also reduces diameter above the case head due to the taper of the case profile and die internal cut. This assumes problem is prior to bullet seating. After bullet seating could be bullet hitting rifling, seated too long.

Frank.

 

[jepp2]

You have a regular die so I would suggest 1/8 turn clockwise of the sizer die an try a couple cases to see if that takes care of the problem.

1/8 of a turn is an additional 0.008" shoulder set back. Pretty big adjustment.

 

[Bill K]

Try turning you die is every so slightly and see if it bumps the should back, ever so lightly. If that works, even with a couple adjustments in depth, fine.
If not then the suggestion of a small base die may be the issue, with the brass base being slightly to large and your standard die not setting it back.

 

[SSL]

Might want to color a case with a Magic Marker and see where contact is made. If on the shoulder, there's your problem. If it is scuffed by the head, small base die sounds to be in order.

 

[Walt Krafft]

Check your rifle and your gage with a "GO" headspace gage.

 

[Uncle Ed]

I have a Tikka T3x varmint in 223 cal. I sized, trimmed and primed the once fired LC brass and it slides right in my Lyman case gauge perfectly.
But when I checked to see if it would fit in my Tikka chamber it is quite hard to close the bolt. What would cause this ?
I am thinking if the shoulder wasn't bumped back far enough it wouldn't fit in the case gauge, right ?

If you are using once fired Lake City brass fired in another chamber you "MAY" need a small base die.

But first size the cases again and pause at the top of the ram stroke for 4 or 5 seconds. This reduces brass spring back after sizing.

Take a few cases that are hard to chamber and color the entire case with a black felt tip marker. Now chamber these cases and see where the rub marks are at. If the black is worn off the shoulder you need to bump the shoulder back more. If the rub marks are on the case body you will need to try the pause method or get a small base die.

Just remember the once fired case wants to spring back to its fired size after sizing. And these cases were not fire formed to "YOUR" chamber. And Lake City brass is very hard and will spring back more than softer .223 cases.

I buy bulk once fired Lake City 5.56 and 7.62 brass and size it the first time with a small base die. Thereafter I size the cases with a standard die after they have been fired in my chamber.

Also remember chambers and dies vary in size, as an example my Lee .223 die will reduce the case body diameter more than my RCBS small base die. And having a Hornady cartridge case headspace gauge like below is very helpful for the proper amount of shoulder bump.

I also use a JP Enterprise case gauge that is smaller in diameter than most other case gauges. I use it to check case diameter after sizing my once fired Lake City brass. If the case fits in the JP Enterprise gauge it will chamber in any rifle.

Below a Wilson, Dillon and JP Enterprise .223/5.56 case gauges with the case placed in base first to show gauge diameter. Wilson and Dillon type case gauges are OK if the case is fired in your rifles chamber and are closer to max SAAMI diameter. Meaning a fired case may drop all the way into the gauge because of its larger diameter. There are videos on YouTube showing the Wilson type gauges and chambering problems with standard type case gauges.

JP Semi-Auto Case Gauge
.223/5.56

---

Optimized for semi-automatic rifles, the second generation JP Semi-Auto Case Gauge guaranties function of your ammo. If it fits our gauge, it will fit even a minimum-depth SAAMI chamber without interference.

Take comfort that your ammo will never hold you back.

---

Features:

• Specially calibrated to ensure function in semi-auto rifles
• Guaranties ammo fit in a minimum-spec SAAMI chamber
• 416 stainless steel construction for wear resistance and greater longevity

 

[divingin]

Also make sure you're lubing your cases sufficiently prior to sizing. Insufficient lube will cause the press to "flex" or stretch, making your cartridge a little longer than it should be.

personally, I prefer to use the chamber of the rifle the ammo will go into as a gauge if at all possible - standalone gauges have no guarantee of jibing with the actual chamber (not saying they usually don't; it just removes one source of error.)

 

[Uncle Ed]

There is a difference between brass fired in your chamber vs range pickup or buying once fired brass like Lake City. And rather than dissembling your bolt or fumbling around with a semi-auto, a minimum diameter case gauge is much faster.

Watch the video below, fired cases and even a damaged case will fit in a Dillow case gauge. You are also better off using a Hornady gauge to check the fired location of the case shoulder and then checking your shoulder bump.

Watch the video below and the difference between a Dillon and JP Enterprise case gauges. I load for two AR-15 rifles and a bolt action savage .223 and the JP Enterprise gauge saves a lot of double work.

The Sheridan case gauge is another case gauge made to a smaller diameter.

 

[abersfelderami]

...... or buy new brass.

 

[jpx2rk]

IF you have a small base die handy, use it on a couple of cases before adjusting your FL die, use your preferred lube and go from there. I have found that on my factory 223 rifles, LEE or RCBS FL dies would work just fine and cases fit fine on 1x surplus I bought. On my 6x45 & 20P barrels/chambers (223 based cartridges), I had the same problem as you, but using a small base die first, and then the normal sizing procedures/dies for those chambers, the brass fits fine except for a few of those stubborn cases. Those I toss as it eliminates a small PITA.

 

[rebs]

I found the problem, the neck will not go in the case gauge or the rifle chamber. Out of 50 rounds loaded there are 10 that are like this. Does anyone have any thought on what caused this ?

 

[txtaxman]

I have a Tikka T3x varmint in 223 cal. I sized, trimmed and primed the once fired LC brass and it slides right in my Lyman case gauge perfectly.
But when I checked to see if it would fit in my Tikka chamber it is quite hard to close the bolt. What would cause this ?
I am thinking if the shoulder wasn't bumped back far enough it wouldn't fit in the case gauge, right ?

I found the problem, the neck will not go in the case gauge or the rifle chamber. Out of 50 rounds loaded there are 10 that are like this. Does anyone have any thought on what caused this ?

It might help to know what die you are using to size your cases.
From the info provided, it sounds as if you are using a die set up that does not size the neck all the way to the shoulder. Bushing dies are known not to size the neck all the way to the shoulder.

 

[rebs]

Im use a standard RCBS 223 die. Only about 10 out of 50 have this problem

 

[txtaxman]

Im use a standard RCBS 223 die. Only about 10 out of 50 have this problem

It is likely that your sizing die needs to be turned in a small fraction of a turn. Some cases resist sizing more than others because of differences in brass hardness or case lube.

Is there a gap between the shell holder and the die at the top of the sizing stroke? Measure the gap with a feeler gauge. I'd bet it is more for the problem cases than the others.

What happens when you turn the sizing die in enough to ensure hard contact between the shell holder and the die at the top of the stroke?

With a caliper, you should be able to measure the difference between how much the good cases and problem cases protrude from your case gauge. By the way, what brand is your case gauge?

 

[rebs]

It is likely that your sizing die needs to be turned in a small fraction of a turn. Some cases resist sizing more than others because of differences in brass hardness or case lube.

Is there a gap between the shell holder and the die at the top of the sizing stroke? Measure the gap with a feeler gauge. I'd bet it is more for the problem cases than the others.

What happens when you turn the sizing die in enough to ensure hard contact between the shell holder and the die at the top of the stroke?

With a caliper, you should be able to measure the difference between how much the good cases and problem cases protrude from your case gauge. By the way, what brand is your case gauge?

My Case gauge is a Lyman

 

[Richard Jones]

Did you use a marker or Dykem to see where it was binding? Maybe some pics?

(Per post # 5)

 

[K22]

In your first post you said the case "slides into my Lyman Case Gauge perfectly."

In a subsequent post you said "the neck will not go into the case gauge".

This seems contradictory. Anyway, I'll offer some comments:

Save yourself a lot of grief - start with new (unfired) cases and size them properly.

If the rifle head space is set correctly, almost all chambering problems come from not properly sizing the case. I've seen faulty extractor systems on the newer Rem 700's that cause chambering problems but Tikka extractor systems are much superior and do not cause that kind of problem.

A standard RCBS full sizing die is fully capable of producing reliable sizing. I've been using the same one for almost 50 years. The key is to now how to set it up properly but that's a topic for other post.

 

[rebs]

In your first post you said the case "slides into my Lyman Case Gauge perfectly."

In a subsequent post you said "the neck will not go into the case gauge".

This seems contradictory. Anyway, I'll offer some comments:

Save yourself a lot of grief - start with new (unfired) cases and size them properly.

If the rifle head space is set correctly, almost all chambering problems come from not properly sizing the case. I've seen faulty extractor systems on the newer Rem 700's that cause chambering problems but Tikka extractor systems are much superior and do not cause that kind of problem.

A standard RCBS full sizing die is fully capable of producing reliable sizing. I've been using the same one for almost 50 years. The key is to now how to set it up properly but that's a topic for other post.

I said out of 50 only about10 will not chamber, the neck will not go in the case gauge. The rest of them go in the case gauge perfectly and do chamber perfectly. The bullets are Hornady 55 gr soft points, could some of them be out of spec and be stretching the case neck too big ? I measured the bullets and they are .224 and the case neck with bullet seated is .254 to .256

 

[fkimble@charter.net]

Sounds like your seater die body may be screwd in just a little too much and is causing the shoulder/body junction to slightly mushroom out. Usually you can feel this with your fingers just by rubbing your fingers toward the mouth end of the case. Back out your seater die a half turn and then readjust the seater stem inward to give desired seating. Longer cases will cause the problem, especially if your on the hairly edge.

Frank