chamber cleaning

[woolenmammoth]

I was out testing some new 6br loads this weekend. My boreguide has an oring on it, but Im getting butch's into the chamber. When I got home, puzzled with some fliers, I went through my brass and sure enough, some of the cases are greasy, no doubt, from bore cleaner that made its way into the chamber (this was all new brass).

This leads me to what is an absurdly simple question, but I gotta ask...

how do you clean your chamber dry after bore cleaning so the brass can make a good seal against the chamber wall? Is this brake cleaner on a bore mop, or alchohol on a bore mop?

Figured I ask the experts.

thanks!

 

[jonbearman]

Wash the chamber out barrel down with any brake clean in a well ventilated area and blow it out or patch it out and then lightly oil the bore because the brakeclean will dry it out.Dont get it on your stock.Use the straw to direct it into the chamber and barrel.By the way if you are careful like me you will never ruin your stock unlees you tip it up before it evaporates. Just be diligent about keeping the barrel down in a bucket with rags in it to allow it to evaporate slowly outside.Dont spray it on the ground.

 

[Eddie Harren]

Bore mop of a size that will fit your chamber tightly. Use rubbing alcolhol. It will evaporate and leave nothing behind. Brake clean, Carb clean and some others is hard on stock finish.

 

[OldDoug]

Great question! Heavy lube left on loaded rounds and wet chamber isn't good for accuracy.

I keep a Dewey lug cleaning rod and a brass pistol rod with a 30 cal brush on it with my cleaning gear. After cleaning the bore i use a patch over the 30 cal brush to dry the chamber and then clean the lug/locking area with a patch over the dental sponge on the Dewey liug cleaner. This is always with my range cleaning gear and when shooting prairie dogs.

The brass brush is great for removing carbon ring in the chamber forward of the case mouth.

Best cartridge development doesn't need a juicy chamber.

Old Doug

 

[artbosco]

how do you clean your chamber?

As recommended by Thomas [Speedy] Gonzalez: http://benchrest.netfirms.com/Barrel%20Break-In.htm [paragraph "C" step 4], I use Lighter Fluid. Just in the chamber with a bore mop or a very large patch. It cleans and then evaporates very quickly.

 

[dreever]

lighter fluid gets my vote also on a 3 inch square patch wrapped around a Sinclair bore mop. Cleans and lubricates at the same time. What's recommended for Jewell triggers too.

Danny

 

[jnyfeler]

I clean the chamber with Butch's, just like I do the bore. I put a .30 cal. patch over a test-tube-cleaning brush (plastic bristles). First a wet patch, then a dry patch.

Jeff

 

[Nodak7mm]

Just like Doc Ed & LE do....

+ 1 on the Bore Mop (with a single large patch wrapped around) using a short cleaning rod with ISO from the grocery store.....

Rod

 

[Larryh128]

Another spray option is electronic cleaner, cuts everything fast, drys fast, & is safe on MOST surfaces. Brake cleaner works well but is harsher. We use electronic cleaner on all types of plastics will no ill effects. It's made by sevearl companies includeing CRC but I'm currently useing a product from Wurth/Service Supply that is less $ & works as well.

 

[queen_stick]

good topic/discussion! This is something that I think a lot of people over look.

most cleaners will leave some sort of residue, even when it's swabbed/patched out. That film (or residue) prevents the brass from "grabbing" the chamber walls, and creates excessive pressure on the case head. It's critical to get that chamber squeaky clean!

I haven't thought about using electronic cleaner.. I'm probably going to try that.
Another option that works well, but is a little pricey, is automotive "paint prep" which is basically a wax and grease remover. Any body guy will have some of this layin' around somewhere

 

[woolenmammoth]

thanks for all the replies everyone. It is surprising I havent seen more people discussing this one, looking at my targets and then looking at the casings that had bore cleaner on them, its pretty critical to get that chamber dry again... Going to try alcohol first next time and see where it gets me. thanks again!

 

[Gman]

Acetone on a bore mop has worked for me.

 

[Eddie Harren]

Acetone wreaks havoc on stock finishes and sometimes paint jobs.

 

[BillPa]

I do pretty much the same as the others, a short pistol rod, a nylon brush wrapped with a patch and Butch's. It gets into those areas "protected" by a bore guide especially the gap space, the area of the chamber from the end of the case mouth to the freebore then the same brush-patch tool to lightly oil the chamber then the rifle stored muzzle down. Prior to firing I'll patch out the chamber with denatured alcohol.

Bill

 

[people]

I just use a dry patch on a mop.

 

[4xforfun]

+1 on the mop. large patch, and break cleaner.

 

[fdshuster]

Like unlubed bolt lugs, there are also a lot of wet chambers out there. Many of those who want to take a closeup look at their bores with my Hawkeye tell me that their bores are dry before I go in with the 'scope. In more than half the time I see wet chambers. The problem is that if a patch is small enough to go down the bore, it's too small to make contact with the chamber walls, and they can remain wet. I use a pistol cleaning rod with an oversize patch, with a little brake cleaner, or a good bore mop that also does the job. Excellent subject to bring up.

 

[Nomo4me]

I keep a short pistol cleaning rod in my range box with a 30 cal bronze brush on it. Whenever I pull the bore guide I stick a fresh cleaning patch on the brush and swab out the chamber pretty well with the dry patch. I use only Patchout for my cleaning (bronze brush now and then to keep the carbon ring down) and not too worried about lube properties of any trace residue in the chamber.

 

[Lee308]

Hi Guys,just a quick question.
Would circuit board cleaner do the same job as brake cleaner or are the solvents too harsh to use in a stainless barrel?
I haven't tried either but I can acquire circuit board cleaner a lot cheaper than brake cleaner as it is readily available from work.

 

[BoydAllen]

I use a Sinclair chamber rod, an old bore brush and a strip of paper towel, wrapped in a cone shape, from in front of the brush, so that it is loose and quite a bit oversized for the chamber. Being careful to get it started straight, I push it as far forward as it will go, and give it 2-3 twists, while maintaining strong forward pressure. The brush never makes contact with the barrel. I then remove the rod, reverse the piece of paper towel, exposing a clean side, and repeat. Cleaning with Butch's, I don't find that I need to use a solvent to dry the chamber. After I have done this, I look down the bore to check for any paper towel pieces that might have been left behind. If there are any (usually not) I run a patch through and recheck. IMO the problem with chamber mops is that they are reused after they have picked up some solvent, that is carried back into the chamber. I don't use them. I also find that the slight abrasiveness of dry paper toweling helps remove powder fouling from the chamber, without doing any damage. The reason that I use an old chamber brush is that they have a brass core with a looped end. I don't particularly like the idea of putting something that has a steel core and/or a cut end into my chamber.