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Case Trimmer Not Cutting Well

I have a Lyman case trimmer like this one:

opplanet-lyman-universal-trimmer.jpg


I have to put a lot of pressure in towards the cutter to get it to remove brass. It will then cut, but it also flattens out a ring of almost removed material like a burr on the rim of the mouth. That rim of a burr has to be removed with a chamfer tool.

Is my technique wrong, or is the cutter dull?

Thank you!

Andy
 
Andy , I have the same trimmer . I use mine without the pilot . it cuts much better . when I used a pilot , the burr would go between the cutter and the pilot making it slow cutting and hard to pull the cutter away from the brass case . give it a try I think this will help you .
 
I started with that same trimmer. Mine dates to the early '70's. Sounds like your cutter is dull. When I started in Benchrest I switched to the Wilson. I plagued myself for over 20 years living with the poor design of the Lyman.
 
titanxt

I have the same trimmer from the 1970s and it is grey, I replaced the original cutter with a upgraded carbide unit and it cuts much better. For some reason as you push in and cut with this trimmer a peened sharp edge is created inside and outside the case mouth. If the case is hard to pull off the pilot then use your deburring tool before trimming as this cuts down on the brass sprew that forms inside and outside the case mouth.

I also have the Lee hand trimmers as backups and when pressing hard like on the Lyman the same thing happens. I think both trimmers have too much flat surface behind the cutting edge touching the case mouth and it flattens the case mouth.

Bottom line the harder you press on the case mouth while cutting the worse the problem gets, so spin the handle faster and do not press as hard.
 
I wish I would have keep my Wilson trimmer. Instead of buying a new cutter I bought a RCBS trimmer which I don't like. Similar problem getting the mandrel into the neck so the cutter made contact. The cases were to tight of a fit on the cutter mandrel. I put motor oil on the mandrel or case i.D. and things were better. Try trimming as fired for a lose fit.
 
I just sold my WFT .308 trimmer for a Giraud Tri Way. WFT works great and is a million times easier and quicker than a hand trimmer. With the WFT you still have to chamfer and debur after trimming. The Giraud Tri Way trims, chamfers and deburs all at once. Worth the few more dollars.
 
This is the first time I have tried to post a link. Hope it works. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gqLncXdCJY

I have been using the, "Dead On Case Trimmer" for about 4 months and couldn't be happier. It's fast and the, "trim" is very smooth.
 
LHSmith said:
I started with that same trimmer. Mine dates to the early '70's. Sounds like your cutter is dull. When I started in Benchrest I switched to the Wilson. I plagued myself for over 20 years living with the poor design of the Lyman.

I have experienced LH's pain and found the same cure that he did. If you want consistency and accuracy in trimming, a Redding and Wilson (with the mic and other more expensive trimmers) will provide that accuracy and you'll never look back. That Lyman PISSED ME OFF so much that I GAVE it away.

Alex
 
My first trimmer was the Lyman pictured, but it was older and gray colored. The ridge that you are describing was from the cutter being dull. Other than the dull cutter I never had any issues with that trimmer except an occasional problem with the pilot/case neck fit. All of my pilots eventually found there way into a drill to get polished! I replaced the original cutter with a carbide one and it worked fine.

I've since moved on to the Wilson, as all tricked out by Sinclair. I also use a Giraud on my higher volume stuff. All the good things that you hear about either of these is true!
 
Anyone use the Lee cutters with the shell holder setup. Seems they are pretty precise with how they work and are pretty fast. Might be an option for the OP....Or I could be way off in Plutoville
 

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