Carbon Fouled barrel??

[Raptor]

Hey guys, the accuracy had started to drop off with my 6BRX and I have checked everything and all is well and tight. I have been using the liquid form of wipe out and it seemed to clean fine but after reading about "Carbon Fouling" I tried some JBs on the barrrel and I just can't seem to get it to stop coming out coal black. My normal cleaning regimen is to use about 10 strokes of Hoppies then switch to Wipe Out until I see no blue on the patch.

To try to get out the carbon I have been scurbbing it with JBs and a patch only. But then went to a 22cal brush with JBs on a patch and tired that. I don't know the best way to clean the throat and barrel when it seems to be fouled so bad. Is it normal when using JBs to keep getting jet black patches??? WHat is the best way to clean using JBs??? And how will I know when I have it clean???Thanks guys!!!!

 

[Ing. Michael W. Mayerl]

Hey guys, the accuracy had started to drop off with my 6BRX and I have checked everything and all is well and tight. I have been using the liquid form of wipe out and it seemed to clean fine but after reading about "Carbon Fouling" I tried some JBs on the barrrel and I just can't seem to get it to stop coming out coal black. My normal cleaning regimen is to use about 10 strokes of Hoppies then switch to Wipe Out until I see no blue on the patch.

To try to get out the carbon I have been scurbbing it with JBs and a patch only. But then went to a 22cal brush with JBs on a patch and tired that. I don't know the best way to clean the throat and barrel when it seems to be fouled so bad. Is it normal when using JBs to keep getting jet black patches??? WHat is the best way to clean using JBs??? And how will I know when I have it clean???Thanks guys!!!!

Take a patch with JB and start to polish: 5-10x stroke the first 4" before the throat. Than 5-10x first 8" before the throat etc... And stop 1" before reaching the muzzle. Last step: 5-10x from chamber to muzzle - remove the patch and again from chamber to muzzle.
And in the end: first a patch with some oil and clean the barrel / chamber. Than patch without anything to get it clean.
So the rear of the barrel gets more polished than muzzle area and no risk to ruin the barrel.
A patch with JB is always dirty. Important is a visible clean barrel.

This cleaning technique is also good when break in a new barrel after 5 rounds within the first 30 rounds. It gets very smooth and copper fouling is reduced dramaticaly.

 

[FergusBailey]

Over the years, I have tried a lot of variations on cleaning, but have found that the only way to really move carbon fouling is with a brush and a good solvent. I have tried nylon brushes, but never found one I thought worked as well as bronze, so stick to bronze brushes. Generally, I clean the bore with solvent and a brush every 15 to 20 rounds. I find Hoppies to be a poor solvent compared to some of the modern options available, though never used Wipeout, so cannot comment on this. I find TM Solution to be a good choice for copper and carbon fouling, and also like the Boretech solvents.

JB or Iosso will never come out without some black being apparent on the patch, but you will notice the intensity reducing from the very first few to the subsequent patches. Unfortunately, the only way to really know how well your barrels are clean is with a bore scope. Once you see performance drop off on the target, a lot of damage is already done.

 

[gmorganal]

Yes, it is normal to get a black patch when using JBs or Iossa to clean your barrel. That is not an indicator of the condition of your bore. Another good method for cleaning carbon out of your barrel is to saturate a tight fitting nylon brush with JBs or Iossa and short stroke it in your barrel. You also need to make sure that get the carbon ring out that is between the end of your case mouth and the beginning of the lead. A really bad carbon ring can pinch the mouth of your cases and cause excess tension of the bullet. You can get this out by twisting a nylon brush in the spot with one of the above-named products. A borescope is a great help.

 

[Eddie Harren]

If your barrel is stainless steel, take a patch with JB on it, and rub the outside of the barrel. You will see that the patch turns black. I don't suspect that there is much carbon on the outside of the barrel.

 

[M-61]

March 08, 2013 I had asked about "CLEANING BRUSHES" and received a lot of good info. If you search for that post there will be info that you may find it useful

 

[Bob3700]

To keep carbon in check, get some Slip 2000 carbon cutter. Wet a couple of patches and make sure the bore is wet. Then wet a bronze brush and make about ten passes. Let it sit of awhile. Then come back and dry patch out. You will see the carbon come out on your dry patches.

Repeat until patches are pretty clean. You have to give the solvent a chance to get under the carbon and detach it from the steel.

Rem clean or JB after that to polish the bore.

Bob

 

[Raptor]

Thanks for all the good info guys!! I really appreciate the info!

 

[jonbearman]

I did a test with slip 2000 cleaner and soaked a somewhat carbon fouled ar15 bolt(they get carbon build up at the rear surface of the bolt.After soaking I tried brushing it with more clean slip 2000 and it didnt do anything,even with a stainless scrub brush,the stuff is a hoax and I called the folks that make and distribute this miracle chemical and they would not call me back.That pretty much explains the difference between a reputable company and basically a telemarketer with an idea to sell and promote a product that does nothing.I use JB and Iosso with good results to help keep the carbon in check.I also use montana 50bmg solvent and their regular solvent with light brushing with really good results.

 

[jdb]

I use Bore Tech C-4 carbon remover on everything, bores, brakes, inside cases. It works great!

 

[47WillysGuy]

Used Sea Foam Fuel Additive(get it at Napa) on a 220 Swift that had been neglected and didn't have the accuracy it used to. Took 7 days of soaking the barrel, a couple of loose patches in the morning before work, couple of tight patches in the evening. After the seventh day had no more black patches. Eventually, it will come clean.

 

[Bob3700]

Slip 2000 and a brush is all I use for carbon removal and my bore scope shows that it really works inside my LR match barrels.

Can't speak to your carbon buildup on an AR carrier. Maybe the difference between a smooth stainless surface and a mil finished steel part.

Basically, the solvent is a surfficant like a dish washing liquid. It needs time to get under the carbon in order to break the bond.

Sorry your results were not the same as mine but that is not uncommon with cleaning chemicals and techniques. Everybody has a "best recipe" that they swear by.

Bob

 

[Steve Blair]

I use Bore Tech C-4 carbon remover on everything, bores, brakes, inside cases. It works great!

[br]
+1

 

[LawrenceHanson]

I use a bore scope to determine when my bore is clean. I have tried many different solvents to remove carbon fouling and have determined that most of them are ineffective. Bore Tech C-4 was a failure and I gave it away after a few experiences with it. On the other hand, Bore tech Eliminator is a very good copper and carbon solvent and I use it exclusively, unless I encounter stubborn carbon fouling. In that case I will scour the bore with a mild abrasive such as JB or IOSSO bore cleaners.

Prior to owning a bore scope, I would judge the removal of carbon fouling by the "feel" of the patch as is was pushed down the bore. After scouring with JBs I would brush the bore with a bronze brush and finish with patches of Hoppes #9 cut with Kroil. I concluded that the carbon had been removed when repeated applications of JBs and solvent produced light grey patches. Now that I have a bore scope, I can say that my method was effective, and this is the same method that I use to this day.

LE Hanson

 

[Steve Blair]

I use a bore scope to determine when my bore is clean. I have tried many different solvents to remove carbon fouling and have determined that most of them are ineffective. Bore Tech C-4 was a failure and I gave it away after a few experiences with it. On the other hand, Bore tech Eliminator is a very good copper and carbon solvent and I use it exclusively, unless I encounter stubborn carbon fouling. In that case I will scour the bore with a mild abrasive such as JB or IOSSO bore cleaners.

Prior to owning a bore scope, I would judge the removal of carbon fouling by the "feel" of the patch as is was pushed down the bore. After scouring with JBs I would brush the bore with a bronze brush and finish with patches of Hoppes #9 cut with Kroil. I concluded that the carbon had been removed when repeated applications of JBs and solvent produced light grey patches. Now that I have a bore scope, I can say that my method was effective, and this is the same method that I use to this day.

LE Hanson

[br]
I, too, have a bore scope, Larry. Bore Tech C4 works for me. Too bad it didn't for you.

 

[LawrenceHanson]

Steve:

Too bad you cannot accept an opposing opinion.

Larry

 

[Steve Blair]

Steve:

Too bad you cannot accept an opposing opinion.

Larry

[br]
Too bad you don't see the irony in your own statement.

 

[BigDMT]

Ain't no patches alone gonna get all the carbon. Got to use a brush. And throw all your Hoppes in the trash and never look back.

For carbon, I have two words that will help you out a lot... "Remington 40X"

For copper, "pro shot copper solvent".

Then I usually finish up with a session of "wipe out" if storing a rifle because it leaves a protective residue in the bore

 

[fredhorace77]

this might be a stupid question...but why doesnt someone make a ultra sonic cleaner that will remove carbon from the inside of the barrel...ive used hornadys ultra sonic cleaner and it does an awesome job of removing carbon from brass....why wouldnt this work for barrels also?

 

[BigDMT]

this might be a stupid question...but why doesnt someone make a ultra sonic cleaner that will remove carbon from the inside of the barrel...ive used hornadys ultra sonic cleaner and it does an awesome job of removing carbon from brass....why wouldnt this work for barrels also?

It would work. Main drawback would be having to tear your rifle completely apart or screw your barrel off to drop it in a tub of solvent every time you wanted to clean it.

And it would probably take a good bit longer to clean the barrel than it does with normal solvent/patch/brush methods.