Carbon cleaning
- Thread starter itchyTF
- Start date
ballistic64
Silver $$ Contributor
Bore Tech C4
CARB-OUT from SharpShoot-R products. NOT carb out from auto parts stores! https://sharpshootr.com/carb-out/
If you are only trying to clean the carbon, the I agree on the Bore Tech. It will take a while, and it does dry in a way that makes the patches a bit tough to push through after the proper dwell time. I you want to completely flush (including copper that you likely want to keep) the barrel then use Wipe-Out.
AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
C4 does not work for me on hard cooked on carbon, does not even touch it. Soaking, brushing, just got some exercise. Hawkeye does not lie. The powder charge was 44g of R#15 with a 155, 50 shots.
. It is the fastest and best way IME/IMO.AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
I have six dozen new bronze bristle brushes from Sinclair, still did not get the carbon out!
I dare say you are doing something incorrectly. I will give the barrel 25 full length strokes, a patch to push out loose fouling, repeat, patch, repeat then go after copper with patches. If you are referring to hard carbon in the end of the neck of the chamber or freebore I get that out with a one caliber oversized bronze brush on a chamber length rod. I push it into the beginning of the rifling while twisting and withdraw while twisting. After a few passes I can short stroke that area with the same brush. I wet the brushes with carbon cleaner du jour (I use Bore-Tech C4 but I don't think it has any advantages over the others). If the carbon is long standing you can get it out with the above then use an oversize nylon brush with a light coat of Iosso paste using the same motions. I have never had this approach fail; I confirm my cleanings/ evaluate the throat periodically with a Hawkeye.
Robin
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AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
Robin, seems this carbon is so hard and baked on, and was done in short order. I am very frustrated.
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I do much a similar thing (different cleaner being Wipe Out or CLR) and get quite clean results. However . . .
This last time that I check it out with my bore scope, I found this narrow hard carbon ring in the free bore at a location I can't explain. My cleaning has cleaned the carbon in front and in back of it, but I can't seem to even scratch it a little. I put one of my prepped cases in to get an idea of the ring's relation to a case and can't figure out why it formed there since all my cases are always trimmed to the same length before charging.
Anyone have any idea's?
It may not be a carbon surface deposit but metal discoloration or perhaps it is artifactual. Help orient me.... I presume the end of the chamber neck is the very sharp dark line ahead of the case mouth in the lower picture? Can you get a long 'needle tip' probe with a very short right angle at the end into that area. If you can you should be able to 'sound' it and determine if there is a raised carbon ring versus metal discoloration/shadowing artifact on the scope.
Robin
Robin
AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
Robin, you are dealing with a barrel with minor carbon fouling, which your method is excellent in dealing with. I am dealing with hard caked on carbon in two 308's with about 6" of the bore. I am using 5 micron al oxide mixed in honing oil, which is about 3-5x more abrasive than Isso.
Robin, I apologize for sounding so abrasive. My frustration is not intended at you, but my self and this situation.
Both of these 308 barrels are kriegers, really fine shooting barrels. One barrel has 50 rounds on it and the other has 100. The barrel with 50 rounds on it was shot with R#15, the other barrel was shot with 15 and Varget. The bore is not just discolored but has depth in the carbon fouling.
Regular good bronze bristle brushes did NOTHING, along with C4 and Montana extreme solvent. The 5 Micron Al oxide is working and thinning the fouling, starting to look like pepper on the grooves further up in the barrel, but 5 Micron Al oxide will cut metal.
I have not seen this in other calibers, so I am banging my head on the wall at this point. I have corked the barrels and have a barrel full of Free All penetrating oil at this point.
I am thinking that some kind of engine cleaner that is made to remove the carbon off the tops of pistons or intake valves maybe worth looking into, but this stuff is really nasty health wise.
Robin, I apologize for sounding so abrasive. My frustration is not intended at you, but my self and this situation.
Both of these 308 barrels are kriegers, really fine shooting barrels. One barrel has 50 rounds on it and the other has 100. The barrel with 50 rounds on it was shot with R#15, the other barrel was shot with 15 and Varget. The bore is not just discolored but has depth in the carbon fouling.
Regular good bronze bristle brushes did NOTHING, along with C4 and Montana extreme solvent. The 5 Micron Al oxide is working and thinning the fouling, starting to look like pepper on the grooves further up in the barrel, but 5 Micron Al oxide will cut metal.
I have not seen this in other calibers, so I am banging my head on the wall at this point. I have corked the barrels and have a barrel full of Free All penetrating oil at this point.
I am thinking that some kind of engine cleaner that is made to remove the carbon off the tops of pistons or intake valves maybe worth looking into, but this stuff is really nasty health wise.
I thought about discoloration, but it does seem to be raised.
No. The ring is more or less in the middle between the case mouth and the end of the chamber neck.
I might be able to try a dental tool I have that I might be able to slide in there. I'll see what I can to confirm whether or not it's raised.
I have not tried Wynn's.
At one time Mercury Outboard and other, often two stroke, engine cleaners, Quicksilver had unmatched reputations. Often in a mix as with Kroil.
I avoid mixing brands because as with chlorine (degreaser Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner products) and ammonia (copper cleaners) I can be making war gasses.
My own experience is that capitalism works and the various gun specific products catch up with innovation and so are as good as any. That assumes properly and patiently chosen and applied. Copper removers may not touch carbon and vice versa. Cowboy action cleaners work better for lead, grease and carbon. Copper cleaners are pretty specific too. Ultrasonic with appropriate chemicals to clean what is actually present and enough time often works too. I'm in no hurry so I soak a lot and brush a little works for me. I do have couple Hawkeye Borescopes to guide me in being specific and working with one layer at a time.
Robin,
My tool I was thinking of doesn't quite fit, so I'll have to figure something else out. But, as I further look at this photo, I think I figured out what we're looking at. I'd bet it's the small "second shoulder" that's at the neck junction where the freebore begins. And since it has a taper (like the "first shoulder"), it may simply be that angle making it look dark. But it still looks like a carbon build up on that shoulder to me.
BTW: this is a Krieger barrel
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itchyTF
Gold $$ Contributor
I have been toying with the idea of making a carbon ring "cutter" by using a brass rod and turning the end down to 1 or 2 thou less than the neck diameter. Then maybe filing notches around on the corner so they would act as cutters. Slip it in and turn by hand. The geometry of the notches might require some experimentation. What do you think?
Might be able to just tap the rod and break the ring. ??
Might be able to just tap the rod and break the ring. ??
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