carbide bushings

[eddyverhoeven]

I would like to get carbide bushings to fit in the Redding competition neck size die for 6BR, 7mmRUM and .308. I've tried at Sinclair's but they only offer those in size up to .2595". Does somebody know where I can get these larger bushings? Exact sizes will be specified.

Thanks

Ed

 

[Forum Boss]

Redding doesn't sell carbide but they do sell Titanium Nitride,gold) bushings which also work without lube. They offer a full range in .001" increments. Expensive though...

 

[NateHaler]

expensive is a relative term. Bruno sells the Redding TiN bushings for $15.95 each.

Sinclair sells their carbide 6mm bushings for $33 each. Now THAT's expensive.

BTW, eddie V, if you need a Sinclair carbide 0.2580", I've got an extra, and I'd sell it for $26.00 shipped USPS First Class.

 

[eddyverhoeven]

Tx Nate but only sizes,2640" through .2660" and .3340" - .3350"

will do,6mmBR and .308Win)

evenyually I could also use .2480" - .2490" - .2500",220 Swift)
.3140",7mm Vom Hofe and 7mm RUM)
and .3330",30-378 Wea.Mag.)

Greetz

Ed

 

[Travelor]

Have you tried the Redding Nitride bushings? I have them and have not problems at all with them. One thing to remember is DO NOT USE LUBE on the necks. I did at first,0ld habits die hard!) and it caused grit to stay in the die and lightly scored the necks. I have since cleaned the bushings and stopped using lube. Now they work perfectly and no scoring.

George

 

[butchlambert]

I have carbide bushings from .240-244, 260, 286, .3275, and .331.
Butch

 

[liljoebrshooter]

I asked the late Skip Otto last year at the Super Shoot why he didn't have more sizes of bushing. I believe he said he had to order 100 of the same size to get that price. He said that's why he never carried any of the odd sizes.

Joe

 

[butchlambert]

Skip was right. I used to carry a large line of bushings. I tried to please too many people on sizes. I'm not blaming anybody, it was just a mistake on my part. The above mentioned bushings are what I have left to sell.
Butch

 

[Travelor]

Question guys - I have the Nitride bushings and am having problems with them scratching the case necks. I clean the necks with WD40 to get the carbine off and then thoroughly wipe the WD40 from them, but still getting longitudal scratches.

I have thoroughly cleaned the dies and do not lube the cases. After use I get a carbon-like residue off the die.

????

George

 

[butchlambert]

You definitely need carbide bushings if you can find your size. They do not scratch necks and you don't need to lube them first.
Butch

 

[kitsap]

Question guys - I have the Nitride bushings and am having problems with them scratching the case necks. I clean the necks with WD40 to get the carbine off and then thoroughly wipe the WD40 from them, but still getting longitudal scratches.

I have thoroughly cleaned the dies and do not lube the cases. After use I get a carbon-like residue off the die.

????

George

George,

I will second the "carbide is the way to go" recommendation if you can find the size you need. The nitride bushings are hard but they tend to have grit, dirt, and cartridge brass fuse to the surface. To the point of carrying over to the next case and scratching the neck. This material seems to gather right at the bottom bevel of the bushing and scratch the full length of the neck. The only solution I have found is to thoroughly clean/polish the bevel and interior of the nitride bushing with 0000 steel wool. Cleaning the necks before sizing helps and I use a small amount of Imperial sizing wax with either the carbide or nitride bushing. On the good side, the scratches are usually very shallow and do not do a great deal of harm.

 

[eddyverhoeven]

Question guys - I have the Nitride bushings and am having problems with them scratching the case necks. I clean the necks with WD40 to get the carbine off and then thoroughly wipe the WD40 from them, but still getting longitudal scratches.

I have thoroughly cleaned the dies and do not lube the cases. After use I get a carbon-like residue off the die.

????

George

This is the same problem why I started this topic

Ed

 

[Bobs243Ackley]

Hi Guys,

Here is a tip that I used several years ago when I had some dies, that were were hard chrome plated, and scratching my brass deeply. Nothing had worked, and I had Fred Sinclair look at the dies, and brass, before I had started working at Sinclair. He suggested that I use gun cleaning solvent to clean the dies thoroughly. I used Sweets to go after the minute build-up of brass, and Shooters Choice to get rid of the carbon build up. The dies worked perfectly after this cleaning, and I always clean my dies several times a year, using the newer products that we have available to us that we did not have 15 years ago when I ran into this problem. In case anyone is wondering what kind of dies these were, they were the old Pacific Dura-Chrome dies. I am still using these dies today because of this tip from Fred Sinclair. With any luck, it will prove to be useful to all of you.

Cordially,
Bob Blaine

 

[blaster4]

what about the Redding Stainless bushings. are there any problems with them?

 

[dantec]

as bushing you can get

steel bushing that made in high carbon steel, 1% or close with chromium alloy to get high hardeness ) hardness is in 60 to 62 hrc

stainless steel bushing that a tool steel alloy with more carbon, chromium, more to make stainless effect ) and molydeum and some time vandium hardness is close to the same as steel bushing but the stainless

carbide, they are made in full carbide hardness is the carbide hardness and that closely self lubricating so no need of lub

coated bushing you can get bushing with TI nitrated, yellow ) th emost commun, carbo nirated titanium, purple ) that more hard and high performance that the yellow coating and carbo aluminium oxyde - look as shimmy white coating ) that the harder coating but that use more for light alloy cutting

trace on neck came from galling of brass inside of the bushing, the cooper remover way is a way to solve the problem

I use ball bearing small cup with moly powder, 1/16 ball size ) to lubricate my neck before to size and get any problem with steel bushing, this items is available from Neco as original product or can be located from Sinclair too or can be made esay with ocal supllier, ball bearing from supllier for tumbling equipement and moly powder from Bel ray or any other company )

good shooting and enjoy belgium wafles for Eddy

DAN TEC

 

[eddyverhoeven]

as bushing you can get

steel bushing that made in high carbon steel, 1% or close with chromium alloy to get high hardeness ) hardness is in 60 to 62 hrc

stainless steel bushing that a tool steel alloy with more carbon, chromium, more to make stainless effect ) and molydeum and some time vandium hardness is close to the same as steel bushing but the stainless

carbide, they are made in full carbide hardness is the carbide hardness and that closely self lubricating so no need of lub

coated bushing you can get bushing with TI nitrated, yellow ) th emost commun, carbo nirated titanium, purple ) that more hard and high performance that the yellow coating and carbo aluminium oxyde - look as shimmy white coating ) that the harder coating but that use more for light alloy cutting

trace on neck came from galling of brass inside of the bushing, the cooper remover way is a way to solve the problem

I use ball bearing small cup with moly powder, 1/16 ball size ) to lubricate my neck before to size and get any problem with steel bushing, this items is available from Neco as original product or can be located from Sinclair too or can be made esay with ocal supllier, ball bearing from supllier for tumbling equipement and moly powder from Bel ray or any other company )

good shooting and enjoy belgium wafles for Eddy

DAN TEC

Merci bien Eric

Eddy

 

[chuckw2]

Dantec,
When you use molly and bearings to lubricate the neck before sizing, how does the molly effect the grip on the bullet after seating? Do you have the same amount of grip, or do you use a size smaller bushing due to the molly being so slippery.

Chuck

 

[blaster4]

i FL size every case so i'm not concerned about not lubing the neck since it i have to anyways. so are you saying i can use the stainless steel bushing without the drama associated with the nitride,gold) coated bushing?

--Kevin

 

[dantec]

I shoot most moly bullet but for nackted bullet I use a special set up made with a

pipe in stainless steel lenght 1 inch, 2 inch OD ) blind weld with a 4x4 inch 1/8 stainless plate to make a cup with a rod in the middle look as a decaping rod, OD of the rod is a bit smaller than neck ID to avoid to much contact and ground to be triangular to let just three small linear edge

I put my case neck down on the rod, as a reverse depriming rod ) and because the rod fill the neck I have no ball bearing with moly inside the neck and closely no moly

If necessary I can try to make a picture

for Stainless steel bushing,

the first gain is NO RUST if you compare to regular carbon steel after hardening, hardness is the same or very close between stainless and carbon alloy steel

IF you get a coated one, titanium coating ) the coating itself is stainless, rust proof ) so you jusy gain on lubricant effect of the titatium coating

the thing you must do is to dont forget clean with cooper remover to avoid any trace of galling brass inside the diameter, traces on neck are made by small part of brass stick inside the bushing, BUT carefull check your brass neck cleaness, a cleaning with fine steel wool is not a spend of time before resizing

good shooting

DANTEC

good shooting

DAN TEC

 

[blaster4]

thanks dantec