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Can Lee Collet Sizer be Used after Primers Put in

I primed a bunch of 300 WM cases that have already been FL sized w/ a body sizer. I thought that the cases were collet sized but they were not. My Lee collet sizer pin also decaps. Is there any way to adjust this collet sizer so it does not push the primer out? I guess that I can cut off the part of the decapping pin that pushes out the primer. I don't really want to do that but on the other hand my cases are always decapped w/ a universal decapping die before anything else is done.
 
Figured that I needed to cut off pin, but thought I would ask. My reloading process always starts w/ decapping w/ a universal followed by cleaning the brass, so cutting off the pin is not a problem. It's just the horror of modifying a $4 tool...
 
I cut mine off early on since I decap in another operation, plus
I make my own mandrels of varying sizes to change tension if
needed.
 
I have pulled decapping pins out of Lee mandrels and expanders before, and even put them back in later.

On the collet neck size die my concern would be, because the die really does not support the case body as the neck is squeezed down, without the pin you may be inducing misalignment between the neck and body. I think the concept of the die is to use the pin in the flash hole to keep the case in proper alignment within the die. Yes I know flash holes are not always centered.
 
How many is a bunch? If you bought the primers when they were reasonable, then you can just eat the 3 cents a piece cost and start over. There are always options. 4$ rod vs 3$ primers.
 
I have pulled decapping pins out of Lee mandrels and expanders before, and even put them back in later.

On the collet neck size die my concern would be, because the die really does not support the case body as the neck is squeezed down, without the pin you may be inducing misalignment between the neck and body. I think the concept of the die is to use the pin in the flash hole to keep the case in proper alignment within the die. Yes I know flash holes are not always centered.
I bought 250 primed pulled down 25-06 brass and wanted to prep them for fire forming. I didn't want to punch out a perfectly good primer, so I removed the pin and just set the height of the die to squeeze the necks back down again.

Granted, concentricity might have suffered, but they should be fine for fire forming I believe....

.
 
I bought 250 primed pulled down 25-06 brass and wanted to prep them for fire forming. I didn't want to punch out a perfectly good primer, so I removed the pin and just set the height of the die to squeeze the necks back down again.

Granted, concentricity might have suffered, but they should be fine for fire forming I believe....

.
One could simply make sure the case is pushed fully into the shell holder. That would help a lot.
It's probably not a huge concern.
 
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I have pulled decapping pins out of Lee mandrels and expanders before, and even put them back in later.

On the collet neck size die my concern would be, because the die really does not support the case body as the neck is squeezed down, without the pin you may be inducing misalignment between the neck and body. I think the concept of the die is to use the pin in the flash hole to keep the case in proper alignment within the die. Yes I know flash holes are not always centered.
Not a problem I've found. Actually I was concern about that early on
when I was finding cases with off centered flash holes or oversized to
let it wobble around. But after a few years of using these this way, I'm
pleased with how good and straight they are. I still use the 1/4 turn
and press again method on an annealed case.
 
I've decapped and reused primer hundreds of times.

As far as the original problem.... I collet size and prime in the same step on my single stage so I never end up forgetting the neck.
 

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