Not just the glue- sanding a recoil pad flush on a finished stock has a pretty extreme pucker factor. Trying to hold a $700-$1000 finished stock by hand, a few thousandths of an inch off a whizzing sanding belt- no thank you, I'll pass...If you decide to use glue, I would suggest using painter's tape on the stock to keep glue from damaging the finish.
wrap a pc of Aluminum flashing around the butt keep that butt cleanNot just the glue- sanding a recoil pad flush on a finished stock has a pretty extreme pucker factor. Trying to hold a $700-$1000 finished stock by hand, a few thousandths of an inch off a whizzing sanding belt- no thank you, I'll pass...
I've always preferred to just use a jig, gives a perfect toe angle. With a precise scribe line on the pad and a light touch with the belt sander it's easy to get a good fit. Any proud areas can be hand sanded after if you're a stickler for "perfectly flush".
You are correct, but the dowel holes don't need to be undersized. And as tobnper said, shape it off the stock. After your dowels are fixed solid, I use epoxy, make sure the butt of the stock is square and flat, screw the pad on and scribe a line on the pad. I use the B-Square jig, not sure its made anymore. Good luckIf I decided to use screws, what is usually used for inserts to take the screws? Glue in a piece of dowel, and bore an undersized hole?