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Bullet Casting work surface

mac86951

I prefer my targets level and unmoving
Gold $$ Contributor
Before I off and join another forum only to get flamed a zillion times since that is what I see other forums are for; I thought I'd ask here.

Getting into bullet casting, what work surface does one prefer?
IE What outdoor work table/folding table/sturdy metal stand would be best? I'm leaning toward all metal, and deal with rust using paint methods; but want to keep initial costs down as I'm a beginner. I'm sure my plastic topped folding table isn't a good idea.

perhaps a new 3/4 plywood top for a Workmate would be sufficient?

-Mac
 
I just use an old table covered in plywood and plywood againt the wall if there is any splatter. Go to a yard sale and pick a used one up cheap and keep a lookout for some cast iron pots at the same time.
 
As ledward mentioned, yard sales are your friend. I picked up an old metal typewriter stand with drop extensions on both ends for $10. Plenty of room for my pot, 4-6 molds, sprue hammer, skimming spoon, sprue box and more. Don't have to worry about any drips or spills. That being said, if I had to come up with another option it would have been something plywood covered.
Al
 
If you already have a Workmate? you're good. I used mine in construction for 30 years. I got a 2 X 4 ft piece of 3/4 ply and screwed a 2x4 to the middle, length wise, for something to clamp to. Easy to pull apart and store.
 
I use a workbench in the garage. I like to have a paver brick on the bench to set hot metal tools on. (esp my ladle and the spoon that I use to skim off the dross)
 
If you already have a Workmate ..;. you're good
Bullet casting can put a lot of stress on a surface. IMO, having a nice solid steel welding table in a well equipped shop is the perfect solution. But now let's get practical.
As Joshb says, the 2x4 cleat to hold a piece of plywood clamped on a WorkMate offers a lot of practicality. First, it's portable. Next, it's easily replaced when the surface gets really beat up. Last point - it's cheap. Both as a project to build and as an object to maintain.
That'd be my choice for a casting bench. Along with a few fire bricks to keep the hot stuff off of the flamable stuff.
 
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We used to share our Regional HQ with the DOT.... I snagged a pair of old, Speed limit signs from the DOT scrap heap. Aluminum, and I use of off side not the 55 mph side. When I'm not casting it lays under my bench. I'd suggest a piece of sheet steel as well.
 
When I was considering it, I was going to build a granite topped bench. I eventually decided against casting, so I never tried it, and don't know if it would have worked.
 
Thank you all again! I've got a portable reloading bench based on workmate thanks to this site, makes sense to have a casting bullet top too.

Maybe next is the shooting table/varmint bench top as well...

-Mac
 
Thank you all again! I've got a portable reloading bench based on workmate thanks to this site, makes sense to have a casting bullet top too.

Maybe next is the shooting table/varmint bench top as well...

-Mac
I have been casting since 1945 and have always used a towel doubled to drop the bullets out of the mold, ,get a leather mallet to strike the mold cutoff, and never use a hammer. the plywood set on top of any surface works well, and I find sitting helps the fatigue when doing a lot of casting, just keep a leather lap rag for safety. I use a deer skin tanned.

I started with a cast iron skillet, then moved to a lyman pot and now a rcbs 20 which I find great and very dependable.

if you can get them 4 cavity molds help a lot with the volume and do not cost that much more considering they last forever if cared for.

Bob
 
An old office desk, covered the top with 1/4" duroc to head off the burns. I also use a folded up towel to drop the bullets on.
 

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