Bulge Buster Question

[Thumb]

When using the Bulge Buster(40 S&W), I have watched a few videos and it seems that when inserting the brass case, some will put the case mouth down on the ram and others will put the case mouth into the die and then raise the ram to push it through. I tried both and have found that on a "Glock Brass" case if you put the case base up, it will ruin the mouth of the case by smashing it if the case is over sized from expansion. On non-Glock cases it doesn't matter.

My question is though which is the correct way to insert the case?

 

[jonbearman]

Mouth first as far as I know.

 

[artbosco]

For your particular problem what does Lee recommend? Ask for their tech rep: phone (262) 673-3075

 

[Thumb]

I was planning on calling them, thanks for the number though.

 

[stool]

base first could lead to a stretching..with a possible need for trimming.

mouth first would not have this issue....

 

[Thumb]

DUH! I read the last part of the instructions that came with it and it says to put the case up into the die. Must of missed that the first time around. I tried it and the worst of the brass I have went through even though it was a little hard to push through.

 

[stool]

silly instructions...we're men! who needs them

lol

 

[jonbearman]

I just went down and tried my new u-die from lee that does the same thing pretty much.It works great and burnishes the surface nice and shiny.Very happy with it.

 

[bigedp51]

Below is the so called "Glock bulge" it can happen with any barrel with a overly long feed ramp and thin cartridge case walls. There were two parts to the " Glock bulge" cure, having a more supportive barrel and better cases. My Glock 22 is four years old and I DO NOT have a problem barrel or my fired brass.

The "Glock Bulge" was a problem on early Glock barrels like the 1998 barrel below with the longer feed ramp. Glock fixed the problem and shortened the feed ramp on later barrels.

If your sized case fits in your chamber your good to go, if it fits in a case gauge then you know the case was sized to minimum dimensions.

If you do not see any "Glock bulge" on your fired cases and they do not fit in your case gauge then there is a good chance your seating and crimping in one operation and bulging the case mouth.

Checking your cases after sizing and then checking the loaded round will let you know if your over crimping.

A taper crimp should only be .001 to .002 smaller than the diameter of the case. And a taper crimp is more case mouth streamlining than a strangling choke hold on the bullet. (less is more)

 

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Tanks for the pictorial bigedp51, very detailed.

What my problem is with the cases is not that it has that "Glock Bulge", the problem it seems after I tested multiple pistols that the Glock barrels must be just a few .001" bigger and it lets the hole case expand more when fired. This expansion and the problem with sizing dies not sizing all the way down to the base is what is causing problems of my reloaded ammo not chambering all the way and jamming in the barrel. My Glock does not do this because I have a KKM barrel in mine and the tolerances are tighter and does not let the case expand as much as a Glock does. Even my Kahr CM40 is good to go.

So if I pick up any range brass that has been fired through a Glock stock barrel I will need to use the Buster on them but only one time and they will be good to go afterwards.

 

[brian427cobra]

I think it would depend on your load weather or not you need to BB everytime or not, my tried n true 40sw load out of my G35 is 3.0 Clays, 180 Berry, .421. crimp, BB range brass and any pistol primer, speed is 725fps, I still run all my 40 thru it for utmost reliability, but if you find a Minor PF load that you like it may not bulge the case, if you develop a powerful almost 10mm load for your 40 you will have to BB everytime and the cases won't last long.

 

[Thumb]

I load mine with Bullseye 5.0gr @1.120" with RMR 165gr FMJ FN which is I believe on the low side. So far the brass out of my two pistols are fine, it's just my friends Glock brass that expands too much and the regular sizing die doesn't get to the base enough.