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Building a Form 1 Suppressor

Who was your solvent trap source? I’ve never seen good picture of what people are receiving on the F1 kits. That does look better than my expectations given the cost of most.
JR Machine sells lots of very nice complete kits. In the "community" of self-builders, they're well regarded. If you dont want to design something and piece a bunch of stuff together, they're known as (one of) the best. This kit was 485 with a couple of different thread adapters.
 
Curious...
Is the design to drill the baffles (which would seem to be "iffy" given interrupted holes)?
Or is the diameter at the end of the baffles conducive to milling off the tops to create the concentric hole?
 
There was an interesting podcast with a designer at KRG suppressors recently - He gave a shout out and talked about how thunderbeast cans have earned their reputation for accuracy (versus other brands) because they hold 3 thou concentricity through the baffle stack on the port opening.

That’s pretty impressive for something 9 inches long and not a solid piece you could use a big boring bar on (probably).

He didn’t say it, but he implied other manufacturers, including theirs can’t do that well.
 
Curious...
Is the design to drill the baffles (which would seem to be "iffy" given interrupted holes)?
Or is the diameter at the end of the baffles conducive to milling off the tops to create the concentric hole?

The hole you see in the baffles is what's referred to as "clipping" - These baffles do not have any bore in them yet.
 
^^^
Thanks for the reply.
I get that, but I'm trying to understand the machining process.
I look at the "clipping"- and having that process done before drilling the holes would be opposite how I would do it.

Full disclosure- never built a can before...
Drilling a hole into one that's already been "clipped" as those are means the bit is drilling into a partially cut hole and that's problematic in my mind- especially with titanium. If I had a baffle in hand that had not been pre-clipped, I'd drill the hole first- then use an end mill to perform the "clipping" of the hole.

Obviously, I'm "missing" something here.

Please update with a few more pics when you do the work so I can better understand the process?
 
^^^
Thanks for the reply.
I get that, but I'm trying to understand the machining process.
I look at the "clipping"- and having that process done before drilling the holes would be opposite how I would do it.

Full disclosure- never built a can before...
Drilling a hole into one that's already been "clipped" as those are means the bit is drilling into a partially cut hole and that's problematic in my mind- especially with titanium. If I had a baffle in hand that had not been pre-clipped, I'd drill the hole first- then use an end mill to perform the "clipping" of the hole.

Obviously, I'm "missing" something here.

Please update with a few more pics when you do the work so I can better understand the process?

Ah. Gotcha. Guys usually use a drilling jig that forms around the cup perfectly and guides the bit, so there's no way for it to wander.

I plan on using a 9/32" end mill and going slow. :)
 
^^^
Thanks for the reply.
I get that, but I'm trying to understand the machining process.
I look at the "clipping"- and having that process done before drilling the holes would be opposite how I would do it.

Full disclosure- never built a can before...
Drilling a hole into one that's already been "clipped" as those are means the bit is drilling into a partially cut hole and that's problematic in my mind- especially with titanium. If I had a baffle in hand that had not been pre-clipped, I'd drill the hole first- then use an end mill to perform the "clipping" of the hole.

Obviously, I'm "missing" something here.

Please update with a few more pics when you do the work so I can better understand the process?
An end mill will make quick work of this job.

Paul
 
The reason they didn't sell with hole drilled in center as that would be a federal violation. The pieces are sold as solvent traps, storage containers, not suppressor parts. You have to have a Form 1 approved and in hand before your allowed to due any machine work. ATF has seized several websites selling these. Heard a few ordering parts from China but they don't make it thru customs. Might get the tube and that's it.
 
I have not designed a suppressor, but I studied Acoustics EE360 Under Rubens A. Siegelman in 1976 with the Kinsler book at the University of Washington when he was helping develop ultrasound.

My take would be I want the volume of the can sized in proportion to the powder mass. To get the muzzle pressure down to one atmosphere or less, above ambient pressure and avoid the supersonic gas ball in open air. The wave length of the sound is affected by the size of he ball when it goes sub sonic. That is why cannons have a deep boom with he bass notes.

My experiments with barrel length and sound level verified this.
By having a large bore volume and low powder mass, the can is not needed. To get the velocity up, I needed to get the expansion ratio and peak pressure up.
 

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