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Brass cleaning option?

Ok I have been reloading for 2 years now started with a corn cob media tumbler. Now I would like to get something that would actually get the inside and primer pockets clean. What would work the best stainless pin media with what machine? Or is sonic cleaner the way to go? Also what do you do to clean sizing lube off after sizing? Any help is great thanks.
 
Ok I have been reloading for 2 years now started with a corn cob media tumbler. Now I would like to get something that would actually get the inside and primer pockets clean. What would work the best stainless pin media with what machine? Or is sonic cleaner the way to go? Also what do you do to clean sizing lube off after sizing? Any help is great thanks.
Keep doing what you started with . Primer pocket
I remove the carbon with a sharp drywall screw . Larry
 
Ok I have been reloading for 2 years now started with a corn cob media tumbler. Now I would like to get something that would actually get the inside and primer pockets clean. What would work the best stainless pin media with what machine? Or is sonic cleaner the way to go? Also what do you do to clean sizing lube off after sizing? Any help is great thanks.

If you really want to clean the primer pockets and the inside of brass cartridges, get yourself the Lyman rotary tumbler that uses stainless steel pins. It comes with the screen and strainer to separate brass and stainless steel pins after you've cleaned the brass. I used corncob for years, there's simply no comparison. The brass comes out looking new. If you want, save your corncob tumbler and after you've cleaned your brass and resized it, you can throw the brass in the corncob to remove the sizing lube.

I always dreaded cleaning brass with corncob, it took forever and it didn't clean the inside or the primer pockets. Stainless steel pins work. I run the machine an hour and a half to two hours. I rinse the pins and brass off after cleaning the brass. I then take the strainer filled with brass and put it on the backyard patio to dry in the sun.If you want info as to what i use in the water to clean the brass PM me and I'll go through the details, it's not rocket science. In the past month I've cleaned close to three thousand pieces of brass.
 
If you really want to clean the primer pockets and the inside of brass cartridges, get yourself the Lyman rotary tumbler that uses stainless steel pins. It comes with the screen and strainer to separate brass and stainless steel pins after you've cleaned the brass. I used corncob for years, there's simply no comparison. The brass comes out looking new. If you want, save your corncob tumbler and after you've cleaned your brass and resized it, you can throw the brass in the corncob to remove the sizing lube.

I always dreaded cleaning brass with corncob, it took forever and it didn't clean the inside or the primer pockets. Stainless steel pins work. I run the machine an hour and a half to two hours. I rinse the pins and brass off after cleaning the brass. I then take the strainer filled with brass and put it on the backyard patio to dry in the sun.If you want info as to what i use in the water to clean the brass PM me and I'll go through the details, it's not rocket science.
Cleaning the primer pockets is easy get a 2" or longer dry screw . Grind some of the threads off . Use the point to remove the carbon and clean the flash hole. Carbon is your friend when seating the bullets. Larry
 
I have used all the methods listed. Currently I use the SS wet pin tumbling on most of my brass. But I like the shine. If cleaning primer pockets is your main goal, consider using a primer pocket uniformer. http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...r-kit-with-screwdriver-adaptor-prod36760.aspx
It will cut your primer pocket to a uniform depth with square corners, and clean the pocket of any residue. If you aren't careful, you can make the primer pocket deeper with repetitive cleanings. Using the primer pocket uniformer prevents this from happening.

I mostly moved away from dry tumbling to keep the lead dust away from my loading area. Primer residue does contain lead.
 
I wipe the carbon off my cases at the range with a little HOS on a cleaning patch.

There are many good tools for cleaning primer pockets. I do not support the use of SS media after trying it for several months.

Making good ammo is time consuming, plain and simple.
 
Also what do you do to clean sizing lube off after sizing? Any help is great thanks.
After sizing, I put my brass into a bucket with dawn soap and rinse it well to remove the lube, using a pasta strainer to repeat the rinsing several times. Then, after drying the heavy water off the brass with a large beach towel, I use Frankford Arsenal's Brass Dryer to dry the brass. With dryer, I can dry the brass in 10 to 15 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RPABBG0/?tag=accuratescom-20
 
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I clean necks with a q tip and hand wipe the outside with a micro fiber towel.

It takes a little while, but not bad.
I understand some people don't have as much free time as I do.

However, after reloading for a lot of years, I'm still wondering why people are in such a hurry. I generally avoid bulk exercises other than tumbling. I figure the more times I handle a case the better chance I'll catch any imperfection it has.
 
I like my sonic cleaner. But i do not run it till they are completally clean. I like just a little carbon left inside to lubricate the bullet.
 
Ok I have been reloading for 2 years now started with a corn cob media tumbler. Now I would like to get something that would actually get the inside and primer pockets clean. What would work the best stainless pin media with what machine? Or is sonic cleaner the way to go? Also what do you do to clean sizing lube off after sizing? Any help is great thanks.
I like corn cob media. I put 1 tube stainless bb and 2 tablespoons new finish car wax and it does a great job and I never have to let it run over 2 hours.
 
One way to get the carbon off your cases on the outside is to use the ....." As Seen On T.V.".....wait for it.... " Krazy Kloth "......Cheap as heck and worth having a few around....Not really a high volume option but it works immediately.

Best Regards
Rick
 
There are many good options here. One thing to consider if you choose to go the SS pin route, which I use, the peening of the pins on the brass will harden it. If that is the method you choose, the next step is to also anneal. I know I've just opened another big can of worms, but it's something to be aware of.
 
I use a fine scotchbrite pad on the outside and a primer pocket uniformer. The inside stays as fired until I anneal, then I just deprime and ultrasonic clean and lube the inside of the necks for bullet seating. As attested to by other reloaders, other methods work just as well.
 
I use a fine scotchbrite pad on the outside and a primer pocket uniformer. The inside stays as fired until I anneal, then I just deprime and ultrasonic clean and lube the inside of the necks for bullet seating. As attested to by other reloaders, other methods work just as well.

You don't resize after you anneal?
 

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