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Brake vs no brake

Raythemanroe

Bullet Whisperer
I have a action coming and was thinking of using a muzzle brake for my next build. I wonder why most of the videos or pictures seem to appear to have no Brakes on the bench guns? Does a brake hamper accuracy?
 
I'll bet it is because they don't shoot calibers where they need them...
A 6BR is competitive out to 1000 yds. with the right shooter. Not sure what else you need.
 
HI Ray,,,as stated if you shoot a 6mm/BR you dont need a brake,,,,most true short range bench guns are PPC's or BR's and dont hav a lot of recoil....and OBTW !!! Brakes are NOT legal in short range "B"enchrest events!!!...the guns dont have recoil so no one needs or uses em....the benches at most short range events are much closer than most long range courses,,,,,so at long range you dont blast your neighbor off his/her bench because thay are further apart,,,and lots of long range guns are larger cals. with heavyy bullets and the recoil is hard to control ....so they usually have a brake ,,and are legal....brakes dont hurt accuracy ,,,use one that vents to the side if shooting prone so that the dirt that gets kiked up doesnt become a nusance,,,,,hope this helps...Roger
 
I really like the one on my .284 Shehane. it makes the recoil similar to my 6 Dasher.
 
Anyone try .338 Lapua without a brake? (sorry someone already stated brakes are common with the larger sizes).

One could potentially build a brake to control recoil balance too (muzzle flip and/or pressure on the bags front vs. rear), but I would opt against a brake unless you really feel you need one (can have one added later, but retune your loads). They do protect the crown...

-Mac
 
raythemanroe said:
I have heard of brakes needing to be tuned or timed when there installed, what does that mean?

I'll narrow down the brakes to two types (sorry, there really is a lot more than this, but you get the idea from the following).

#1 Left/Right symmetry. This means symmetric along vertical plane going through action and bore along bullet flight path. Think snake-head brake on barret .50cal, also think of compensator for competition 1911.
These direct the gasses for different purposes, one is to reduce recoil (.50 cal) and NOT launch a ton of dust into the air if the gasses were directed DOWN. The pistol is designed to reduce muzzle flip for faster target acquisition.
Tuning will usually be tweaking a hand-load for the change in barrel harmonics, but you can use a standard accurate load, and by changing overall length of device (milling or spacers) do the same thing. Not recommended, since you have to go 1 full thread each time (see timing).

Timing is the location of the device in relation to action/rifle orientation. Think of rotating the barret snake-head by 90° and you get the idea.

#2 Circular symmetry, this is like the classic hunter patterns and more what you see on the bench. Not a big concern over kicking up dust from a prone shot, or bench shot. Example Harrel's muzzle brake, or Browning BOSS.

Tuning: See BOSS as it is an excellent reference. Idea is change length of barrel, harmonics shift, accuracy shifts.

Timing: Not a big issue now, but one could align the ports in reference to the ground if needed.

All Muzzle brakes increase noise! A 7mmSAUM will be a good idea to have ear plugs AND muffs.
Note: Hunting with a 7mm Rem Mag, I'd not use a brake as the 10 shots a year aren't that bad, but assuming I want to do prone/improv. shooting more often, I'd look to a tactical type break to keep the dust down.

Benchrest/Competition, if I could install a Browning BOSS and still be in the rule book, I'd do it. Definitely an unfair advantage.

-Mac
 
raythemanroe,

Like said above, not legal for short range BR and Fclass, But most Long range benchrest guns (16.5 to 17 lb) guns have brakes on the light gun. If installed correct, accuracy is the same. You don't need a brake on a 6br or 6BR IMP, but I have them on all of mine.

Mark Schronce
 
I like them most for varmint hunting. I can see the bullet hit at 5 to 600 yds, and see my misses for a quick followup shot.

Mark Schronce
 
I think that when someone speaks of timing a brake, they mean installing it so the ports point where they were intended to. Some brakes do not require this, others do. For instance this break would have to be timed.
http://www.google.com/imgres?client=firefox&hs=a0O&sa=X&rls=com.yahoo:en-US:official&biw=1120&bih=533&tbm=isch&tbnid=svGTZQ2dhoKriM:&imgrefurl=http://www.ifish.net/board/showthread.php%3Ft%3D337182&docid=rY3NEfmX9Ots4M&imgurl=http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a7/Fiftydriver/ImportedPhotos00011-2.jpg&w=800&h=600&ei=GUShUaLUOYnVigKZ8oCICg&zoom=1&ved=1t:3588,r:19,s:0,i:183&iact=rc&dur=936&page=2&tbnh=189&tbnw=259&start=8&ndsp=13&tx=144&ty=88
, and this one would not.
http://www.google.com/imgres?start=124&client=firefox&hs=tM4&sa=X&rls=com.yahoo:en-US:official&biw=1120&bih=533&tbm=isch&tbnid=55LbujoP2kTdYM:&imgrefurl=http://www.midwayusa.com/product/684063/vais-muzzle-brake-micro-284-caliber-7mm-1-2-32-thread-750-outside-diameter-x-1750-length-chrome-moly-in-the-white&docid=sHn3F7i8RJm6SM&imgurl=http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/primary/684/684063.jpg&w=880&h=660&ei=gkShUcmhLsrKigLLmIGQDA&zoom=1&ved=1t:3588,r:33,s:100,i:103&iact=rc&dur=3183&page=11&tbnh=163&tbnw=220&ndsp=12&tx=127&ty=67
 
I would want a brake on everything, even a 6 br. If you can cut recoil in half why not? It will make you shoot more accurate, and get back on target faster. A 10.5 lb 6ppc kicks alot more than my 17 lb dasher with a brake. I have gotten spoiled with brakes. :D
 
I'm building a 300 win and think a brake would be nice! I heard things about timing and what not and wondered if it had any effect on accuracy! I will probably buy a Harrel brake along with some rings while I'm ordering it.
 
Good thinking,,,,they make two types,,,1.-with spiral vent holes that does NOT require timing,,,,2. with shark gill--side slits that vent to the side and not kik up dirt in your face,,,MUST be timed,,both are great ,,,I have used them for many bbls with great results...Roger
 

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