raythemanroe said:
I have heard of brakes needing to be tuned or timed when there installed, what does that mean?
I'll narrow down the brakes to two types (sorry, there really is a lot more than this, but you get the idea from the following).
#1 Left/Right symmetry. This means symmetric along vertical plane going through action and bore along bullet flight path. Think snake-head brake on barret .50cal, also think of compensator for competition 1911.
These direct the gasses for different purposes, one is to reduce recoil (.50 cal) and NOT launch a ton of dust into the air if the gasses were directed DOWN. The pistol is designed to reduce muzzle flip for faster target acquisition.
Tuning will usually be tweaking a hand-load for the change in barrel harmonics, but you can use a standard accurate load, and by changing overall length of device (milling or spacers) do the same thing. Not recommended, since you have to go 1 full thread each time (see timing).
Timing is the location of the device in relation to action/rifle orientation. Think of rotating the barret snake-head by 90° and you get the idea.
#2 Circular symmetry, this is like the classic hunter patterns and more what you see on the bench. Not a big concern over kicking up dust from a prone shot, or bench shot. Example Harrel's muzzle brake, or Browning BOSS.
Tuning: See BOSS as it is an excellent reference. Idea is change length of barrel, harmonics shift, accuracy shifts.
Timing: Not a big issue now, but one could align the ports in reference to the ground if needed.
All Muzzle brakes increase noise! A 7mmSAUM will be a good idea to have ear plugs AND muffs.
Note: Hunting with a 7mm Rem Mag, I'd not use a brake as the 10 shots a year aren't that bad, but assuming I want to do prone/improv. shooting more often, I'd look to a tactical type break to keep the dust down.
Benchrest/Competition, if I could install a Browning BOSS and still be in the rule book, I'd do it. Definitely an unfair advantage.
-Mac