Brake that doesn't need much shoulder

[INTJ]

I'll have my lathe up and running again in December. I want to fit a brake to my 33-28 Nosler. I used a #4 contour barrel that has a muzzle diameter of .650. I won't thread the muzzle to less than .625. I have a clamp on brake now--it looks so bad I may just put up with the 50+ ft lbs of recoil.

Is there a brake that will work with .025" of shoulder? I could be persuaded to cut the barrel back to 24", but that doesn't add a lot more diameter.

 

[INTJ]

Anyone?

 

[DaveTooley]

Make one with an internal shoulder like AAC does.

 

[hoz53]

I'll have my lathe up and running again in December. I want to fit a brake to my 33-28 Nosler. I used a #4 contour barrel that has a muzzle diameter of .650. I won't thread the muzzle to less than .625. I have a clamp on brake now--it looks so bad I may just put up with the 50+ ft lbs of recoil.

Is there a brake that will work with .025" of shoulder? I could be persuaded to cut the barrel back to 24", but that doesn't add a lot more diameter.

you could get it magnaported

 

[ricco1949]

I've made several 9/16 x 32 brakes for .670 barrels and turned them to muzzle diameter with no issues.

 

[INTJ]

I've made several 9/16 x 32 brakes for .670 barrels and turned them to muzzle diameter with no issues.

On a .338 bore?

 

[INTJ]

you could get it magnaported

You mean let someone else machine one of my barrels?

 

[ricco1949]

On a .338 bore?

No.....Sorry I missed the .338 caliber.

My point was that the brake held together with 9/16 x 32 threads turned down to .670 barrel diameter.

 

[Tucker65]

You can do like Dave said and seat the brake on the end of the muzzle. Or you could thread the od of the barrel what ever your brake thread is going to be a little longer and loctite a threaded ring on the barrel. Taper cut one end of the ring down to blend into the barrel and the other end is the seat for the brake. I'm pretty sure a 1/2 - 5/8 long ring with red loctite holding it on will be plenty strong enough to seat your brake against.

 

[INTJ]

Point of fact, the clamp on brake didn't stay on. After my third shot with 90 grains of H-1000 and a 250 grain Berger, I noticed the brake wasn't on the barrel anymore. I eventually found it in a creek bed 35 yds in front of the firing line.

 

[Tucker65]

That brake must have gotten misaligned somehow and then struck by the next bullet fired. I can't imagine just the muzzle blast carrying it that far.

 

[INTJ]

That brake must have gotten misaligned somehow and then struck by the next bullet fired. I can't imagine just the muzzle blast carrying it that far.

Maybe. There are no marks on it other than carbon. The bullet still hit the 100 yd target within 6" of the previous shot.

 

[PigButtons]

Help me understand. Your muzzle dia is .650 and the bore is .338. That leaves a barrel wall thickness of 0.156 and you want to thread that for a brake. Really?

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Help me understand. Your muzzle dia is .650 and the bore is .338. That leaves a barrel wall thickness of 0.156 and you want to thread that for a brake. Really?

Less than that to the minor diameter! That said, I had a 338 RUM come in a few years back that someone brought in with accuracy issues. Custom bbl, etc...It was threaded 1/2-28 and had a very visible bulge in the bore under the threads. I cut it back, recrowned and put a 5/8-24 brake on it and it did fine after that. IIRC, the od was about like the op is asking about. You don't need much shoulder. On second thought, it musta been a 9/16-24. That'd be about my absolute minimum bore thickness, especially on a big gun. It might have been a 32 tpi. CRS sux!

 

[hoz53]

You mean let someone else machine one of my barrels?

Har Har you have a point- i sure wont let anyone machine any of mine. Once on the used rack in a gunshop in North Dakota i saw a Ruger 77 in 30/06 and someone had drilled eight 1/8” holes in the bore close to muzzle. looked like they did it with a black and decker. Price was cheap if i remember correctly. Wonder how that worked???
Home made Magnaport No Barrel Bulge—- lol

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I had Hawkins Precision make some that shoulder on the crown. Give them a call. If they dont have any I know I have at least one left.

 

[PigButtons]

I had Hawkins Precision make some that shoulder on the crown. Give them a call. If they dont have any I know I have at least one left.

Very interesting concept. Thanks for posting that.

 

[jackieschmidt]

I just made a muzzle brake for my 308. It is a Remington Varmint Taper, so I made the thread a .750 24 tpi. I seated it against the crown, which of course is truly square with the bore.

has anybody got any data on whether it is best to shoulder on the crown, or the barrel OD, assuming all surfaces are machined truly square with the ID of the barrel.

 

[escopeta]

I'll have my lathe up and running again in December. I want to fit a brake to my 33-28 Nosler. I used a #4 contour barrel that has a muzzle diameter of .650. I won't thread the muzzle to less than .625. I have a clamp on brake now--it looks so bad I may just put up with the 50+ ft lbs of recoil.

Is there a brake that will work with .025" of shoulder? I could be persuaded to cut the barrel back to 24", but that doesn't add a lot more diameter.

I do a lot of slim barrels for suppressor and brakes as it sounds you can thread the barrel 5/8-24 but you will need a threaded spacer, red loctite it on and a skim cut on face once installed. DownRange products sells these and cheaper than making your own. 5/8-24 thread length + thickness of spacer. Cure the loctite using 99% isopropyl alcohol. Be sure all surfaces are free of all lubricants (acetone) wash. You need a good shoulder for proper alignment. I always use plug gages to center bore using indicator as barrel OD is never concentric with bore.

 

[escopeta]