I started sanding one of these VIP blanks.laminated birch two tone..I'm using 320 grit after a light dusting with 220...I applied a coat of stain between sanding grits...The machine marks in this stock are just awful.I have a nice smooth surface but tons of minute tool marks are visible..only part that looks decent is the flat forend for the bags...I think I'll be sanding this project till the cows come home..Am I wasting my time or will this thing finish well???..mike in ct
Boyd's Thumbhole Laminate varmint stock
- Thread starter mikeinct
- Start date
Hi Mike
I have done several Lam stocks and found that all scratches must be removed before applying any kind of clear coating or satin.. They will only be intensified by the clear and I learned the hard way to always put a sanding sealer on before your first coat.I also give the stock a good rubbing after sanding with 0000 steel wool wearing rubber gloves to keep oil and smudges off. I knock each coat back with it also before applying another.
I use Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane and they end up looking pretty good with four coats,it's all in the prep.I am not that fussy with the finishing of stocks but am concerned with them being protected.Hope you can get yours fixed up.
I have done several Lam stocks and found that all scratches must be removed before applying any kind of clear coating or satin.. They will only be intensified by the clear and I learned the hard way to always put a sanding sealer on before your first coat.I also give the stock a good rubbing after sanding with 0000 steel wool wearing rubber gloves to keep oil and smudges off. I knock each coat back with it also before applying another.
I use Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane and they end up looking pretty good with four coats,it's all in the prep.I am not that fussy with the finishing of stocks but am concerned with them being protected.Hope you can get yours fixed up.
Forum Boss
Administrator
Steve has given good advice. Definitely add the sanding sealer. I would also add that many brands of urethane will impart a color change. In my case I had a gray/black laminate that turned out a greenish brown. It doesn't look bad, but it is definitely not what I expected. Sand, sand, sand, then apply auto clear coat if you want to be assured of no color shift. If you are working with a brown type laminate, the urethane color shift won't be too bothersome, but if you've got any white panels in the wood watch out.
Here's a photo of the stock. This was after 6 coats of MinWax Urethane. The stock originally was very light gray, medium gray and black. The color shift increased with each coat.
Here's a photo of the stock. This was after 6 coats of MinWax Urethane. The stock originally was very light gray, medium gray and black. The color shift increased with each coat.
I have always started out sanding them using 120 grit paper until all of the tools marks are out of the stock as well. I apply the sanding sealer as well and then go up to 220 and then 300 grit before calling it quits if everything looks good. I use Arrow's wood finish so I don't get rid of the whiskers. what I do is soak the first coat in well which raises the whiskers and then I knock them off and use them to help fill the pores of the stock. I have never had any problems with color change using the Arrow's but I have had it when using tung oil. Good luck with it.
Thanks to all ...I used up the better part of half sheet of 180 grit then better than a sheet of 320...Looks better..The stain raised the grain some & that was not a bad thing..Still has some rough spots...I'd like this project to come out good...But the time factor on all this sanding is killing me...no way you save money doing this yourself...mike in ct
I would think you are about right on not saving money. If you count up all of the sanding time before you ever get ready to finish the stock, it would behoove the average guy to pay someone to do it for him. Boyd's offers that service for you in case you need it next time.
our editor and chief mentioned color change with urethane and yes I have gotten that also and I rather like the tint it gave to my stock,the gray took on a gold tint and looks good with the black. I didn't mind the sanding and the cost for materials was around 25.00. I was given a price of 200.00 to have a pro do it.The savings went into a Jewell trigger.I enjoy doing things for myself and do not find it laborious.
The next one I do I am going to spray it with RUST-OLEUM crystal clear.I seen one done that way and it looked really good with 7 coats.
The next one I do I am going to spray it with RUST-OLEUM crystal clear.I seen one done that way and it looked really good with 7 coats.
Why not use clear Alumihyde on a stock as it should be better resistant to solvents.
I wish my stock would get here for the 10-22 as I want to sand and finish it, I want it for practice at 100 yards to save my 6.5x.284 barrel and set out wind flags to practice reading the wind.
Freaking Richards microfit.
RHINOUT!
I wish my stock would get here for the 10-22 as I want to sand and finish it, I want it for practice at 100 yards to save my 6.5x.284 barrel and set out wind flags to practice reading the wind.
Freaking Richards microfit.
RHINOUT!
Well only took a few hrs to sand my Mastin stock to a reasonable finish then i used Birch-wood Casey Tru-Oil giving a rub with fine steel wool between coats have done a few stocks this way now and after 4 to 6 coats is fine and if you have a bump or scratch it is very easy to fix.
I take it they are a timber laminate and not synthetic
I take it they are a timber laminate and not synthetic
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Forum Boss
Administrator
Bob,
I've seen a couple unfinished Mastins at Mac Tilton's shop, including one just like yours. I can confirm that the Mastins, as delivered, come much closer to "finish sanded" than most American-made Rutland laminates.
The Richards Microfit stock,not to be confused with Richard's Custom Rifles which are high quality) on my Savage looked like it had be cut out with a chisel. I must have spent 20 hours sanding the thing. I would not buy another Microfit stock. Not only was it "rough-cut" but the inletting was bad.
,BTW, that's an interesting label on the hanging bucket in the photo.
)
I've seen a couple unfinished Mastins at Mac Tilton's shop, including one just like yours. I can confirm that the Mastins, as delivered, come much closer to "finish sanded" than most American-made Rutland laminates.
The Richards Microfit stock,not to be confused with Richard's Custom Rifles which are high quality) on my Savage looked like it had be cut out with a chisel. I must have spent 20 hours sanding the thing. I would not buy another Microfit stock. Not only was it "rough-cut" but the inletting was bad.
,BTW, that's an interesting label on the hanging bucket in the photo.
)
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