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Bottleneck prep practices that translate to straight walled cartridges?

Winny94

I'm about to start loading straightwalls for the first time (45 Raptor, essentially a rimless 460 s&w). Use is for Midwest deer hunting, most shots are 80-175 yds, but occasionally the opportunity for a 250-300 yd shot arises. This cartridge headspaces off of the case mouth as you might expect given the description. Knowing this, which practices commonly used on precision bottleneck cartridges would be applicable to this round? Ex. I'm assuming chamferring & deburring would not be advised as it could alter the headspace. Any value in annealing straight walled rounds? Other tips or carry over practices I should know?
 
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Winny94 said:
I'm about to start loading straightwalls for the first time (45 Raptor, essentially a rimless 460 s&w).
Ex. I'm assuming chamferring & deburring would not be advised as it could alter the headspace.
Click to expand...

Chamfering and deburring should be done to a point that the square edge of the case mouth is just taken off; you're not changing the length of the brass. I don't see how that affects headspace (I assume your cartridge headspaces off the case mouth.)

Trim all to length, lightly chamfer and debur; call it good.
 
divingin said:
Chamfering and deburring should be done to a point that the square edge of the case mouth is just taken off; you're not changing the length of the brass. I don't see how that affects headspace (I assume your cartridge headspaces off the case mouth.)

Trim all to length, lightly chamfer and debur; call it good.
Click to expand...
any thoughts on annealing? Seems straight walls get worked way more than bottle necks, so Id think they benefit more from regular annealing. However, some have advised it may render the taper crimp less effective??
 
I plan on testing the annealing on a 414 Super Mag. Not a taper crimp but may give an idea as to if it’s worth while. I notice a huge difference in seating bullets. Not sure it will make a difference but very curious.
I could be way off base here but I would think if virgin brass holds the taper crimp then annealing the brass should not. From what I have read on AMP’s site your just returning it to the original hardness.
 
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Winny94 said:
any thoughts on annealing? Seems straight walls get worked way more than bottle necks, so Id think they benefit more from regular annealing. However, some have advised it may render the taper crimp less effective??
Click to expand...

Not sure how it would render the crimp less effective since annealing reduces the amount of springback, giving you a stronger crimp. I suppose you could posit that the softer brass would release easier, but I would guess that would be offset by the stronger crimp. Just a guess though.

The only straight wall cases I shoot are for pistol. I don't anneal those because my annealer won't handle the short cases. They're not particularly expensive (the calibers I shoot aren't, anyway), so buying replacements isn't too big a deal. I don't shoot any big, high recoiling straight wall rounds, so don't really know requirements or anything about those.
 
divingin said:
Not sure how it would render the crimp less effective since annealing reduces the amount of springback, giving you a stronger crimp. I suppose you could posit that the softer brass would release easier, but I would guess that would be offset by the stronger crimp. Just a guess though.

The only straight wall cases I shoot are for pistol. I don't anneal those because my annealer won't handle the short cases. They're not particularly expensive (the calibers I shoot aren't, anyway), so buying replacements isn't too big a deal. I don't shoot any big, high recoiling straight wall rounds, so don't really know requirements or anything about those.
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yea, I cant seem to find many who are into precision reloading practices AND big straight walled rounds. I reached out to Starline and AMP to get their opinion.
 
Winny94,
What are you using for a barrel, make, taper and contour? I am planning to build one in a XP-100.
Also please post Starline’s and AMP’s answers if you would.
 
Winny,

You may even wish to try the Redding dual-diameter sizing dies, if available. Backup edwardware for the rest of sizing/loading etc.

HTH,
DocBII
 
Dead Eye said:
Winny94,
What are you using for a barrel, make, taper and contour? I am planning to build one in a XP-100.
Also please post Starline’s and AMP’s answers if you would.
Click to expand...
the barrel is a 20" prefit from Liberty (Satern). Not sure the contour - its basically just a straight taper.

Both AMP and Starline said they dont have any experience annealing that cartridge, but as long as you stay away from the case head, all of the same principles apply (so I went ahead and annealed my 100 pieces)
 
Winny94 said:
wow, that would be a great option, but doesnt appear to be an option for 460 S&W
Click to expand...
Since the .460 S&W is essentially just a longer .454 Casull case, would a dual ring carbide sizer for that cartridge (or .45 Colt) work? Re: annealing. I associate with a lot of died-in-the-wool bigbore revolver shooters (including some Metallic Silhouette masters), and I don't know of anyone who anneals their brass. In fact, new revolver reloaders are generally advised NOT to anneal their brass.
 
nicholst55 said:
Since the .460 S&W is essentially just a longer .454 Casull case, would a dual ring carbide sizer for that cartridge (or .45 Colt) work? Re: annealing. I associate with a lot of died-in-the-wool bigbore revolver shooters (including some Metallic Silhouette masters), and I don't know of anyone who anneals their brass. In fact, new revolver reloaders are generally advised NOT to anneal their brass.
Click to expand...
I think youd just be asking for chambering issues (by not sizing down near the casehead), but I really have no clue...?
 
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