Bolt cocking Ramp

[Jesswil61]

I am curious in how some of you modify the cocking ramp in Remington bolts. I have spent plenty of time modifying the cocking piece to minimize cock on close as much as possible, Polish all of the surfaces for smoothness, cut deeper on some to maintain pin fall. Smooth out the transition from the ramp to the fully cocked position to get rid of the click. Modify bolt handles and time for best extraction. What type angle changes or other things do you guys check or do? No Alex, I don't want all of your secrets just a couple.

 

[jackieschmidt]

My very best shooting 30BR has considerable cock on close. It is an older right Left no eject Farley.

It has around .250 firing pin travel. Which is impossible to get on a Farley unless you lengthen the cocking ramp or move the trigger hanger back.

I you lengthen the cocking ramp, that results in a stiffer bolt lift. If you move the hanger back, that results in the same easy bolt lift but some cock on close.

I chose cock on close. And with the way this Rifle shoots, and the marches I have won with it, it was a good choice.

On the Farley that I put the new bolt head on, I did lengthen the ramp. But I then had to lighten the spring down to just 28 pounds. To get back firing pin inertia, I added a Tungston weight to the rear of the cocking piece, which is part of the firing pin.
it shoots quite well.
These are Varmint for Score Rifles. Being able to shoot 5 shots in 20 seconds is not a concern.
None of this is my original ideas. I am just copying what others have done.

By the way. One thing Remingtons do not suffer from is not enough firing pin travel.

 

[BoydAllen]

I have a Stiller Viper that has .020 cock on close that I cannot feel at all when the action is run like I have in matches. I think a lot of the cock on close thing comes from looking at the issue in slow motion. When closing the bolt at speed, the weight of the bolt plus that of my hand easily overcomes the slight resistance. Most of the upset of bags comes from opening the bolt. To reduce that you can lower the height of the bump between the top of the cam and the parking detent. On the subject of smooth bolt operation the biggest mistake I see made when shooting from a rest is grabbing the handle and lifting instead of planting the thumb on the action, curling the index and second fingers over the knob and rotating the wrist so that the down force on the thumb balances the lift on the bolt handle. I had to stop this video several times and go back to figure out all of the little things that Bart is doing. He leaves his thumb on the back of the shroud as the bolt moves to the rear, and loosens his grip on the knob and and pushes the bolt forward with his thumb, preventing any bind. One thing that I have noticed is that actions with .062 firing pin tips seem to handle lighter springs (with federal primers in a PPC) just fine. The action came with a #19 spring. and when I replaced it with one that would be stock for a Remington, there was no difference in accuracy. If you want to run a #25 spring, consider the Tubb two spring setup. A friend has them on three Pandas that shoot lights out, in competition.

 

[marazzi59]

I don't think you will get the answers your looking for. I asked about this a little while back and the ones that know, don't want to share. I understand for them it's been hard earned and could impact there money making abilities and I mean no disrespect. Just thought I would share and hope you have better luck.

 

[Sniperhandle]

My very best shooting 30BR has considerable cock on close. It is an older right Left no eject Farley.

It has around .250 firing pin travel. Which is impossible to get on a Farley unless you lengthen the cocking ramp or move the trigger hanger back.

I you lengthen the cocking ramp, that results in a stiffer bolt lift. If you move the hanger back, that results in the same easy bolt lift but some cock on close.

I chose cock on close. And with the way this Rifle shoots, and the marches I have won with it, it was a good choice.

On the Farley that I put the new bolt head on, I did lengthen the ramp. But I then had to lighten the spring down to just 28 pounds. View attachment 1624881To get back firing pin inertia, I added a Tungston weight to the rear of the cocking piece, which is part of the firing pin.
it shoots quite well.
These are Varmint for Score Rifles. Being able to shoot 5 shots in 20 seconds is not a concern.
None of this is my original ideas. I am just copying what others have done.

By the way. One thing Remingtons do not suffer from is not enough firing pin travel.

Jackie, Doesn't adding extra weight increase lock time? That is what has been said for a very long time.

To answer OP's question, Speedy has a video with cortina that shows the stuff he does to the cocking peices.

 

[jackieschmidt]

Lock time is a non issue in Short Range Benchrest. Efficient and consistent ignition is paramount.

 

[Will Henry]

Before all of the polishing, it really pays to harden the cocking cam. This is easily done with a small, slightly carburizing flame, with an oxy-acetylene torch. Heat to red then quench in oil. Work quickly to prevent the heat from migrating to the handle joint, for obvious reasons. If you have had the handle welded on, you don't have to worry, of course. As for cock on close, I don't mind it as long as it occurs only on turn down. When the bolt is pushed forward, I want the extraction cam to make first contact, not the sear. WH

 

[WSnyder]

I want the extraction cam to make first contact, not the sear. WH

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