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Bolt click in a simple paragraph

snert

Silver $$ Contributor
Ok, I am being lazy here. I am looking for a simple explanation for bolt click/stop on a 40X 22-250 when extracting/lifting bolt on fired round. Am I too hot, or is this a trigger issue. It has a Jewel. Groups great.
 
Ok, I am being lazy here. I am looking for a simple explanation for bolt click/stop on a 40X 22-250 when extracting/lifting bolt on fired round. Am I too hot, or is this a trigger issue. It has a Jewel. Groups great.

I get it when the base of the cartridge is not sized small enough. Common when neck sizing only.
 
You're too hot. 22-250 design CAN'T be run hot, sidewalls too far out of parallel for the brass to collapse properly and fully unlock, think Morse Taper. Solution is to AI it to set the tpi @ .010/inch and fatten the butt a little, give the base some clearance. The nearly parallel taper eliminates the tendency to stick (click) but then the next problem crops up, a 40* shoulder on this particular case will bounce which makes proper sizing an issue. A 35* shoulder solves this problem which brings you to the NEXT problem. The large primer, which just forces you to STOP with the pressure.
 
Clicks on bolt lift are usually caused by neck sizing or a die that just isnt sized right at the base for your chamber. A small base die may help for a while
 
Does your rifle have a factory barrel? One cause can relate to hot loads and chambers that are smaller at the back, combined with a die that is too big to size a fired case properly. How much does your die reduce a fired case at the .200 above the head line?
 
Ok, I am being lazy here. I am looking for a simple explanation for bolt click/stop on a 40X 22-250 when extracting/lifting bolt on fired round. Am I too hot, or is this a trigger issue. It has a Jewel. Groups great.
send 3 fired cases to Whidden, they will make a die that is correct for your chamber
don't forget to send money along with the brass
 
Ok, this all makes sense.

i never had this problem till I "sold" the gun to my uncle for a year, and he loaded for it. His work is all neck size, and while it is shooting great (I mean great) i suspected from go that it was hot. I bought it back, and got back my now thrice fired Lapua reloaded by him. (today it shot several five shot four leaf clovers, and it was all mirage and wind that made them even nudge to create the "clover". Even without a chrono on it i could tell it was warmer than what I ran it. I was conservative with it.

it is a Hart 40X with little time on it, under 300 rounds for sure, and I never had this problem before. i will FL size and see if that takes care of things. if not, i will get new brass and start over. While I like the accuracy, I am certain I do not need to run it at this node. I am just using up the loads he did.

Thanks guys, appreciate the fast simple answer.

Glad it isn't the trigger or some such, cause I like that trigger!
 
Ok, this all makes sense.

i never had this problem till I "sold" the gun to my uncle for a year, and he loaded for it. His work is all neck size, and while it is shooting great (I mean great) i suspected from go that it was hot. I bought it back, and got back my now thrice fired Lapua reloaded by him. (today it shot several five shot four leaf clovers, and it was all mirage and wind that made them even nudge to create the "clover". Even without a chrono on it i could tell it was warmer than what I ran it. I was conservative with it.

it is a Hart 40X with little time on it, under 300 rounds for sure, and I never had this problem before. i will FL size and see if that takes care of things. if not, i will get new brass and start over. While I like the accuracy, I am certain I do not need to run it at this node. I am just using up the loads he did.

Thanks guys, appreciate the fast simple answer.

Glad it isn't the trigger or some such, cause I like that trigger!

Enjoy your new again rifle.
 
Enjoy your new again rifle.

Oh, I have. It has been with me for years. Rebarrelled then i hit a financial snag and my uncle helped me out. I had not shot it in three years till today.

Been farting about trying to get my 6BR to shoot 105's and despite the 8 twist it just doesn't cut the mustard. But gosh it loved some Ronnie Cheek 66 grain match i popped into it. Had to seat so far out it felt like they were hardly in the case, but banged out groups that brought a smile.

I think I will go to the 1/2 way spot and try some 87s in it.

In the mean time, the purple 40X is humming with 55 grain vmax and beware lowly groundhogs!
 
When I get bolt click with my 30br I run the brass through my 30=06 die. I believe it is .00I5 smaller at the base.
Right or wrong doing so?
Maybe you could find a die that does the same ?
Link
 
I agree with link. Had the same problem with my 6BRX using 6BR dies. Now I run the brass thru a FL 308 die minus the decaping stem first. Works great!
 
Thanks guys.

I will be FL sizing all these as soon as they are shot up. It isn't so bad I can't shoot them, but it is annoying.

I appreciate the confirmation of the issue.
 
Thanks guys.

I will be FL sizing all these as soon as they are shot up. It isn't so bad I can't shoot them, but it is annoying.

I appreciate the confirmation of the issue.

One problem you may have is the brass, being neck sized, may have work hardened at the larger diameter and FL sizing will get it back in the chamber but not out. The only way to tell is FL size and shoot some.
 
It always seems strange to me when a shooter develops a problem suddenly and without warning. One day he shot the rifle without bolt snap and or click and then one day 'there it is'. Does anyone measure the diameter of the case before they start? Does anyone know what effect case head expansion has on case extraction? Does anyone know what normal case head expansion should be? And it is obvious there is no standard.

There was a time .00025" case head expansion was considered case head expansion for factory ammo. Anything above .00025" case head expansion on the first firing was considered hotter than factory loads. And then there are limitations; the reloader has to have the ability to measure the diameter of the case head.

Snap and or click? I know when I have fired a case that produced higher pressure, I verify by measuring the diameter of the case head. And there is bolt lift and there is 'pulling ' the bolt back.

F. Guffey
 
It always seems strange to me when a shooter develops a problem suddenly and without warning. One day he shot the rifle without bolt snap and or click and then one day 'there it is'. Does anyone measure the diameter of the case before they start? Does anyone know what effect case head expansion has on case extraction? Does anyone know what normal case head expansion should be? And it is obvious there is no standard.

There was a time .00025" case head expansion was considered case head expansion for factory ammo. Anything above .00025" case head expansion on the first firing was considered hotter than factory loads. And then there are limitations; the reloader has to have the ability to measure the diameter of the case head.

Snap and or click? I know when I have fired a case that produced higher pressure, I verify by measuring the diameter of the case head. And there is bolt lift and there is 'pulling ' the bolt back.

F. Guffey
95% of reloaders can not read a mic consistently to the 0.001" and you expect everyone of them to repeatably and accurately measure a tapered case head to the hundred thousandths?o_O Pure silly talk.....better than the funny papers:).
You keep ramblin' on like a broken record never adding anything tangible to the threads:(.
Note to clueless Guffey- If the case base was oversize before firing -it would have been evident while being chambered by hard or even no bolt closure.
 
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