Bluing - What have got best results with?

[CovertGunny]

I've read a lot of different message boards on the best bluing solution, but it always seems that it ends up with an array of different opinions. I'm hoping someone can guide me on what product/brand they have had the best luck with throughout the years. I've tried Birchwood Casey and some of the midway brands, but I don't seem to ever get what I would consider great results. I was hoping to find possibly some type of concentrate where I would dip whatever in it. Seems to me dipping would be much simpler and much even coating versus applying with an oversized cutip.

 

[ridgeway]

Brownells Oxphoblue. I usually finish and polish the steel prior to bluing. Coat the part with oxphoblue and use steel wool to rub it in.

I get parts coming out like this:

 

[jrm850]

The best blue for larger carbon steel parts is rust bluing. It also happens to require the least amount of equipment, but it takes meticulous metal prep and a lot of work. Do it right and you will have something that you can be proud of. The Mark Lee express#1 claims that you do not need a sweat box so that would be a good place to start.

 

[CovertGunny]

Thanks for the feedback, I'll have to give both of these a go and see what I like.

 

[ridgeway]

The best blue for larger carbon steel parts is rust bluing. It also happens to require the least amount of equipment, but it takes meticulous metal prep and a lot of work. Do it right and you will have something that you can be proud of. The Mark Lee express#1 claims that you do not need a sweat box so that would be a good place to start.

Would you happen to have any pictures of results using the Mark Lee system?

 

[mj2evans]

I wish I had a link but a guy experimented on a AK47 with rust bluing. Its a simple but slow process just requiring carding (rubbing) and a humid environment. The AK was gorgeous when he was done .... too nice for an AK! Laural Mountain seems to be the brand I always heard works well but I have *never* tried the process.

 

[jrm850]

The best blue for larger carbon steel parts is rust bluing. It also happens to require the least amount of equipment, but it takes meticulous metal prep and a lot of work. Do it right and you will have something that you can be proud of. The Mark Lee express#1 claims that you do not need a sweat box so that would be a good place to start.

Would you happen to have any pictures of results using the Mark Lee system?

I did this one 24+ years ago so it has some wear and tear. I used a Mark Lee solution (95% sure) but did it in the traditional way with a warm damp sweat box instead of the propane torch. I was taught by J. Earl Bridges, who was a student of Jerry Fisher's and was my stockmaking instructor in school. This was the first gun I ever built.