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Bipod position

I have a Sinclair bipod on a 308. Should I have it at the end of the stock , or farther back to put more weight out front. Is it possible to get straight back recoil ? I have a Protektor curdura top bag that I Rain x and I waxed the stock with hard floor wax. The gun slides easily on the bag and floormat , but hops pretty good.
 
Try taking a shot without any support from the rear bag, and let it know how the hop situation is. Your rear bag may be too hard. Also, how are you holding the rifle? Some rifles need to be held more firmly because of their stock designs, and the caliber. IMO there is a tendency for shooters to think that their best results will always come from as light a hold as they can manage. I disagree.
 
This is how I do it, others may have their own methods as well....

I have the bi-pod as far out on the stock as possible. I adjust the bi-pod heigth and cant so the reticle is on the X-ring. The rear of the stock sits in an Edgewood Minigator bag. I squeeeze the ears on the bag for the small changes necessary to steer the rifle. I shoot .308 with the 185 LRBT Bergers and when I am in the "zone" with good lighting I can watch the bullets impact into the target at 600 yards. I don't want the stock to slide. I have a fair amount of hold on the rifle into my shoulder. I am not saying the rifle doesn't recoil, but the rifle stays on target, not necesarilly the X-ring. It took me a while to find this position and every once in a while I lose the "zone". I am more straight behind the rifle than at an angle as if I were shooting prone with a sling if this helps.

Good Luck,
Scott
 
Couple additional points as a I reflect on the issue. I use a CenterShot Bi-pod currently, but have had the same results with Sinclair bi-pods (all 3 generations). I use a Harris Bi-pod on some of my hunting rifles too. I have watched the bullet from my .300 RUM impact an oryx bullt as an example of good position and follow through. Design of the bi-pod matters less than position and hold.

Scott
 
How tight of a cheek weld are you using? The cheek weld helps hold the stock down, and prevents the rifle from sliding to the off-side (left for a right handed shooter).

As for where to put the bipod, I'd give shortening up a try. The worst thing that will happen is the rifle will be too light in the rear bag and you'll get some vertical.

I've been shooting 200 hybrids, and they are a gun handling issue. In their recent absence, I've been playing with the 215's. I think I'm going back down in bullet weight. The 215's make gun handling really difficult to do consistently. My loads are good at 600 and give wonderful little groups, but I keep pulling low shots when shooting from the bipod somehow. The bipod jumps up off the ground and does a crazy little dance with the torque. I have all three bipods that I've played with and none of them handles the recoil and torque of the heavies very well.

I'm going out today to play with changing my position again. I really would like to keep the rifle pointed at my target. Last time I shot it, I was seeing the rifle scoot over 2 targets at 600. It is a pain to have to realign the rifle after every shot, so off to practice I go!
 
Busdriver said:
I'm going out today to play with changing my position again. I really would like to keep the rifle pointed at my target. Last time I shot it, I was seeing the rifle scoot over 2 targets at 600. It is a pain to have to realign the rifle after every shot, so off to practice I go!
[br]
I had the same problem when shooting 210 LRBT and 230 Hybrids. The answer is to rotate your body position about the rifle butt toward the direction of muzzle displacement. It does not take much. I shoot 230's at 2500 and do not come off a 1000 yard target.
 
Rodger said:
I have a Sinclair bipod on a 308. Should I have it at the end of the stock , or farther back to put more weight out front. Is it possible to get straight back recoil ? I have a Protektor curdura top bag that I Rain x and I waxed the stock with hard floor wax. The gun slides easily on the bag and floormat , but hops pretty good.
[br]
What stock do you have?
 
I have a Savage 12 Palma , I will try no bag then farther forward on the pod. I was hoping to save bullets if there was a "best practices" method...I got rid of the left right with body position.
 
I just was reading through this and I was wondering if people here think it would be helpful to have a bipod that could be adjusted easy(like a wind age and elevation screw).
 
sleepygator said:
Busdriver said:
I'm going out today to play with changing my position again. I really would like to keep the rifle pointed at my target. Last time I shot it, I was seeing the rifle scoot over 2 targets at 600. It is a pain to have to realign the rifle after every shot, so off to practice I go!
[br]
I had the same problem when shooting 210 LRBT and 230 Hybrids. The answer is to rotate your body position about the rifle butt toward the direction of muzzle displacement. It does not take much. I shoot 230's at 2500 and do not come off a 1000 yard target.

No wonder I've been having problems. I was taught to rotate the body the direction I wanted the muzzle to go. I had a little schedule situation today, but tomorrow morning promises a practice session. I'll give it a try.
 
I've been trying to solve this problem with my LR308. With my R15 I can see bullet impact @ 400 but the 308 jumps hard up/left. Bipod, bags...doesn't matter. I can't really get more left on the stock so I'm at a loss as to how to make it quit jumping.
 
trackmagic said:
I just was reading through this and I was wondering if people here think it would be helpful to have a bipod that could be adjusted easy(like a wind age and elevation screw).

I have a Sinclair with elevation. I use it sometimes, sometimes not. It can be handy and maybe especially for beginners. There is some "slop" in the adjustment, so my technique is to drop below the desired aim point and sneak back up on it. In my limited experience, I prefer the Sinclair over the Harris.
 
Guys, don't get discouraged. This is a tough thing to do. If the rifle moves or slips in your shoulder pocket, this has an effect. Over-gripping the rifle seems nearly as bad as a light grip/free recoil style. I takes some experimenting to make this work but you will know it when you find the "zone". The challenge is to pay attentionto where you are so it can be repeated.

I weighed my F-TR rifle today, 18.0 pounds exactly with scope and bi-pod. A lighter rifle will be harder to control. You can't eliminate recoil, but you can control how the rifle responds or reacts so the recoil doesn't take you off target. I don't imply I return to the X-ring, but I am in the black at 600 or 1000 yards away. When I learned OTC high power, this was described as my natural point of aim when the rifle after firing came to rest as part of follow through while slinged up. This is similar.

I wear a sweatshirt to help with recoil. I also am probably directly behind the rifle in nearly a straight line with the rifle. I do put some cheek pressure on the stock as well, but not a great amount.

Scott
 
I am sure it would help some, but for F-TR weight is an important consideration. If you don't make weight, you can't compete.

Scott
 
ColWhitecakes said:
Will an adjustable butt-plate help any with regards to "tuning" recoil off a bipod?
[br]
I would rather put that weight into a barrel. I have not found adjustable butts an advantage. YMMV
 

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