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Best way to remove and install ejector?

ShtrRdy

Silver $$ Contributor
Is there a "best way" to remove and install the plunger type of ejector? I've only done it once or twice in the past and had a hard time getting the plunger in the right orientation so that the roll pin could pass through.

Thanks -- Todd
 
Is there a "best way" to remove and install the plunger type of ejector? I've only done it once or twice in the past and had a hard time getting the plunger in the right orientation so that the roll pin could pass through.

Thanks -- Todd
What brand of action ?
 
Slightly undersize slave pin to hold everything in line. Hold the bolt in a vise so both hands are free. Hold the service pin in small pliers, pin starter, or hemostats to get it started. You could also buy a tool made for this specific job, but why spend your beer money if you already have the other stuff??
 
Above tool works good. Otherwise it ends up being a 3 handed operation with a spent case. If you have a vise big enough, you can take a spent case, cut it down to about 1/2", clamp it and the bolt in the vise longitudinally and drift it that way. The tool makes life easy though and can be done on a bench block.
 
Is there a "best way" to remove and install the plunger type of ejector? I've only done it once or twice in the past and had a hard time getting the plunger in the right orientation so that the roll pin could pass through.

Thanks -- Todd
For removal, put the bolt nose in a clear sandwich bag. Then use a 1/16" punch (or finishing nail with the point ground flat) to punch the roll pin out. The baggie will contain the ejector, spring and roll pin. To go back in, a 3/64" drill bit works to orient the flat. A cut off case and a c-clamp works to compress the spring.

You might find some accuracy by lightening up the spring tension, too.

Good shootin' -Al
 
For removal, put the bolt nose in a clear sandwich bag. Then use a 1/16" punch (or finishing nail with the point ground flat) to punch the roll pin out. The baggie will contain the ejector, spring and roll pin. To go back in, a 3/64" drill bit works to orient the flat. A cut off case and a c-clamp works to compress the spring.

You might find some accuracy by lightening up the spring tension, too.

Good shootin' -Al
Great idea Al! Something I was wondering ..... does it help to not drive the roll pin all the way out, but rather far enough to get the spring and plunger out, then drive it back in if I'm wanting to do some work with the bolt and action? Like to see how a resized case feels when closing the bolt or finding bullet touch?

How light do people make the ejection spring?
 
I like them so the case just rolls out the side. Depending on the type of shooting, some may want them kicked a bit further out. With a stock 700 spring, a coil and a half off is a good place to start. Once you start getting to where you want, take much smaller bites...about 1/8 of a coil.

There are some aftermarket light springs, too...Holland's, etc. All will need some tweaking.
 
This is easy. I do it all the time.

Set the bolt on some kind of block. A specialized gunsmith style block works well but so would a piece of 2x4. Using a very small punch--and very small is important--drive out the roll pin.

The punch will keep the ejector from coming out. Then put your thumb over the ejector and pull out the punch. The ejector will come out, often the spring stays in and you have to tap it out.

To install, put the spring in and then the ejector, with the slot on the ejector oriented so it will be retained by the roll pin. Take an empty case of the right size, hook the rim under the extractor, then press and hold the case against the ejector. Once you get the case in place against the bolt face you can hold it with one hand.

Then put the roll pin back in and tap it into place. Once the roll pin is past halfway or so it will hold the ejector and spring. Then you can finish with a punch.

It takes about a minute to remove and two minutes to install.

Or else throw the whole action in the tracy and get a CRF M-70, and you probably won't even have to remove the ejector..........
 
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As long as I had an empty case I never had an issue. Yes a bench block makes it nice if you have one at the time.
Some pins have a taper. I have seen gorillas pound them through then, complain about problems. Some pins may have a knurl on them. Make sure to look and drive them out towards the large end of the pin. A good set of pin punches are a must, with a FLAT end on them.
I have taken bolts apart in the field when prairie dog hunting. Buddy kept blowing primers one year. I had my tool kit with me, he had a hard time figure out what I was going to use a piece of heavy fishing string to get his firing pin out of the bolt. He laughed until I showed him, I had to finish the second one as he couldn’t figure it out.
 
The rem tool will not fit a BAT, not sure about the Stiller. I have that exact tool and it fits my Stiller Predator V.

How light do people make the ejection spring? I have a single shot, so I make mine so the spring is not compressed, and I lift it out of the gun by hand.
 

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