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Best case mouth deburring tool

Travis Roberts

So I’m using a cheap RCBS deburring tool and havnt really had issues when loading my 308. Now I’m loading 6.5CM. This is new unfire Lapua brass that I’ve ran through a sinclair expander mandrel die and deburred. When seating my 140 ELD-Ms I’m getting some jacket peel no matter what I do. I’ve tried using more force than normal, less force, and use 0000 steel wool to smooth it out as the tool I use leaves the mouths extremely sharp and rough. Without the steel wool the peeling is worse. Im at a loss other than I need a different deburring tool. What do you guys use for deburring tools? I have a Wilson Case trimmer and have seen the deburring handle for that or the VLD sinclair tool. Just looking for some direction.

PS: If you see a flaw in my process then by all means tell me, I’m open to constructive criticism.
 
Make the case mouth inside edge radiused or rounded. It won't scrape off bullet jacket peeling as you are having. Here's how.

After using the standard deburring tool to clean up most of the inside square edge left by the trimmer, twist a No, 5 Easy Out clockwise in the case mouth flattening that inside sharp edge. Then push a spinning bronze bore brush (in an electric drill) in and out if the case neck a couple times.

The result is a fairly smooth, radiused inside edge. It'll slip over bullet heels without peeling off copper slivers. No more unbalanced bullets.

Do it again after each trim.
 
I have the Redding 25-9 which is adjustable. It work OK but getting the dam pilot into the flash hole drives me nuts. I just googled the Holland one mentioned above and it looks good. I’m likely to get one myself.
 
Sinclair tool (green handle) has worked well for me. I have seated a bullet too deep and pulled them, no jacket damage.
 
Travis Roberts said:
So I’m using a cheap RCBS deburring tool and havnt really had issues when loading my 308. Now I’m loading 6.5CM. This is new unfire Lapua brass that I’ve ran through a sinclair expander mandrel die and deburred. When seating my 140 ELD-Ms I’m getting some jacket peel no matter what I do. I’ve tried using more force than normal, less force, and use 0000 steel wool to smooth it out as the tool I use leaves the mouths extremely sharp and rough. Without the steel wool the peeling is worse. Im at a loss other than I need a different deburring tool. What do you guys use for deburring tools? I have a Wilson Case trimmer and have seen the deburring handle for that or the VLD sinclair tool. Just looking for some direction.

PS: If you see a flaw in my process then by all means tell me, I’m open to constructive criticism.
Click to expand...

i agree too much
Travis Roberts said:
So I’m using a cheap RCBS deburring tool and havnt really had issues when loading my 308. Now I’m loading 6.5CM. This is new unfire Lapua brass that I’ve ran through a sinclair expander mandrel die and deburred. When seating my 140 ELD-Ms I’m getting some jacket peel no matter what I do. I’ve tried using more force than normal, less force, and use 0000 steel wool to smooth it out as the tool I use leaves the mouths extremely sharp and rough. Without the steel wool the peeling is worse. Im at a loss other than I need a different deburring tool. What do you guys use for deburring tools? I have a Wilson Case trimmer and have seen the deburring handle for that or the VLD sinclair tool. Just looking for some direction.

PS: If you see a flaw in my process then by all means tell me, I’m open to constructive criticism.
Click to expand...

something is wrong with you procedure. i think most new reloaders over chamfer and debur. you really just want to remove the burr from trimming and ease the edge of the brass. you certainly don't want to sharpen the mouth of that case to a razors edge. quit using powered chamfer/deburring tools years ago for that very reason. i just use your typical hand deburring tool and smooth it out with a piece of scotchbrite pad.

i would say you need to get a different seating die. one like forsters that captures the bullet and lines it up with the case mouth. sounds like something is not properly lined up.

reducing the neck tension might help but it certainly is not solving the problem.
 
Richard Coody said:
something is wrong with you procedure. i think most new reloaders over chamfer and debur. you really just want to remove the burr from trimming and ease the edge of the brass. you certainly don't want to sharpen the mouth of that case to a razors edge. quit using powered chamfer/deburring tools years ago for that very reason. i just use your typical hand deburring tool and smooth it out with a piece of scotchbrite pad.

i would say you need to get a different seating die. one like forsters that captures the bullet and lines it up with the case mouth. sounds like something is not properly lined up.

reducing the neck tension might help but it certainly is not solving the problem.
Click to expand...
I’m not saying your wrong but I used varying “force” to debur. I’m not using a power tool either.
Using a Redding competition seater die.
 
I use the RCBS case prep center to do several steps in series. Buying the carbide versions of both the internal and external neck chamferring tool was a nice upgrade.
 
I have the K&M tool and it is nice. However, I feel it is overly "sharp" and quickly leaves a very sharp edge if too much pressure is applied. I use the Lyman chamfer tool and it works pretty good for me. "Easy" is the name of the game on pressure. Seems you are over doing it if you are getting sharp and rough case mouths.
 
This is very easy to correct with cast bullet loading techniques.

You can use any or a combination of the following.

1. Use a larger expander diameter.
2. Flare the case mouth with a tapered expander die such as made by LEE.
3. Use a multistep (multi-diameter) expander such as a Lyman M die.
4.if nothing else you can drop a long tapered center punch in a case and tap it to show what is possible at no cost

You still need to break the edge of the case mouth with a deburring tool.
 
I also have been unhappy with my case mouth results from inside/outside chamfer technique.

Without getting crazy about changing my tools, I simply got much more careful and use a "less is more" philosophy. I had been using a power spin method, and frankly, was just being excessive about it.

Now I'm doing a lot less trimming, and a lot less chamfering. jd
 
There was an article in the Bulletin a few years ago about this. It suggested finishing the deburred surface by turning the tool backward.

Seems to work for me with an RCBS VLD chamfer tool. Chamfer is not rough at all and bullets don't get scratched up...

I use very, very little pressure on the cut. I'm just breaking the edge.
 
For the inside of the case mouth, deburring is a bit of a misnomer. Although I do accomplish deburring, I am also chamfering the inside of the case mouth at the same time.

I had difficulty maintaining chamfering depth and case alignment when using a hand held tool. The Wilson deburring tool/stand overcomes both of those problems for me.

I still use the old 'rocket ship' type to debur the outside of the case mouth. I wish I knew a better way of removing the ring that accumulates on the outside of the case mouth when I trip the case.
 
Lately I hear so much concern about "carbon ring build-up", that I'm thinking that using maximum length cases with almost no outer chamfer would be the way to prevent it.

I've got a hunch that most folks who have never accurately measured their chambers are shooting cases waayyy shorter than necessary. jd
 
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