Bedding the action...Easy to do?
- Thread starter davery25
- Start date
shortgrass
Silver $$ Contributor
Glass bedding depends on your skill level and whether you will read and follow the directions that come with the kit. And yes, you can still screw up.
shortgrass
Silver $$ Contributor
You might , unintentionally, glue the metal to the stock. Doesn't pay to try and cut corners. Seems everyone has their favorite release agent. I've been using Brownells in the spray can. The brush on stuff that comes with the kit works good , too, just make sure and get it coated anywhere the bedding material might get to. Also, make sure when you tight the screws you're not putting stress on the action. Personally, I like pillars.
I have more or less followed the procedure at the link below and now have done 3 guns. I used the Devcon plastic steel putty, and Kiwi shoe polish as a release agent.
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
Is it easy? Well I still have yet to achieve a first time perfect success. The most frequent issue is simply not enough Devcon to fill all the voids. The other issue is having some of the Devcon sneak in and around something (like the trigger assembly), and then have it break away when you remove the action from the stock. So I would say two things in addition to following the procedure is to use more Devcon than you think you need, and take off as many parts (like the trigger) as you can so you get a nice clean pull away.
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
Is it easy? Well I still have yet to achieve a first time perfect success. The most frequent issue is simply not enough Devcon to fill all the voids. The other issue is having some of the Devcon sneak in and around something (like the trigger assembly), and then have it break away when you remove the action from the stock. So I would say two things in addition to following the procedure is to use more Devcon than you think you need, and take off as many parts (like the trigger) as you can so you get a nice clean pull away.
go to midway usa web site they have glass bedding kits that have step by step directions hope this helps you out
what kind of groups are you getting with your howa? what kind of group are you looking for? i only ask because glass bedding may or may not improve your accuracy. you might try adjusting the trigger i found a couple instructions for this on thehighroad forums. i would also try cleaning the barrel very very good. i use the technique that varmint al uses jb bore paste followed with kroil. this seems to polish the bore and reduce fouling.
LongRiflesinc
Program it like ya' stole it!
ourway77 said:
Lou,
These are photos of pillar bedding jobs that I've seen on the internet. I offer them for comparison.
Here's a sample of what my pillar bedding looks like:
The skills and resources when doing this work range from dremel tools, a couple tubes of JB weld, and a can of PAM cooking spray to 100K+ CNC equipment, CAD software, sophisticated resin systems, and purpose made mold release agents.
Never mind the 10 years of practice. . .
Good luck on your project.
Chad
So guys with just a blade and dremel can't bed a stock? You don't *need* $100k of equipment to do the job. Your work is nice but similar results can be obtained by a determined guy in his garage (done it ... a few times).
To OP - if you are not a hands on/detail oriented person then yes, you can really screw this up. Good epoxy (Devcon, Mairen-tex, Steelbed) is not cheap and some skill is involved but its doable for the common man.
To OP - if you are not a hands on/detail oriented person then yes, you can really screw this up. Good epoxy (Devcon, Mairen-tex, Steelbed) is not cheap and some skill is involved but its doable for the common man.
LongRiflesinc
Program it like ya' stole it!
Lets see it then. (your stuff)
2nd. I never made a derogatory remark regarding anything or anyone. I simply stated the tools involved range from simple to complex. Sorry if it ruffled your feathers.
2nd. I never made a derogatory remark regarding anything or anyone. I simply stated the tools involved range from simple to complex. Sorry if it ruffled your feathers.
The bedding by long Rifles Inc. is some of the better I have ever seen and about as perfect as you can get.
I will agree it is possible to get results that are nearly as good using simple hand tools, a Dremel and a lot of patience and attention to detail. The biggest difference will be your inletting likely won't be quite as clean and crisp as you see in Long rifles inc's pictures. It does help to have some machine tools to get inletting that looks that good.
If you really take your time and have a steady hand, you can get results that are very effective and also good looking. I don't do too bad myself, though I have the benefit of a milling machine and some other specialized tools, but I still did OK before I acquired these things.
My suggestions: make sure you have enough Devcon (or whatever bedding material you choose) to do two or more rifles, chances are you will need to grind out a bit after the first attempt and redo a bit or even the whole thing. This is OK and is to be expected, and is part of the learning process. You simply grind it out a bit with a Dremel so you can cover the area again, and start fresh. The most important part is roughing up the stock initially so you get good adhesion. That way the base layer sticks well, and if you need to do touch up's, you can rough up what is there and go over it without fear of the base material chipping off. Good release agent is paramount as well. I am still experimenting a bit to see what works best. I have been using the Brownells stuff in the can as well, and have used shoe polish, mink oil, as well as a few others in the past. I like the spray as I feel I get into all the small crevices better. Pam may be worth a shot.
I also suggest avoiding the use of the action screws to fix the action into the stock. It's just not ideal and is very difficult to line up the action properly in the stock and is too easy to compress the bedding too much. A better method is to make studs a few inches long that thread into the screw holes in your action. That way you can line up the action long before you ever contact the bedding, it makes the whole job much easier. And then use surgical tubing or electrical tape to hold the action into the stock. Being very careful not to compress the bedding unevenly.
Another tip is to wrap the barrel with masking tape a few times down a ways from the action, I go about 6" from the recoil lug or a bit farther depending on barrel contour or other variables. This will help center the barrel in the barrel channel so it doesn't end up cocked off to one side. You need to apply just enough so it takes up the "float clearance" present when the action in tightened into the stock. I do this before I start to relieve the inletting for the bedding compound to ensure I have enough tape without having so much the barrel is holding the front of the action up or is not allowing the barrel to fully sit in it's channel.
But most importantly, TAKE YOUR TIME!! If you rush, you will certainly be unhappy with your results. If you want results like Long Rifles Inc., it's going to take a lot of patience and you will likely need to start over at least once. But don't give up because of this! You will earn a very valuable skill that will save you a lot of money and wait time for the smith to do this for you! It is also very rewarding to see the job you did yourself when it finally looks perfect.
Just search around on the net, find all the tutorials and videos you can on the subject and read and watch them all. You will see what works and what doesn't and get a very good idea of the process and will start to feel more comfortable to attempt it yourself.
Good luck
Kenny
I will agree it is possible to get results that are nearly as good using simple hand tools, a Dremel and a lot of patience and attention to detail. The biggest difference will be your inletting likely won't be quite as clean and crisp as you see in Long rifles inc's pictures. It does help to have some machine tools to get inletting that looks that good.
If you really take your time and have a steady hand, you can get results that are very effective and also good looking. I don't do too bad myself, though I have the benefit of a milling machine and some other specialized tools, but I still did OK before I acquired these things.
My suggestions: make sure you have enough Devcon (or whatever bedding material you choose) to do two or more rifles, chances are you will need to grind out a bit after the first attempt and redo a bit or even the whole thing. This is OK and is to be expected, and is part of the learning process. You simply grind it out a bit with a Dremel so you can cover the area again, and start fresh. The most important part is roughing up the stock initially so you get good adhesion. That way the base layer sticks well, and if you need to do touch up's, you can rough up what is there and go over it without fear of the base material chipping off. Good release agent is paramount as well. I am still experimenting a bit to see what works best. I have been using the Brownells stuff in the can as well, and have used shoe polish, mink oil, as well as a few others in the past. I like the spray as I feel I get into all the small crevices better. Pam may be worth a shot.
I also suggest avoiding the use of the action screws to fix the action into the stock. It's just not ideal and is very difficult to line up the action properly in the stock and is too easy to compress the bedding too much. A better method is to make studs a few inches long that thread into the screw holes in your action. That way you can line up the action long before you ever contact the bedding, it makes the whole job much easier. And then use surgical tubing or electrical tape to hold the action into the stock. Being very careful not to compress the bedding unevenly.
Another tip is to wrap the barrel with masking tape a few times down a ways from the action, I go about 6" from the recoil lug or a bit farther depending on barrel contour or other variables. This will help center the barrel in the barrel channel so it doesn't end up cocked off to one side. You need to apply just enough so it takes up the "float clearance" present when the action in tightened into the stock. I do this before I start to relieve the inletting for the bedding compound to ensure I have enough tape without having so much the barrel is holding the front of the action up or is not allowing the barrel to fully sit in it's channel.
But most importantly, TAKE YOUR TIME!! If you rush, you will certainly be unhappy with your results. If you want results like Long Rifles Inc., it's going to take a lot of patience and you will likely need to start over at least once. But don't give up because of this! You will earn a very valuable skill that will save you a lot of money and wait time for the smith to do this for you! It is also very rewarding to see the job you did yourself when it finally looks perfect.
Just search around on the net, find all the tutorials and videos you can on the subject and read and watch them all. You will see what works and what doesn't and get a very good idea of the process and will start to feel more comfortable to attempt it yourself.
Good luck
Kenny
Excellent post Kenny.Lots of information there.I do everything you have stated plus put masking tape down the stock next to the action .It keeps the material off the side of the action and the stock.I also use a degreasing agent to remove any surface oil on the action area before bedding.
While id love to be able to pay to have everthing on my rifles look like the work posted by LongRiflesinc. I simply cant I try to do as much as i can myself to allow funds to go towards what i cannot do myself (chambering, machine work etc) As others have suggested read as much as you can find and watch videos. Id suggest a putty type epoxy i like devon aluminum. I had a smith check my first job to make sure it was sound ( he was nice and didnt comment on appearance) They get easier the more you do. All i have to work with is a dremel drill press and hand tools. Heres my latest one (my 5th or so)
Now that being said id love to see the steps involved in LongRiflesinc's process. Just beautiful work there!
Now that being said id love to see the steps involved in LongRiflesinc's process. Just beautiful work there!
hey guys, thanks a stack for the insight. my howa groups are between .25 to .75 at 100 yds which some say is good but as i dont hunt (only target shoot) im always chasing better results. its generally closer to .75 though. i was just looking for something to take it to .25 more consistantly and most importantly, for something to do. ill post pics as soon as i get started
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