Bedding Job Done! Best way to remove excess MarineTex?

[NETim]

I just separated the action/barrel from the stock (One of the best feelings in the world btw.) Looks like I did a fairly good job for my first ever bedding job.

Now, what's the best way to remove the excess epoxy? I can see using a file here and there but I've got a blob protruding into the trigger well of the stock that might take awhile to remove with a hand file. I'm thinking this might be a job for a Dremel tool. What bit works best for this application? A sanding drum? Carbide burr?

I'd rather not attack this with just a hand file. (I am MIGHTILY relieved that I was able to separate the action from the stock without much trouble though. Kiwi neutral shoe polish must work.)

 

[Bill Score]

Good work on the bed job man. I get just as excited to split them apart every time, better than Christmas to see how the job turned out. For cleaning up the excess bedding, I used to exclusively use a dremel and a straight contour carbide cutter. But, had the dremel grab/jump out and walk over areas where I didn’t want it to. Very, very aggravating and no one to blame but myself. Nowadays, I just use the dremel where I have to and hand file the rest.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

The trick to cleaning up excess epoxy is to do it with a q-tip and paper towel

 

[AlNyhus]

With a Dremel, a sanding drum works better than a cutter. The flex shaft kit for the Dremel makes control a lot easier. -Al

 

[boltfluter]

I removed all the major run over before the bedding sets up. A wet q tip works great.

 

[NETim]

I removed all the major run over before the bedding sets up. A wet q tip works great.

Some epoxy goo managed to sneak past my formidable putty dams into places like the trigger well and the action screw holes. It's not a lot. I'm just looking to make life a little easier for yours truly.

Stock exterior and other places I could see, yes, I cleaned all that up while it was still soft.

 

[6mmcldasher]

Soak it with brake clean

 

[338 dude]

I just separated the action/barrel from the stock (One of the best feelings in the world btw.) Looks like I did a fairly good job for my first ever bedding job.

Now, what's the best way to remove the excess epoxy? I can see using a file here and there but I've got a blob protruding into the trigger well of the stock that might take awhile to remove with a hand file. I'm thinking this might be a job for a Dremel tool. What bit works best for this application? A sanding drum? Carbide burr?

I'd rather not attack this with just a hand file. (I am MIGHTILY relieved that I was able to separate the action from the stock without much trouble though. Kiwi neutral shoe polish must work.)

Dremel

 

[CharlieNC]

A rasp is much more aggressive cutting than a file, and more controlable than a power tool.

 

[AlNyhus]

Some epoxy goo managed to sneak past my formidable putty dams into places like the trigger well and the action screw holes. It's not a lot. I'm just looking to make life a little easier for yours truly.

White plastic-y packing material cut to shape and put in the trigger and magazine areas makes clean up so much easier....epoxy doesn't stick to it.

Those putty 'dams' don't allow the bedding to flow where it naturally wants to, while at the same time letting some epoxy by. The tendency is to use an excessive amount of bedding material, which compounds the problem.

Using guide screws, there won't be more than a thin layer around the pillar I.D. and nothing in the action screw holes themselves....... -Al

 

[AccelR8]

I can't say much from experience with Dremels, I do have one, but I have for many years used pneumatic die grinders and carbide burrs. The danger is when working inside a hole or a slotted area-like a trigger well-it's easy for the teeth of the burr to bite into the material and engage like gear teeth and then the burr runs around inside the slot and does a lot of damage before you can react.

I would say use a sanding drum if you want to use the power tool. Much easier to control.

 

[GenePoole]

As mentioned by most, clean up as much as possible while it is still wet. Then it is a breeze. I like to use an exacto knife for removal of some of the thicker stuff (around the lug e.g.) and a needle file for things like the bolt notch. A small sanding block helps too.

 

[joshb]

Ditto on the Dremel with a Carbide bit or the small sanding drum. Slow and easy.
Maintain a good grip as that sucker keeps trying to get away from you!

 

[epc308]

With a Dremel, a sanding drum works better than a cutter. The flex shaft kit for the Dremel makes control a lot easier. -Al

This ^^^. A few years ago I worked for a guy where I learned a flex shaft for your Dremel changes it from a tool to butcher nearly every job into one you can control.

 

[NETim]

Actually, I've overestimated the hardness of MarineTex. A few minutes' worth of filing with ordinary files I've got on hand cleaned up the excess pretty nicely.

About to re-install the trigger and then I'm done!

Thanks for the replies!!

 

[Bill K]

As you found out, Marine Tex is really easy to work with. A small file or sanding seems to work the best with it. Glad it is working out for you.

 

[AlNyhus]

Actually, I've overestimated the hardness of MarineTex.

After getting everything cleaned up, it's good practice to bolt it right back together for about 48 hrs., no matter what bedding compound is used.

Good shootin' -Al

 

[PatMiles]

With a Dremel, a sanding drum works better than a cutter. The flex shaft kit for the Dremel makes control a lot easier. -Al

Dremel

Ditto on the Dremel with a Carbide bit or the small sanding drum. Slow and easy.
Maintain a good grip as that sucker keeps trying to get away from you!

Put on your big boy pants, use a Foredom...1/3 horsepower!!!

 

[NETim]

What I'm finding unfortunately, is that once the trigger is pinned back on, the action won't seat in the stock.

It appears the bedding is interfering with the bolt release. I need to hog out some bedding material around that area.

I didn't see this one coming.

 

[joshb]

What I'm finding unfortunately, is that once the trigger is pinned back on, the action won't seat in the stock.

It appears the bedding is interfering with the bolt release. I need to hog out some bedding material around that area.

I didn't see this one coming.

Don’t feel bad. I did that.........once!