Bedding Compound

[Sundown]

Is there anything I can use to thin out ,lets say, devon to get it to flow better into all the voids? The devon I got was really thick and doesn't want to flow.

 

[tclaunch]

Devcon Putty may be what you bought, I love it because I can put it where I want it and it stays. Folks who bed then use a milling machine to inlet after will want to use the thinner Devcon product, the liquid.

 

[hpshooter]

I use the putty but heat it under a desk lamp until it reaches 75-80 degrees F. It mixes well and flows well at this temperature.

 

[RonAKA]

Is there anything I can use to thin out ,lets say, devon to get it to flow better into all the voids? The devon I got was really thick and doesn't want to flow.

If you want it to run more, I would use JB Weld Plastic Steel instead.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Marine tex flows better than Devcon putty. You can thin devcon with acetone. Mix the resin and acetone first then add the hardener. Warming the action helps too but, warming epoxy shortens the pot life considerably.

 

[Sundown]

Thanks for the response, helps a lot.

 

[Sniper338]

Marinetex

 

[long40shot]

Where do you guys buy Marine Tex?

 

[Mozella]

Generally speaking, it is NOT a good idea to thin out epoxy products with a solvent. Unlike some resins like polyester, for example, which may be thinned with styrene, epoxies are a completely different family of polymers and thinning them will compromise their physical properties, especially strength.

And you certainly don't want to clean your hands with acetone. It strips the oils from your skin and lets the amines (contained in the epoxy) into your system. Sooner or later you will develop an allergic reaction to epoxy products. You want to delay that moment as long as possible and the best way to do that is to avoid contact, especially breathing the sanding dust. Wear gloves, but if you get epoxy on your skin, clean up with vinegar and hot water followed by soap and water. Works for tools too.

What you want is Devcon 10110 which has the perfect viscosity for bedding.

Marine tex flows better than Devcon putty. You can thin devcon with acetone. Mix the resin and acetone first then add the hardener. Warming the action helps too but, warming epoxy shortens the pot life considerably.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Generally speaking, it is NOT a good idea to thin out epoxy products with a solvent. Unlike some resins like polyester, for example, which may be thinned with styrene, epoxies are a completely different family of polymers and thinning them will compromise their physical properties, especially strength.

And you certainly don't want to clean your hands with acetone. It strips the oils from your skin and lets the amines (contained in the epoxy) into your system. Sooner or later you will develop an allergic reaction to epoxy products. You want to delay that moment as long as possible and the best way to do that is to avoid contact, especially breathing the sanding dust. Wear gloves, but if you get epoxy on your skin, clean up with vinegar and hot water followed by soap and water. Works for tools too.

What you want is Devcon 10110 which has the perfect viscosity for bedding.

I dont disagree, however the thinning info I have came directly from Devcon. I was also assured it will not effect strength or shrinkage.

 

[rpierce]

Devcon 10110 is all i use. It turns out perfect everytime. The pad in front of the recoil lug doesn't touch the barrel contrary to what it looks like. Its just where everything gets taped off. .010 clearance between the pad and barrel.

 

[Liven The Dream]

Pro Bed 2000 is good to work with.

I have bedded many a Rifle and everything listed ............
I found Pro Bed did a wonderful job.

 

[Cigarcop]

Devcon 10110 for me as well..... seems to work fine

 

[JasonT]

Devcon and Marinetex are both excellent products imho - marinetex seems better at flowing around contours without voids, but Devcon is more like a true putty and it cures incredibly hard. I like to use both depending on the type of bedding job it is.

Both have a unique smell too, which I've grown to enjoy, weirdly.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Devcon is fine, my only gripe with it, is it is super abrasive. If your using a mill to clean it up, marinetex helps tool last so much longer. Plus it shrinks a little less. But that isnt all that important because with pillar bedding the main point of contact is only above the pillar anyhow.

 

[long40shot]

Devcon is fine, my only gripe with it, is it is super abrasive. If your using a mill to clean it up, marinetex helps tool last so much longer. Plus it shrinks a little less. But that isnt all that important because with pillar bedding the main point of contact is only above the pillar anyhow.

So, could a guy just install pillars and skip the full bedding job?

 

[BoydAllen]

There are a fair number of workable variations on a "standard" pillar bedding job. I have a friend that has used some pretty unconventional variations that shot well, but he would not have any issue with ripping out bedding and starting over if he did not have confidence in the result. The question is, would you?

 

[long40shot]

The question is, would you?

Well, that's why I'm asking. Has anyone done this with any success?

 

[Alex Wheeler]

So, could a guy just install pillars and skip the full bedding job?

Yes, you could, free float the action body, but bed the lug. I believe its done in rimfire br. I have redone tons of bedding jobs that I wasnt happy with. I really believe in the glued and screwed method. Guaranteed 100% bedding contact every shot. With conventional bedding all we can do is make sure there is not stresses involved. But we can not be sure there is consistent contact between the action and stock every shot.

 

[long40shot]

Yes, you could, free float the action body, but bed the lug. I believe its done in rimfire br. I have redone tons of bedding jobs that I wasnt happy with. I really believe in the glued and screwed method. Guaranteed 100% bedding contact every shot. With conventional bedding all we can do is make sure there is not stresses involved. But we can not be sure there is consistent contact between the action and stock every shot.

I've used the method outlined in Richard Franklin's article. I believe my effort was a success. Is the method he talks about the method you use?