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Bedding checking gauge fixture

AlNyhus

Silver $$ Contributor
This is a pretty clever 3D printed bedding checker made by a talented guy in Iowa. In the past, I've used a magnetic base dial indicator but find this one to be much handier, quicker and more versatile. Having used it for a while now, I'd sure recommend it for anyone wanting to use the dial indicator method for checking bedding. It works on round barrels as well as octagon.


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That’s pretty slick. Thanks Al…cheap too.

How much movement is too much? Obviously we all shoot for perfection but I‘m asking because I had a personal rifle move .005 and it still shoots pretty dang well for a hunting gun. So just curious at what point do you all put it back in the mill and get to grinding out bedding to redo?
 
That’s pretty slick. Thanks Al…cheap too.

How much movement is too much? Obviously we all shoot for perfection but I‘m asking because I had a personal rifle move .005 and it still shoots pretty dang well for a hunting gun. So just curious at what point do you all put it back in the mill and get to grinding out bedding to redo?
Less than .002" as checked, is pretty dang good but zero is better. Lot's of length(leverage there). I'm sure Al has a std to which he works with, though. Done right, there really shouldn't be much or any movement there but it's tough to get absolute zero by that method. Good work Al!
 
That’s pretty slick. Thanks Al…cheap too.

How much movement is too much? Obviously we all shoot for perfection but I‘m asking because I had a personal rifle move .005 and it still shoots pretty dang well for a hunting gun. So just curious at what point do you all put it back in the mill and get to grinding out bedding to redo?
You can induce that if your not careful with the position of the rifle when you check. You dont want to hold the rifle in a position where the action is trying to fall out of the stock or vice versa. In a hunting gun the stock is pretty flimsy with the magazine cut out. .005 is quite a bit, but if its shooting to your expectations then you may not be able to shoot the difference. In my experiance movement in a bedding job is far worse, or things that fight the lugs control. Like screws bearing inside a pillar.
 
On an accuracy build with an action that has very consistent outside dimensions, .0015 movement is the outer limits of acceptable for myself. Most of the time, you can get them to .001 or a smidge below. This is my Mack Bros. single shot done recently:
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On this Model 70 that just got finished up, it started out with .026 movement:
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When it was finished, it ended up having .003...about as good as a Model 70 will ever let you get.
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Much of that is due to the flat area behind the recoil lug, which on Model 70's is never flat. When they mill the threads for the action screw, that thread milling process...since it doesn't cut but rather displaces material...can raise the material around the threaded area. This one had material raised 90 degrees from the threaded hole, as the light cut with a diamond file shows. In the end, I milled .006 off this flat area before it was truly flat. The action screw hole was also not exactly 90 degrees to the flat which resulted in the action screw pulling the receiver down at a few degrees of angle.
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Another thing to be aware of on any receiver is stamped in numbers, etc. It might look neat to see those in reverse in the finished bedding but all they do is cause little stress risers that compromise the bedding job. On Model 70's like this one, I file the area flat to eliminate any raised edges and then fill them with JB Weld and let it set up for 24 hours. Then the final bedding is done. Any little bit of ridges remaining need to be lightly touched with a small flat diamond file to remove any edges. On this Model 70, I checked it just for grins before doing that and it was .007 movement. Just taking care of those ridges brought it to .003.

Another thing to keep in mind when you're checking the bedding with an indicator is the type of action screws you're working with. A flat-to-flat action to pillar screw will 'fall away' quicker than an 82 degree tapered seat screw. I use a lot of the large 82 degree screws and make the seat in the pillars to match them. A quick lapping of the mating surfaces always pays dividends. ;)

If the bottom metal is an 'active' part the bedding...in other words if the action screws tighten against it...the bottom metal/trigger guard needs to be properly bedded to the stock so it doesn't flex when the screws are tightened and transfer that stress to the receiver.

Another thing to remember is that if the barrelled action is excessively tight in the bedding, you can sometimes see very little indicator movement. This does not mean the bedding is stress free...quite the opposite.

For what it's worth. -Al
 
Y’all never cease to amaze at the information you share. I need to go back and measure because I think the time I checked the action was horizontal in a vice being held by the barrel. In short, Alex I think your position comment holds a lot of merit. Again…thanks guys!
 
When you measure stress in the bedding, do you just break the screws loose to release tension, or back the screw out a couple turns? Also, how do you guys hold the rifle to check the stress? Thanks
 
When you measure stress in the bedding, do you just break the screws loose to release tension, or back the screw out a couple turns? Also, how do you guys hold the rifle to check the stress? Thanks
You just crack them one at a time a quarter to half a turn give or take I'd say. That's enough to see if the indicator moves or not. I loosen, snug back up and loosen. Repeat as necessary to see if you have a problem or not. I usually put the rifle vertical or near vertical in a vice with neoprene gunsmith jaw pads but have done it hand holding too. Quite simple in practice. Don't lean the rifle backward where the barreled action will want to pull away from the stock by gravity, you want it neutrally balanced weight wise. When you hand hold it at the action you can feel where it will want to balance vertically and the barrel may not be pointed perfectly straight up. That's the position I put it in the vise.
 
You just crack them one at a time a quarter to half a turn give or take I'd say. That's enough to see if the indicator moves or not. I loosen, snug back up and loosen. Repeat as necessary to see if you have a problem or not. I usually put the rifle vertical or near vertical in a vice with neoprene gunsmith jaw pads but have done it hand holding too. Quite simple in practice. Don't lean the rifle backward where the barreled action will want to pull away from the stock by gravity, you want it neutrally balanced weight wise. When you hand hold it at the action you can feel where it will want to balance vertically and the barrel may not be pointed perfectly straight up. That's the position I put it in the vise.
Okay that makes sense. That’s how I’ve checked before but I wanted to see how others were doing it or if I was missing something.
 
so why not just use a depth mic on square stock on top of the stock and measure before and after.
(its half of what i ded to get my bbl/action square in the very used stock..i measured at 2 points , one fore one aft )
 
So I got one for myself as I suspected I had something going on with my glue and screw Panda in a BR stock. I set it up for zero, cracked the front action screw and ended up with .001 of movement.
 
So I got one for myself as I suspected I had something going on with my glue and screw Panda in a BR stock. I set it up for zero, cracked the front action screw and ended up with .001 of movement.
Jim, our suspicions are confirmed. ;) Good detective work! -Al
 

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