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Bedding a Savage Target Action?

Hey all,
I just put together my first Savage Target Action in 6mmbr. I picked up a stock from Sharp Shooter Supply that has the pillar bedding. When I put the action into the stock the barrel sit off-center of the barrel channel in the stock. My intention was to bed the action, but will this pose a problem when I try to center up the barrel?
I tried doing a search, but came up with the stress free bedding article. This is a very good write-up, but what do I do when the stock already has pillars?
Any one have experience with this? Any write-ups on my particular issues?
Any help, pics, or comments will be greatly appreciated. ;D

Thank you,
B

photo-34.jpg

Barrel off-center when torqued down.
 
I would wrap tape around the barrel until it sits centered in the stock WITHOUT torquing the action screws. I would then put some inlet black on the action and recoil lugs and see where the action is touching the stock and relieve some would from these spots. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7599/Product/INLETTING_BLACK___GOLD

Then I would leave the tape on the barrel and torque the action in and recheck for rubbed spots. Relieve wood again and recheck until no rubs. Take the tape of and re torque, to be sure you have relieved the stressed areas and the barrel is centered. Then bed the gun with tape BACK ON the barrel to keep it centered in the barrel channel until the bedding cures.

George
 
Good advice by Travelor. You want your action hard on the pillars and the barrel centered before you bed, so work with it until you get that. The trigger is easy to take off, and can hang up in the bedding if you don't. Guess why I know...
 
I have a DuraMax stock for a Savage here that does the same thing, and as long as the pillars are in place there is not much you can do other than repositioning the pillars to get it straightened out.. In this case it seems like the action sets square in the stock but the fore-end is warped... Not much wiggle room when the pillars are already in place.
As long as the barrel don't touch the sides of the stock I wouldn't worry about it...
 
Do you think the action screws are forcing the action sideways? If so, you may have to open up the ID of the pillars, to allow the action to center. Are the tops of the pillars contoured for the action, or flat? You may have to adjust if they are contoured.
 
Do you think the action screws are forcing the action sideways? If so, you may have to open up the ID of the pillars, to allow the action to center. Are the tops of the pillars contoured for the action, or flat? You may have to adjust if they are contoured.

Yes, I think that is one of the problems. The pillars are curved to contour the action.

I would wrap tape around the barrel until it sits centered in the stock WITHOUT torquing the action screws. I would then put some inlet black on the action and recoil lugs and see where the action is touching the stock and relieve some would from these spots. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7599/Product/INLETTING_BLACK___GOLD

Then I would leave the tape on the barrel and torque the action in and recheck for rubbed spots. Relieve wood again and recheck until no rubs. Take the tape of and re torque, to be sure you have relieved the stressed areas and the barrel is centered. Then bed the gun with tape BACK ON the barrel to keep it centered in the barrel channel until the bedding cures.

George

I really like this idea thank you.

What if I skim bed leaving the pillars alone? Will the glass bedding crush when torquing the action?
I know, kinda defeats the purpose of the pillars. :P

Thanks for your ideas, my first time ya know ;D
 
Have you thought about calling SSS?

I know SSS doesn't have the easiest customer service, but if the barrel channel on the stock is off-centered to start with, calling SSS might be a soultion.
 
I know SSS doesn't have the easiest customer service, but if the barrel channel on the stock is off-centered to start with, calling SSS might be a soultion

Doesn't look as if the barrel channel is off center. I am thinking it has to do with the action not fitting right with the inlet. I'll have to mess with it after the finish I am applying is done.

Took tooooo long for my to get the stock, no way I'm going to send it back.
 
One thought may be to flatten out the tops of the pillars, or at least increase the radius to see if that gives you the movement to center the action. May also require opening the ID. The author of the article on Stress Free Bedding says he likes flat top pillars best. The final product though should be like the photo in his article where the pillars just show through the bedding in the middle.

beddingfinal.jpg
 
at least increase the radius

Perhaps this is the better plan. The bottom is already flush with the wood so if I increase the radius the action will be able to better fit in the center of the pillar, and a small space will allow bedding material to flow into that opened up portion thus conforming exactly to the action.
 
Here is what I ended up doing.
I welded up some studs to locate the action. One side is 1/4"x28 and one side is 1/4"x20. I found some 1/4" compression cones to center up the studs into the pillars, and used wing nuts to tighten them down.
photo-38.jpg

photo-40.jpg


I opened up the inlet and opened up the radius on the pillars to allow the action to sit without stress when the wingnuts are tightened down.

I then taped it up and dammed off areas that I didn't want glass with model clay. (I used a little too much because some squished into the recoil lug area)
photo-41.jpg


This is how it came out. I think it is ok. The clay that squished into the recoil lug area just blocked off the forward part, but the rear of the recoil lug as well as 90% of the bed of the action is fully skim coated. The center of the pillars contact the action, and the barrel sits straight in the channel.
photo-42.jpg


Thank you every one for all your help and advice! ;D
Now I hope I'll be able to shoot some mean scores at the next mid range F-Class 8)
 

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