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barrel recommendations and cold shots?

What do you think about cold bore shots and cut rifling? Is there an advantage to using cut rifling?

2nd- If I look only for cut rifled barrels the page here list a few but there are some missing, without mentioning any names should I assume the ones on the list are reputable and I should forget about any others?
 
I have found that factory supplied barrels are VERY hard to get to shoot the Cold Clean Barrel shot into the warm/fouled barrel group. The only gun I have with a factory barrel that has done this with from the beginning is a Remington 700PSS in 308. Nothing magic, just one of those flukes. I think there is something associated with the barrel/receiver installation relationship that also helps this to happen.

BUT, I have found that after cleaning, if I use Butch's Gun Oil on the last patch, this helps. Now most of my factory barrels will either shoot into the same group or be at a predictable other position that allows the first shot to go into the group with a known hold-off,such as 1 MOA high and 1 MOA left).

My Krieger barrels all shoot the first shot into the warm/fouled barrel group POI.

Hope this helps.

George
 
I am not a benchrest guy but, I am concerned with accuracy. I am trying to get ready for a sporting rifle match next spring. the shots are up to 750yds with no warm up.
I am using Krigers now but, have 3 blanks in the works from another cut-rifled vendor. I'm concerned about the ones on the way.
There are really 2 cold shots, cold from a previously fouled bore and cold from a clean bore. For me it is very difficult to walk out on the range and hit with even a predictable shot at 400yds plus. I see much closer cold shots when I have shot 2-3 foulers the day before. Any ideas about tightening that first shot?
 
I don't have much experience beyond 100 yards for accuracy. I have noticed excellent first round grouping if after I clean I leave a light coat of Slip 2000 in the barrel and before the first shot the next time I go to the range, I wet the barrel with two wet patches of Slip 2000 then one dry patch. I do this with all my rifles from .204 Ruger to .308,including my bench rest 6PPC and 30BR)and I find the first shot is in the same group as the other 4. I am beginning to think that a consistent wet barrel condition has more to do with a good first shot as the rifling type. Not plugging Slip 2000. I thing other oils would do the same. Just my limited experience and opinion.
 
At first glance it looks like there's something wrong with the crown. Here's an easy way to check -

Go to an art supply store and get a small tube of China White paint. Use this stuff to paint the muzzle end and let it dry. Go to the range and shoot between 20 - 40 rounds. Check the muzzle end for an evenly pointed star. A roundish circle with a few points indicates that the crown edge is not sharp and needs to be recut. An egg shaped circle shows that the crown is bad.

In your photo it appears that the crown is damaged at the area that's missing the star point,s). I'd say that the crown needs recutting.
 
My point exactly. It's a week old.
In 2 weeks time I have received 2 blanks that were cut shorter than I ordered them and a AR10 barrel with a gas port in the wrong location and a bad crown. I'll save the RANT.
 
constructor,

After cleaning your barrel try running a patch wet with Lock Eze through the barrel. Then follow with a dry patch. The Lock Eze has a colloidal graphite suspended in a light oil. The barrel will retain a light coat of graphite thus simulating a dirty bore. Point of impact will be extremely close on the first and subsequent shots. NAPA auto stores carry Lock Eze. I have seen no detrimental effect on barrels using this procedure.

Jim
 
lynn said:
Constructor
Lsten to spotcheck_billy on this one.The pattern should be the same all the way around the crown no cockeyed.
I would take that gun to a local gunsmith in your area and show him the pattern.
Let us know what you find out.
Lynn
I am not a licensed smith, I once did my own work and
my new lathe came in 2 days ago but, it will take me a few days to get it set up and have tools sent to me. I'm out of town doing a job and my home shop is 6 hrs away. I very frustrated with the reputable smiths I've been sending my stuff to while I'm on the road. I closed my store/shop in 95 and my work has kept me from shooting and hunting much since. I'm a little rusty and I'm getting into the competition side of things for the first time. I love the 3 gun and SDM shoots we have locally and thats what has sparked my interest in the new wildcats and all of my work toward improving the AR platforms.
A few friends and I go out and practice the timed unmarked range shooting by seeing how many praire dogs we can hit in 5 minutes. Talk about a blast! That lead me to the 6mmBanshee, it's pretty much a 6mmAR with a 25 degree shoulder so it feeds better and a rim rebated down to the size of a 6.8 so I can use the stronger bolts. I'm waiting anxiously for the 95 sierra.
Next a 6mmBRX in a AR15!
5.56,6.8,BR/AR15,308/AR10 Thanks for the input
 

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Back to the cold shot...

I received a few comments about cleaning my 308 palma gun just before the start of the match.

Comments like: "I have never cleaned my barrel" or "I cleaned it 800 rounds ago...".

The first 5 shots at 800 yards were X X X 10 X,the first ten was of course for score).

Cleaning consisted of some foaming type cleaner that I had to try out. And a dry patch.

The key is the barrel - the barrel is button rifled and CrMo. It has also been heat treated three,3) times.

I think the answer is the quality of the rifling,cut or button), and the heat treatment.

Of course I mentioned the first 5 shots to some guys from Washington,Wranglers...)

Geoff in Oregon
 

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