This is a reply to an older post, but I thought I would bring it up again. If you have the equipment and ability to true up a barrel nut, you should just dump the factory one and build your own. Everything will be centered, and you can start your inside thread cut and take 3 or 4 passes, then finish out with a good tap by hand. Now you have a square and true nut that you can fit to the action OD. I just did one for my Stiller P-1000 large... 1.550 ins. I know it's as true as the action and the threads are clean and true. Use a taper tap, not a plug tap.
Barrel nut..Stiller P-1000 project
- Thread starter madderg
- Start date
Re: Barrel nut..
Why not single point cut it, all the way?
Why not single point cut it, all the way?
Re: Barrel nut..
Yes, the tap will follow the undersized thread. Are the headstock and tailstock in perfect alignment? Few are. As stated above, any misalignment will be magnified. Seems a few more passes with the single point tool would result in a closer fitting, and a closer to square thread to nut face. 10 minutes max as set-up would probably take more time than the cutting.
Yes, the tap will follow the undersized thread. Are the headstock and tailstock in perfect alignment? Few are. As stated above, any misalignment will be magnified. Seems a few more passes with the single point tool would result in a closer fitting, and a closer to square thread to nut face. 10 minutes max as set-up would probably take more time than the cutting.
Re: Barrel nut..
I use a square flat plate in the tail stock, and the threads are very good...as good as they need to be. The action threads are mated to the barrel threads, the face of the nut is perfectly square and the nut threads just tighten the action face and the nut face for a perfect mating. The nut threads are not quit as critical as the barrel and action threads.
I use a square flat plate in the tail stock, and the threads are very good...as good as they need to be. The action threads are mated to the barrel threads, the face of the nut is perfectly square and the nut threads just tighten the action face and the nut face for a perfect mating. The nut threads are not quit as critical as the barrel and action threads.
Re: Barrel nut..
Just my humble + 1 on what Rustystud and Shortgrass have stated,
I suggest you thread a rod to match with the nut, screw it on when the threaded rod is still in the chuck and check the nut shoulder with a dial incicator....Many chances then you decide your nut is just gppd for the scrap bin.
R.G.C
madderg said:
Just my humble + 1 on what Rustystud and Shortgrass have stated,
I suggest you thread a rod to match with the nut, screw it on when the threaded rod is still in the chuck and check the nut shoulder with a dial incicator....Many chances then you decide your nut is just gppd for the scrap bin.
R.G.C
Well this one turned out just fine... the first one I built was many years ago and my older brother helped take it from paper to steel and taught me how. He's passed on now but I think he knew his stuff... he was a master tool and die maker and a master machine engineer out of Chicago and considered on of the best . He used to take ideas others said could not be done, charge an arm and a leg and build them!! He helped design and make carbide reduction systems for extruding steel like tooth paste under hundreds of metric ton pressures... if it wasn't perfect it was a bomb that could take out the machine and the enclosure.
Well, that certainly "out does" me. I'm just a lowly job shop machinist with 35+ years of experience. Got a real nice diploma from a 2 year gunsmithing program, too,,,,,, and I still don't know chit!madderg said:
butchlambert
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shortgrass said:
+1 shortgrass
madderg,
That is the nicest looking barrel nut that I have ever seen. Nice job. Looking forward to seeing the finished rifle. Keep up the good work. 8)
Regards,
Paul
www.boltfluting.com
That is the nicest looking barrel nut that I have ever seen. Nice job. Looking forward to seeing the finished rifle. Keep up the good work. 8)
Regards,
Paul
www.boltfluting.com
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