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Barrel honing question

Hi guys,I know this is very much a rifle forum but lately Ive been getting requests from people about honing shotgun barrels.Its not something Im very familiar with and I hate having to refer people elsewhere but Ive heard in the past that honing shotgun barrels can infact be a very dangerous and sometimes deadly if not done correctly.I see Brownells have all the kit for this process but Id like to hear from the experienced guys if its worth the hassle or indeed if there is any hassle attached to this at all.Thanks.
 
Are you speaking of "back-boring" to increase the internal diameter, or just running the flexible ball type hone in to remove some corrosion?
Anyone asking you to back-bore a barrel, must be way behind the times..almost all 12 gage shotguns have bores larger than the original .729"..
Ruger, Remington, Browning/Winchester, Beretta, etc., etc have bores ranging from .733" to .744", and none of that means beans!
The right load/choke combination and the "shooter" are the secret to breaking more targets, or taking more birds...
I can't imagine a Turkey gun wanting a larger bore, since constriction,choke) and shot patterns are better in a standard .729" bore for denser patterns..
Anyway the cost of back-boring would be darned expensive on an old shotgun barrel..
 
No,Im talking about just honing the barrel for pits,scratches,dullness etc.And Im concerned as to the safety of this.Thanks.
 
I've done a lot of barrels with the hone from Brownells and so far never damaged a barrel doing it.
I suppose if you kept it up until you honed right through the side of a barrel it might not be so good:)
Follow the instructions and use the correct honing oil and you'll have no problems honing out a barrel.........
 
Ive been looking at the kits in Brownells,which ones are the best to use.Theres one thats got 2 spring loaded honing blocks and then theres the flex hone thats got all these little ceramic balls.
 
The Flex hone is the one you need, I use a medium, and a fine..
The other one won't be able to reach unless you come up with a extension
and it still will not do the job of the Flex hone, and it was designed for doing
automotive brake cylinders .....
 
People get in trouble honeing barrels becasue they stop and work one area to long, you gotta keep even steady strokes.

As for the back boring, that is a very cost effective job if you want to improve your groups as well as a lengthened forcing cone, what happens is that you stop the back bore reamer an inch short of your choke and it acts like a very long choke tube and starts to compress the chot cup gradualy, so your shot patteren shtring out of the muzzel more in a line and the pellets dont get slammed together as bad which deformes them and causes fliers.
I've built alot of tactical shotguns for LE and I always backbore them along with the lengthened forcing cone, it helps reduce recoil, and greatly improves their shot pattern with all loads from #6 to slugs, it will allow better groups with a slug while using a modified choke yet still give very tight 10yd patterns with #6's better 30yd patterns with 00 buck, plus you never have to worry about changing choke tubes or having the choke to tight and ripping open a bean bag or ripping out the theads if a slug is shot after the gun has been loaded with highpower birdshot
 

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