I would suggest that you get a tube of this. http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-detail
and an acid flux brush or two from your local hardware store. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290592&cagpspn=pla
You will also need a zip lock bag for the brush and anti seize, to contain any potential mess. The anti seize is very high in solids, so you will want to use the acid brush to work it into the threads so that it is the thinnest coat possible, with no build, just the color, uniformly applied. Because I have seen the solids build up at the shoulder, I wipe that off with my finger, and apply a thin coat of Pro Shot Gold, which is a grease that is also suitable for the backs of bolt lugs, shroud threads, and cocking cams. A film is all that is needed, but if you get a little too much on the barrel shoulder, it will squeeze out when you tighten it. I have used the Pro Shot Gold by itself on for barrel threads with success, but I prefer to use the Permatex the first couple of times, using the brush to apply the least amount required to uniformly coat the threads. If you change barrels often, you may notice that the action threads start to have a build up of the Permatex. When I think that this has happened, I use an old tooth brush and a little mineral spirits to clean the action threads, drying them with paper towels or rags, and then I go back to touching up the Permatex on the next barrel mounted. The most convenient way to apply the Permatex is to clamp the barrel lightly in your barrel vise and rotate it as you work around the threads. If you are concerned with marking the barrel you can line the vise with some of that blue painters' masking tape. I would take if off for torquing the barrel on the action, and substitute paper if you are worried about marks. I bought an individual combination wrench that I keep with my vise, and use a simple system to determine how much to tighten it. I get it as tight as I can with one hand. My benchrest actions are glued in. I change barrels with scopes in place, use a rear entry wrench, one of the ones that Kelblys sells for my Viper. I prefer that style. I use about as much torque as I can apply with my hands even with the ends of the cross bar, standing flat footed beside the stock, without leaning to the side. I apply the force gradually. After mounting a barrel, I check inside the action and clean out any anti seize that may have gotten past the back of the barrel, and run a rag around the barrel action joint to wipe off any excess.
